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2001 boxster s ims

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Old 12-02-2015 | 11:06 AM
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Default 2001 boxster s ims

Looking at a 2001 boxster s with 128000 miles, Ims bearing hasn't been done.want to buy it but am afraid of ims issue.still has original clutch ant thoughts or comments.This will be my first Porsche,they are asking 8500.00 firm.Thanks Jimbo
Old 12-02-2015 | 11:10 AM
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With that many miles, chances are ims is ok. Just have a PPI and get maintenance records.
Old 12-02-2015 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by niche
With that many miles, chances are ims is ok. Just have a PPI and get maintenance records.
This, just add the bearing to your list of parts when you do the clutch in the future.
Old 12-02-2015 | 01:57 PM
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Jim,
Here is a different perspective. The clutch has not got many miles of life remaining. The DMF may also be needing replacement. At that mileage there are several other 'while you are in there' replacements. IMS/RMS is not the only MOF for CEF. There are over 20 others.
Suggest you do some more researching and make sure you have budgeted for the PM. Yes the PM is expensive but not compared to replacing the engine. The Boxster buy-in is cheap but the stay-in can be expensive and the resale value is low compared to repair costs. The best first move is to find a competent,honest Indie. Ask here for references.
Old 12-02-2015 | 07:15 PM
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What do these things mean dog,mof,cef
Old 12-02-2015 | 07:18 PM
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DMF - Dual Mass Flywheel
MOF - Mode of Failure
CEF - I'm not sure about that one.
Old 12-03-2015 | 01:29 PM
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Hi Jim, Having bought a 99 and worked through all the issues, I can give you some advice.

These guys are really invested in the IMS issue and over recommend it. The majority of IMS don't fail. There are two row bearings and singles. Yours is a single based on the age. The singles are weaker and fail more frequently. Even the replacements fail so it isn't like replacing it will solve all your problems forever. It will cost around 2400 to replace the rear seal, bearing and clutch. At 128,000 you will probably need a clutch soon. If you want to be sure, then schedule the replacement of both. If I was doing a PPI on a Box that age, I would do an oil sample and even consider inspecting the oil filter for metal.

There are other things that will go that will be just as significant. The early Boxster convertible roofs were under designed and the pulleys fail. The parts alone for this repair are 2000.

The coolant reservoir is a known issue and it should have been replaced by now with these miles. The plastic gets brittle and fails. The water pump is also fairly weak and should have been replaced by this time. If not, then you will face these repairs very soon. That repair is 2000 all in.

The MAF is lame and it winds up having to be replaced fairly frequently. It is about 200.

The AOS is weak and it has to be replaced sooner or later. I think that one is 450 or so. The PPI can test for vaccuum to see how it is holding up.

The main engine mount is rubber and it will need to be replaced by that mileage. It is about 500.

The suspension drop arms will go by then. It's about 500 to replace them.

The CV boots for the drive shafts need to be inspected. If they are cracked, the joint could be worn. If they have been replaced check fhe records to see what the condition was when they let go. The transmission fluid should have been replaced by now and the records should show it was done.

The serpentine belt should have been replaced. The starter isn't so robust and should have been replaced by now too.

A well sorted Box with those miles and all these projects done should be available for under 10 somewhere. Unless this car is very well cared for, let it go. There are plenty of good examples.

The thing about Porsches is they are incredibly fun to own and drive. An older Box is an excellent choice and I absolutely love mine. You just need to understand that they are engineered for light weight and performance. The parts are a bit more than a throw away car. The good indie mechanics are hard to find. The cars will punish owners who defer maintenance.

You also need to really understand the car mechanically so you know what wear needs to be addressed and when. These cars cannot be maintained at the dealer because their approach will cost too much by far. Find a good indie mechanic. For me, if I didn't have a good indie I literally wouldn't own the car. Also, learn all you can about how to find parts on line and what after market parts can be substituted. Pelican, ECS, Sunset (OEM) are all on line sources you need to know.

Owning a Porsche is like marrying a beauty queen - it's all about careful shopping and good management or you'll get killed! But the upside is incredible. Lol
Old 12-03-2015 | 03:39 PM
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The Boxsters are on the same path of the 944s, etc. As prices get lower more people buy them near the height of their budget without much room to do what is called for. With that many miles and no records of stuff being done along with the prospect of an original clutch I think every Box should be considered a $15K minimum car, no matter what the purchase price is. The one at $8500 might get buy as a sub $13K and have a long happy life or it could turn into a lump in the driveway that's barely worth fixing.
If you are prepared to go the extra 2-5K for a good servicing and have a plan, then seeking out one at the bottom of the price range may be the right car the way I see it because plenty have spent multiples of that and still get a lemon.

Owning a Porsche is like marrying a beauty queen - it's all about careful shopping and good management or you'll get killed! But the upside is incredible. Lol
And they are all crazy, its just a matter to what degree you can live with
Old 12-03-2015 | 08:23 PM
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After reading these posts I wonder why anyone would ever buy a Porsche.if this is all true the maintenance on the car is more than the car is worth and then you still might have an engine that blows up. I am really starting to lean to a BMW Z4. I have been reading every forum for the last week and feel like these porches are just not worth the money or time needed to keep them running. This forum has almost talked me out of buying this boxster even though it seems like a nice car. I don't think everything on these forums is accurate but enough that I am scared to pull the triger.thanks jimbo
Old 12-03-2015 | 08:41 PM
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While the list possible issues is long with older Porsche cars it doesn't mean you're going to end up dealing with all of them. Buying a well maintained car after having a thorough PPI done pays off. I'm on my 5th Porsche in around 11 years and have had no major issues with any of the cars.

Drive a Z4 then drive a Boxster and see which one you enjoy more. Life's too short to worry about what ifs...
Old 12-04-2015 | 03:07 AM
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BMW = Boy Racer

There Is No Subsititute.
Old 12-04-2015 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbo409
After reading these posts I wonder why anyone would ever buy a Porsche.if this is all true the maintenance on the car is more than the car is worth and then you still might have an engine that blows up. I am really starting to lean to a BMW Z4. I have been reading every forum for the last week and feel like these porches are just not worth the money or time needed to keep them running. This forum has almost talked me out of buying this boxster even though it seems like a nice car. I don't think everything on these forums is accurate but enough that I am scared to pull the triger.thanks jimbo
The "list" posted by Larmo is not at all what I have experienced with my 2002 Boxster 2.7l 5-speed.

The car now has over 296K miles on it.

I get around 80K to 100K miles out of the AOS. I've replaced the AOS 3 times now.

The original water pump lasted 172K miles. The original fuel pump lasted around 200K miles. The coolant tank had to be replaced in the 200K to 250K mile range too but I forget the exact miles.

I mis-diagnosed a leaking oil filler tube cap as a bad MAF and replaced the original MAF. Once I correctly id'd the real problem and replaced the cap the replacement MAF lasted around 80K to 100K miles. When this finally went bad I re-installed the original MAF -- which I had saved -- and it is still working fine.

BTW, recently the replacement oil filler tube cap developed a leak and I replaced that. Figure to replace this cap every approx. 100K to 150K miles.

Which reminds me: The fuel cap tether broke. I bought a new cap with a new tether. The cap was not leaking but the seal was cracked and it would have probably started leaking.

What else? The brake and clutch interlock switches have all been replaced.

The top has been (recently) replaced. I finally had to replace the original top when it started leaking. I went with an aftermarket top which cost around $1600 including labor to have fitted. Seems to be a real good quality top. (The factory top even with a discount was priced at around $3200.)

The CV boots finally started showing signs of failing. The tech talked me out of replacing the half-shafts with new ones (expensive!) and instead advised me if not contaminated with dirt -- the boots were still intact but very close to failing -- they can be cleaned, greased and re-used. His experience over the years with Porsche half shafts is they are long lived. I agreed to have him clean, oh and inspect and reuse if he deemed the units reusable. I can't recall the exact mileage these were done but it has to be over 25K miles back and probably more. They are just fine.

The radiators, all hoses, clutch, starter, alternator are all original equipment. And of course so is the IMSB.

The biggest thing was -- I forget the miles but it was way over 200K miles -- the passenger side VarioCam solenoid/actuator had to be replaced. Rather expensive a repair, a bit over $3K, but I had this done like all work before and since done at the dealer. I just don't trust an indy to get this right. The car was in very good condition and I could not replace it for anywhere near the $3K so I went ahead and had the work done.

At the time I told the tech if he believed the condition of cam chain rails warranted replacing the other side to at least renew the rails he had my permission. But upon tear down the wear was not at all a problem -- the problem was internal to the solenoid/actuator (impossible to know which is bad so both are replaced) -- so he advised me to leave the other side alone. He said when (if) the other side VarioCam solenoid/actuator failed that would be the time to replace the rails (which come with the new actuator).

RMS was replaced under warranty at 25K miles. It has been oil tight ever since. At the same time the IMS end flange with the better seal and micro-sealed bolts was installed and it too has been oil tight ever since.

Let's see... Oh yes, a passenger side door lock assembly was replaced, a door switch on the driver side and both window regulators have been replaced. They just wore out.

The factory windshield got a rock chip was after some years finally turned into a glass wide crack so I had the windshield replaced. The replacement has a couple of small chips but no crack. It is pitted too, but I can see out of it just fine, still.

Of course I have keep on schedule with all services. Early on -- at around 4K miles -- I elected to change the oil every 5K miles and have done so every since. The other fluid services are done on the factory schedule. I have the coolant drained and replaced every 4 to 5 years.

The plugs get replaced when due on miles. The coils are original but are going to be replaced next service. The engine misfires a tiny bit upon cold start when it turns damp. However, the engine has not misfired even though we have had some rain off and on over this fall. And the car sits outside in all weather.

Given the miles, nearly 300K, the Boxster has proved to be one heck of a car what I expected a Porsche to be.

If only my 2003 Turbo had been likewise as trouble free...
Old 12-04-2015 | 12:26 PM
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I have owned my Boxster for 21 months

maintenance spent:

Window regulator $200.
60k service $200.
4 oil/filter changes $250.
Waterpump/thermo $350.
Brake pads/fr rotors $285.
Tires $750.
Misc $100.

So without tires, I spent ~$1400 in almost 2 years
It is my DD and I also track and AX the car, and change the oil every 4-5k miles
Old 12-05-2015 | 07:39 AM
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Well the last 2 posts make me feel better.With all the things that go wrong with these cars it is a wonder there are any driving around.I think I am going to get a ppi and if everything seems ok I am going to pull the trigger.The guy I am buying it from is a car nut big time and his cars are immaculate and he also lives about 3 blocks from me in the same subdivision so I doubt he would tell me the car is good if there was something he knew was wrong with it,eems honest.
I have never had a Porsche and for this price I want to at least try it,the way I figure if the car keeps breaking down I can always trade it it even if I loose money at least I tried a Porsche.I have had every other car out there except the jaguar xke.Thanks Jimbo
Old 12-05-2015 | 05:38 PM
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Bought two Boxsters. First one was a '99, second one was a '01S. Aside from routine maintenance, they were trouble free over 5-6 years (exceptions were an O2 sensor which failed at exactly the same mileage as one on my Honda (and the Bosche part for the Porsche was cheaper) and a seat belt issue whose cost was about $170). Which doesn't mean that yours will be. Any car that old is a crap shoot. Parts age and wear out.

People posting to start a thread on forums usually have problems. People who are out driving their cars and enjoying them don't. And you know so much about them because we love the car. I totaled my first and immediately, with all I knew, bought another. I'd buy another in a heartbeat if a mechanic wasn't so far away, I wasn't so old and if I had a place to store it.

Go drive the Z4 and the Boxster. You will know in 2 blocks which you want. (I did within the first block.) Both are on the expensive side to maintain. Set aside some money, do the maintenance on schedule and oil changes twice as frequently.

Don't expect a $100k experience for $10k.

In a car this old, maintenance history matters.


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