Good morning all,new to the site and my name is Steve,Hate to start my first post with a question but I'm stumped about an issue with my 2000 Boxster as it warms up it starts to chirp like a bird and it gets louder as it heats up,if I'm standing behind the car it comes from the lower right side near the front to mid cylinder area.

Anyone have a clue WTH its doing?

I need help killing off Tweety,please help!

Thanks in advance.

Steve

 

Welcome Steve I would pull off the engine access panel behind the seats & see it your belt or a pulley bearing is going bad.

 

It does sound like a belt/pully issue. How many miles are on the car? If close to 60K, I'd consider checking and possibly replacing the water pump. IIRC, the serpentine belt ususally gets changed at 60K miles too. Even if yours isn't at 60K miles, its potentially original and that makes it nealy 11 years old!

 

Probably the water pump based on the location of the noise. Teh water pump is located low and at the right front (passenger side) of the engine.

There's a trick to determining if the noise is accessory drive related or internal to the engine, or exhaust related.

Remove the serpentine belt. Note its direction of rotation because you want to reinstall the belt so the belt runs the same way as before. If the belt is in need of replacement there is no right or wrong direction. And note the correct routing *before* you remove the belt. Take a pic or make a drawing/sketch.

With the belt removed you can start the cold engine and if the noise is absent, an accessory drive pulley (shaft, bearings) or an idler or tensioner roller bearing is likely the source of the noise. Run the engine only as long as you need to to confirm the noise is no longer present. If the noise appears directly after a cold engine start you shouldn't need to run the engine more than a few seconds. But you can run it up to a minute or so, at idle. (I've even driven a Boxster with no coolant a few blocks from a cold start with no harm done, but don't push your luck if you don't need to).

With the belt off give each accessory drive pulley a strong shake/wiggle test looking for any play, radial or axial. There may not be much play, so you'll have to go around several times trying each drive in turn until you can develop a feel for what's a tight/no shake/wiggle drive and which one's a bit loose, has any play. Any play is the bad one.

Look at the accessory drive pulleys' sides. If either side (though the inside one is the one that gets it based on my experience) shows any sides of being rubbed by the belt's edge, that is the suspect accessory drive. The belt should *not* make contact with any pulley's side. And another clue is if the belt has a sharp edge. If so it is sharp because the belt's been rubbing and this suggests a loose accessory drive shaft/bearing, with a weak tensioner next and a worn idler or tensioner bearing last.

'course check the condition of the belt. The noise may just be a bad belt. There can be tiny cracks across the ribs but no section of any rib should be missing.

Or an idler roller bearing and tensioner roller bearing may be bad. Check for roughness by spinning the rollers, any sign the belt's been rubbing/dragging across the roller and that the tensioner feels like it generates the proper amount of tension.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

The car has 97+ thousand miles on it and unfortunatly who ever owned it before me neglected this little car real bad,the car is at my shop and I'll run thru it all of the pointers givin so far and I'll let you all know something by Monday afternoon.


Thanks All.

Steve

 

Don't know about you car, but welcome!

 

Well guys,I went thru it with the tips givin (Pulley tests and took the belt off and ran the motor for a short period at different rpms)and still no good,I took the right rear tire off and the inner fender well insert to expose ware the sound was coming from with no avail. The sound sounds like chirping metal like the motor is rubbing up against some thing but where its resinating from i'm pretty sure its internal.

Has oil pressure but it gets hot and boils over a bit even though the water pumps is working well and the temp is holding at 180 to 200 degrees.

This car makes my head hurt and forces me to drink,,,,(a lot)

I'm a MOPAR man to the core but wanted this car for my wife to screw around with...

 

[QUOTE=
Has oil pressure but it gets hot and boils over a bit even though the water pumps is working well and the temp is holding at 180 to 200 degrees.

This car makes my head hurt and forces me to drink,,,,(a lot)

I'm a MOPAR man to the core but wanted this car for my wife to screw around with...[/QUOTE]

I'm wondering how you think it's getting hot when the temp guage is at 180-200If you are loosing fluid at that temp you need to upgrade your tank cap. it should be an 04 or later as for the noise it could be your ims bearing in which case you should not drive it anymore. the only real way to check it is to remove trans and flywheel, read up on this link. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ft_Bearing.htm if that's not it. maybe your chain tensioner?

 

How do you know the water pump's working?

Have you confirmed the water pump is working? With serpentine belt in place (and routed correctly!) start the engine and let it idle.

Be prepared to feel around the hoses to/from the water pump and you want to after a while feel one of the hoses get hot as the coolant warms up and the t-stat opens up.

Verify the coolant is actually flowing by checking that the hoses at the radidaters get hot too.

The water pump impeller may be be in pieces or even the shaft may have snapped (but I think you'd detect alot of play at the water pump pulley in this case).

Also, regarding boil over... A common failure is the coolant reservior tank develops a split/crack and when the coolant gets hot and pressure builds this split/crack leaks coolant.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

You may want to check if your sparkplugs are all tight. They make a chripping noise when they start to back out.

 

I cut the hose that feeds the reservoir and put a flow meter on it and it was pushing fluid just fine so I pulled the belt off and no flow but the noise was still there..

It doesn't make the sound until it start warming up,at idle its faint but if you ease the throttle up its still faint but now if you blip/burp the throttle fast its obnoxious..

I pulled the cover off of the ims bearing and it looks to have been replaced some time ago within the last year or so judging by the lesser amount of road grim in that area..

 

Ok. Water pump has been eliminated as the source of the noise. The noise is present when the engine is started and run with the belt removed thus the noise is internal to the engine.

One thing though, can you affect the noise by depressing the clutch pedal? Sometimes with a manual equipped car the clutch disc or transmission input gear sets will rattle a bit and make a noise.

Assuming the above is found to *not* be the case, then you're going to have to locate the source of the noise using probably a mech's stethescope.

Did you drop the oil filter housing and look at the oil and the filter element to see if any debris present? What you don't find or find has some bearing on what you might want to do.

Anyhow, if the noise is under the camshaft cover and not too 'deep' in the engine this suggests the noise is from a noisy zero-lash valve adjuster or possibly a broken valve spring.

The head's camshaft cover has to come off. This can be done with the engine still in the car.

Then you have to remove the cams and check the valve springs, valve stems for play, and the various zero-lash lifters for one that is possibly collapsed or sticking, has too much play/clearance and this allows oil to bleed away too fast.

If the noise is coming from deeper in the engine the engine might have to come out so you can examine/check and possibly replace one or more camchain tensioners.

It depends somewhat on what you find or don't find in the oil. Signs of tensioner o-ring debris, or pieces of the rail guide composite plastic, this points to a possible tensioner or guide problem. No debris...well, let's come to that if we come to that.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

Great info there,its been to busy at my shop for me to take time and examine the filter but looks like I'll have some free time next week to hit it...

I'll be sure to keep you informed of what I find...

Thanks Macster for the info..

BTW,my main profession is motorcycles (NOT HARDLEY ABLESONS) Aprilia,KTM,Victory and all the Jap models to.

 

Good God,This was the issue,The previous mechanic put the #3 spark plug in and it had two crush washers on it WTF?!?!?!?! pulled all the plugs just to be sure and #3 was the only one with 2 washers on it?

Sound is gone and a new reservoir is on its way in....


Thanks all for the input... And thanks FP914....

Steve