Replacing IMS/RMS - also clutch?
#1
Replacing IMS/RMS - also clutch?
Next week I'm getting the RMS and IMS update done to my 2002 S. I only have 29k miles but my mechanic suggested I replace the clutch anyway since there is no labor costs since they will have it torn down anyway. Clutch kit is ~$900. How long, under normal driving, how many miles should I expect the clutch to last? 50k? 100k?
I don't expect I will have this car for more than 5 yrs/20k miles so I'm hesitant to spend another grand. Suggestions? I'd rather save a grand if I can. Will they be able to tell "wear %" like they can with breaks and tire?
Thanks in advance.
I don't expect I will have this car for more than 5 yrs/20k miles so I'm hesitant to spend another grand. Suggestions? I'd rather save a grand if I can. Will they be able to tell "wear %" like they can with breaks and tire?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Race Director
Next week I'm getting the RMS and IMS update done to my 2002 S. I only have 29k miles but my mechanic suggested I replace the clutch anyway since there is no labor costs since they will have it torn down anyway. Clutch kit is ~$900. How long, under normal driving, how many miles should I expect the clutch to last? 50k? 100k?
I don't expect I will have this car for more than 5 yrs/20k miles so I'm hesitant to spend another grand. Suggestions? I'd rather save a grand if I can. Will they be able to tell "wear %" like they can with breaks and tire?
Thanks in advance.
I don't expect I will have this car for more than 5 yrs/20k miles so I'm hesitant to spend another grand. Suggestions? I'd rather save a grand if I can. Will they be able to tell "wear %" like they can with breaks and tire?
Thanks in advance.
When used in a reasonable manner they can last a long time. I have to mention my base '02 Boxster is on its original clutch and the car has over 280K miles on it.
A fluke? Well, my 03 Turbo was in for an RMS a while back and with 110K miles on its original clutch the friction disc had no measurable wear. The factory manual calls out 1.7mm friction material thickness measured from the friction disc surface to the top of a a rivet head and using my trusty depth micrometer I measured 1.7mm at all rivets. The friction disc looked brand new. (The tech commented on its like new appearance when he removed it after taking out the transmission.)
Oh, the disc has a minimum thickness call out too: 0.3mm IIRC.
IIRC the Boxster clutch has a similar call out for its friction disc. This can be measured and a determination made as to how much friction disc material has been worn away and thus how many more miles are available.
I've been told that friction disc material does not wear linearly so if the disc is worn halfway to the 0.3mm dimension the disc is not half worn out in terms of how many more miles it will go.
Up to you and your tech but if the disc is worn say half way while you might be throwing some clutch life away you could replace it.
However, with an '02 and only 29K miles on the car unless your usage goes up drastically you're looking at another 12 years of driving before you double that 29K miles to 58K miles.
If the disc and the rest of the clutch hardware looks ok -- no signs of overheating or other issues -- and if the disc material is not excessively worn down I'd be tempted to reuse all the hardware, though with a good cleaning and proper lubing of the clutch hardware.
As an aside this is what the tech did with the Turbo and its clutch hardware. However, he did recommend replacing the two needle bearing of a small shaft that the clutch arm pivoted on. He said these were the weak link in the clutch in the Turbo. My point is the tech should advise you if he knows of any similar weak link in the Boxster's clutch, like -- for example -- the release bearing.
When my 02 Boxster was in for a new RMS years ago, back in 2002 with around 25K miles on it, I instructed the tech to clean and lube where Porsche recommended all of the lube points of the clutch hardware. Afterwards the clutch's action felt smoother and has remained smooth and smooth to operate all these years, which I think has contributed to its long service life.
Unlike the Turbo, the tech -- not the same tech -- had no advice/recommendation regarding any weak or trouble areas of the Boxster clutch and nothing in the clutch system was replaced or renewed. Just a cleaning, inspection and whatever lubing, was all that was done.
#5
Another vote for measuring the wear before deciding. I'd price out a release bearing. For around $100 or less it's cheap insurance with free labor.
Also make sure your clutch isn't contaminated with oil, this will eventually lead to slippage.
Also make sure your clutch isn't contaminated with oil, this will eventually lead to slippage.
#6
Drifting
I have a 2001 Boxster S and have just removed the transmission and will drop the engine for repairs so I can send you photos of what to look for in your clutch if you wish. Your mechanic should have no trouble whatsoever in showing you the wear.
One more data point -my car has 90,000 miles and still has the original friction plate,pressure plate and DMF.The DMF is marginal but still functional.All the other components have plenty of life left in them. If you decide to replace your clutch parts ,please let me know -we can make an 'arrangement' via PM/email.
#7
I bought my Boxster S a couple of years ago and it had around 40K miles on it.
I think that the origional and prior owner to me had been a slip the clutch hot rodder.
I am a 75 year old guy and shift at 4500-5000. I try to keep it at 3000 or about when driving. I just replaced the IMS because of worry ;-) , The old bearing was like new, but I mainly did it because of the clutch. If I went above 4000 before shifting the pedal wouldn't come back out from the floor until the rpm had dropped below 4000. I also could feel pulsation on the clutch pedal.
I bit the bullet and replaced the crankshaft seal, pelican IMS bearing kit, flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and both rear chain tenssioners.
I bought the front chain tensioner but the 101 book didn't tell me that I had to have the engine out to replace it. The fingers on the pressure plate were all at different levels from the heat of pushing the pedal and dropping the clutch.
The flywheel rubber center had dissengrated and there was rubber every where in the bell housing.
I apologize for my spelling. I guess that Wayne can't afford a spell checker.
I think that the origional and prior owner to me had been a slip the clutch hot rodder.
I am a 75 year old guy and shift at 4500-5000. I try to keep it at 3000 or about when driving. I just replaced the IMS because of worry ;-) , The old bearing was like new, but I mainly did it because of the clutch. If I went above 4000 before shifting the pedal wouldn't come back out from the floor until the rpm had dropped below 4000. I also could feel pulsation on the clutch pedal.
I bit the bullet and replaced the crankshaft seal, pelican IMS bearing kit, flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and both rear chain tenssioners.
I bought the front chain tensioner but the 101 book didn't tell me that I had to have the engine out to replace it. The fingers on the pressure plate were all at different levels from the heat of pushing the pedal and dropping the clutch.
The flywheel rubber center had dissengrated and there was rubber every where in the bell housing.
I apologize for my spelling. I guess that Wayne can't afford a spell checker.
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#9
Advanced
Partgeek.com has the LUK clutch kits for $391.95 for your car... They are actually SACHS parts and you can even see that in the pics, but it looks like they are out of stock at the moment.
#12
Drifting
Mine is an '01 S. No Luk kit available from Rock Auto (LUK 20-018)
According to the Sachs German Catalog the correct clutch kit for the S is:
SACHS Part # 3000951201-in the E.U.
not the slightly cheaper #K7029001 for U.S. cars on Rock Auto
I have no idea what the difference is ??
https://webcat.zf.com/index.asp?SPR=4
According to the Sachs German Catalog the correct clutch kit for the S is:
SACHS Part # 3000951201-in the E.U.
not the slightly cheaper #K7029001 for U.S. cars on Rock Auto
I have no idea what the difference is ??
https://webcat.zf.com/index.asp?SPR=4