Another hunting idle question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Another hunting idle question
Hello all, I know hunting idles have been discussed in previous forums, I went through them but didn't find anything exactly like the symptoms I have. I have a lower mileage '99, 35k. Idle with drop down to 200-400 rpms when the AC is kicked on. Often rpms drop so low that the clutch will shudder a little. After a few 'bobs' on the tack idle will stabilize and things will be fine. This also will happen when car is hot, coming down from higher RPMs's, though not as severe as start-up. I'm wondering if this idle issue is sensor related or possibly because of a dirty throttlebody? I have cleaned the tb with carb cleaner on a clean rag but haven't pulled it off and thoroughly gone through it. cleaning did little to stabilize the idle. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Ben
Ben
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did the plugs about 8k ago. I had a look at the airfilter last week and it was in good order. The throttlebody didn't look bad to me when I cleaned it. I couldn't look too far in as I didn't take it off the car. I don't have much experience here and don't know what a 'dirty' tb would look like. Just some light black on the rag after cleaning. I might be way off track, but could there be any kind of varnish built up inside? The PO only drove the car 5k miles in his 5 years of ownership. could this be a possibility? The car had a little hunting idle when I bought it. The dealership did a PPI and diagnostics were all clean. Hastn't been on the machine since. Thanks Brad.
BG
BG
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No check engine light. I'll be purchasing a diagnostic tool shortly to wipe out an airbag warning light. (seatbelts..). will the durametric reader handle this diagnostic?
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, looks like I'll have to go run some diagnostics. I'll repost when I've got some more information. I'll be ordering the reader unless anyone in the Austin area has one available??? There would be a free case of beer involved!
Ben
Ben
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#8
Drifting
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Another Ex pat Brit in SoCal
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Just a personal observation - just because the air filter looks ok, doesn't mean that it isn't restricting air flow.
I swapped out a good looking filter on my 996 and was amazed at the difference this made at idle - replaced with a stock filter of course.
I swapped out a good looking filter on my 996 and was amazed at the difference this made at idle - replaced with a stock filter of course.
#9
Race Car
I am assuming since it is a 99 that it is NOT EGAS and therefore you should remove the ICV from the side of the throtlebody and spray it clean with carb cleaner. Take a toothpck and make sure the window pivots freely.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by BPG_Austin
No check engine light. I'll be purchasing a diagnostic tool shortly to wipe out an airbag warning light. (seatbelts..). will the durametric reader handle this diagnostic?
BTW, if you end up needing an ICV for a '99, I have one I bought on accident that I'd be happy to send over for 1/2 the dealer's price to get it out of the drawer.
#11
Racer
That is simply not true. The Durametric gives you all the 'live' data, fuel trims, o2 readings, maf, voltage and air flow etc. Yes you can only stream 8 at a time but they are all available.
Check out their site, if you have a late model porsche it is the tool to own short of buying a PST2.
Also short of the factory tester, I know of no other tool that will allow you to reset the air bag light.
Todd
Check out their site, if you have a late model porsche it is the tool to own short of buying a PST2.
Also short of the factory tester, I know of no other tool that will allow you to reset the air bag light.
Todd
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/bgicvalve_copy1.jpg
Ok, first time posting a picture. I couldn't figure out how to post both, so bear with me, I'll post the other in a seperate reply. Here's the idle control valve after I cleaned it iwht some carb cleaner and a Q-tip. It was dirty and did not move smoothly. Lots of crud buildup came out, wow. After the cleaning she opened up smoothly. couldn't get all the dirt out, but most. The thottlebody was pulled off and cleaned as well. It didn't look awful except the upper areas where the idle control valve and the other butterfly-mounted valve sat. This area required a bit more work to clean out. Picture was taken before this area was finished. Put her all back together with good results! Idle does drop a bit when AC is kicked on but nothing like before. From several very helpful PM's this appears to be within normal Boxster specs. The clutch no longer flutters and rpms stay above 550-600. Idle has increased about 100 rpms. Thank you all for the help. Greatly appreciated! Oh, and for anyone who would like to do the above work it only took 2 hours or so at my slow pace. An easy and fun job.
Ben
Ok, first time posting a picture. I couldn't figure out how to post both, so bear with me, I'll post the other in a seperate reply. Here's the idle control valve after I cleaned it iwht some carb cleaner and a Q-tip. It was dirty and did not move smoothly. Lots of crud buildup came out, wow. After the cleaning she opened up smoothly. couldn't get all the dirt out, but most. The thottlebody was pulled off and cleaned as well. It didn't look awful except the upper areas where the idle control valve and the other butterfly-mounted valve sat. This area required a bit more work to clean out. Picture was taken before this area was finished. Put her all back together with good results! Idle does drop a bit when AC is kicked on but nothing like before. From several very helpful PM's this appears to be within normal Boxster specs. The clutch no longer flutters and rpms stay above 550-600. Idle has increased about 100 rpms. Thank you all for the help. Greatly appreciated! Oh, and for anyone who would like to do the above work it only took 2 hours or so at my slow pace. An easy and fun job.
Ben
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter