RMS leak? My floor looked like the first photo and would leave a few drops every once in a while.

I changed the oil in the car yesterday and I took some photos of the oil. it looks like it may be coming from higher up on the engine on the passenger side. could this be the air/oil separator? The PO changed this about 53k. I bought the car with 56k and changed the oil at 58k. it now has 64k.

2001 Boxster S

I have since cleaned off as much oil as I could and I will track where it comes from.

 

I hope its not he RMS... ive heard of a leak shift linkage leak that has to do with the tranny housing... but I would say you need to keep an eye on it and the oil level right now... hopefully it is coming from higher...

 

The RMS does not scare me, it is the IMS above it that could be leaking that scares me. I leaked less than quart over the last 6 months or so. I am just bummed I cannot do the clutch job myself someday because of this leak. I would not trust myself to put the seal in properly.

 

However is it just me is or is oil sort of red? At first it looked red enough to be automatic transmission fluid but if I'm not mistaken and your sig is correct the car's a manual, right?

Try to check for oil leaks from back of heads and around oil tube filler an other places.

When I took my '02 in for what turned out to be an RMS leak service writer took me back and under car he pointed out areas to check for leaks that would maybe look like an RMS leak but actually come from another area.

Oil leaking from above engine crankshaft area. Oil from oil plugs at back of heads. Oil from oil filler tube. AOS hoses/etc. And oil from power steering system. In fact oil or fluids from just about anywhere. The engine above in front of the RMS area wants to be dry and free of any oil leak signs.

Looks like a fairly heavy leak that the oil is washing away some of the grime/dirt that has accumulated over time.

If you can't find another source of the oil, then RMS (which has to include intermediate shaft o-ring/bolts as a leak source as well) is (are) suspect(s) #1.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

installing a RMS correctly. Not hard to do at all, though of course precautions have to be taken and proper procedure has to be used.

Seals are cheap, too, and if you think you need the practice, buy several and install until you get to an installation you feel is best.

The bore into which the seal fits wants to be clean and burr free. The crankshaft diameter the seal seals against (it seals against the crankcase bore surfaces too of course) wants to be clean and lightly coated with very clean engine oil.

The seal wants to be driven in squarely with a piece of pipe. In some cases I'd use a length of PVC water pipe bought from local plumbing/hardware store. Other times, I'd turn -- had a machine shop and a lathe and mill -- a piece of plastic pipe to just fit the seal being installed.

(You may even be able to purchase a seal installation kit. Been too long since I looked but check out say Snap-On for this.)

Take seal with you and find piece of pipe that is as close to being the same outside diameter as the seal and offers a flat surface the closely matches that of the seal. You want the force used to push the seal into place applied at the outer portion of the seal's face that faces outward, not agains the softer more delicate portion that surrounds the crankshaft.

Lay a large piece of substantial wood over end of pipe and hit the wood in its center while at same time holding wood in place with other hand and steadying the pipe so you start seal square.

Light blows drive the seal home. Do not attempt to drive it home all at once. Check your progress. If seal a little cocked in bore, use pipe and hammer on that side to get seal square again. Take your time.

Another 'trick' is to install the new seal a bit deeper or shallower than the old seal thus the new seal's inner seal diameter seals against 'fresh' unworn crankshaft. I'd not go too crazy here. Too far in is too far in and too far out is well to shallow. Shouldn't be much of a groove worn, but if there is you want to avoid positioning new seal right at wear groove in crankshaft.

The seal wants to go in square and evenly, to restate. **** it too much (as little as possible and ideally not at all is best) and it may not seal right even if you straighten it up.

If you screw up remove new ruined seal, take a few deep breaths, and try again.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

visit a good small machine shop, automotive shop, and see what it would cost to have a piece of plastic pipe turned to fit just right the seal you are going to install.

Ask for suggestions, recommendations. Explain what your doing and see what ideas/suggestions you get.

If you pick the right shop, and have the right attitude, the work might be for free, but I'd offer something, maybe even to buy pizzas for shop (small shop, very small shop...).

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

It's just an engine...

 

Thanks for all the info Macster! I am hoping the Clutch / oil leak does not go south in the next 6 months or so. I have started building a house that has a pit in the garage. Under the car work will get much quicker to do. maybe I will do my own RMS someday afterall.

it is a 6-speed. In the coming weeks I will jack it up again and take the engine cover off the top and check it for leaks. I changed the spark plugs on it's 60k service and they looked fine. (no leaking from there)

just and engine.....what's the worst that could happen.....??

 

tha's a RMS issue. welcome to the club ! Might as well do the lower shaft seal too. Dealer had to do mine twice because the first time the did not use the updated RMS tool and it leaked within 2k miles.

Tom

 

Looks like it also needs the updated case bolts.

 

Um... you can make a cool coffee table?

 

The service records show the RMS was done at 22k when the first owner had the car. I guess if it lasts another 5 years on the next seal I should be fine.

 

Should this keep me from driving in any way? I plan on putting ~6k on the car in the next 6 months or so.

 

continue driving the car. As I mentioned the leak seems rather heavy.

Do not know where you live, but you might 'tighten' the oil leak up a bit by going to a heavier oil. Say if you're running 0w-40 switching to a quality 5w-50 (Castrol I think offers this) or even Mobil 1 15w-50. Even fresh Mobil 1 0w-40 is better than oil with miles/time on it.

I'd not go to too thick of oil and risk failure of engine to lubrication for the sake of reducing an RMS oil leak's flow though. Use caution.

Keep an eye on the oil's travels. If it gets heavy enough to get on suspension/drivetrain bushings the oil can rot these and when you replace RMS/ intermediate shaft o-ring/bolts you'll have to replace the bushings ruined by the oil.

If oil flow gets on clutch/flywheel... trouble.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

I just put in 8 new quarts of Mobil 1 0w-40. I will keep an eye on the level. I am in Kentucky. Weather is getting down to 40 in the garage but that is about it.