how to "test drive" a 1999 that doesn't start...
#16
Race Director
Well, as a 'low ball offer' I suggested that to make it worth my hassle I'd need $2k plus the Boxster for the Benz... It seems like he may go for it after being frustrated with dealing with craigslist flakes and the like. I figure at this price, I can try a few cheaper fixes and if it doesn't work out, slowly part it out over the winter and be on the lookout in the spring. :-) I figure I would probably learn quite a bit about the car in the process, too.
Updates to follow later this week...
Updates to follow later this week...
The Boxster even running is (based on what the NADA site has to offer) worth around $4450 in rough trade in condition.
I would think the Boxster's non-running condition would dis-qualify it for that high a valuation, drop it down to "roller" status and a few years ago the 2.5l cars were going wanting at around $3K as rollers.
Your 2001 E320 comes in at around $4600 for an average trade in condition, for which I believe it would be qualified.
So the other guy gets rid of an older (1999) non-running car with 120K miles on it and gets a newer (2001) lower miles (61K) running M-B -- with the M-B worth more due to it being newer, with lower miles, and in running condition, and pays just $2K in cash.
Sweet deal. For the other guy.
But if you like the deal.
#17
Won't start reason
If the engine spins well you should consider the possibility of gross overheating damage. This will anneal the piston rings n give too low compression for combustion. Starter fluid can support self igniting combustion at 2 to 1 compression so don't get excited at a snort or three using that stuff.
#18
Went back for another look and to try to take codes, play around with a few other things and see how much I really "liked the deal."
My little OBD reader didn't take any codes, but the CEL was on. I'll take the advice of you experienced ones and let this one go, even despite the $ offer, and just start saving a bit here and there for a properly sorted one. A video for anyone interested:
My little OBD reader didn't take any codes, but the CEL was on. I'll take the advice of you experienced ones and let this one go, even despite the $ offer, and just start saving a bit here and there for a properly sorted one. A video for anyone interested:
#19
sounds
As I could best hear, that sounds a lot like a freewheeling engine. A compression check would point to whats wrong, but it will probably be badly expensive regardless.
#20
Race Director
However, the concern by not being able to subject the engine and the car to a thorough used car checkout because the engine doesn't run still exists and to me makes this car only viable as a roller purchase.
While there is the possibility a fuel pump would resurrect the engine and then one would discover everything else is ok it is a roll of the dice.
To me it is a bit troubling the seller has not had the fuel pump replaced as this is not the most expensive job in the world and would turn the car from a roller into a runner and assuming the car in otherwise good condition would have buyers willing to plunk down more money over and above roller money that would more than cover the cost of the fuel pump R&R.
#21
Race Director
Just a head's up for next time. Connect the seat belt and close the door to eliminate the warning chimes so one can hear the engine more clearly.
Also, while I don't think there is much value to this in this case you would want to crank the engine longer, maybe 10 seconds or so. Wait some time -- minutes -- before cranking the engine again to give the starter time to cool down.
Also, while I don't think there is much value to this in this case you would want to crank the engine longer, maybe 10 seconds or so. Wait some time -- minutes -- before cranking the engine again to give the starter time to cool down.