whenever I turn, or the car sways, goes over speed bumps, etc. the front of the car creeks like an old wooden ship.. is this most likely a bad CV joint?

 

most likely a lower cotrol arm, the ball joint gets dryed out and creaky, lay down and stick you hand under the car and onto the lower control arm have someone bounce the car you should be able to feel it in the lowercontrol arm they are about 650$ for each side so figure out what side it is

 

ugh. there are adjustable control arms which are $650, and control arm links which are around $300.. what's the difference?

thanks.

 

Didnt know they made adjustabls for the Boxster, great. Maybe that will fix what the dealer wont admit to. That is they tweaked something when they pulled the tiptronic for the rear main seal replacement. I had perfect tire wear before for over 50 thousand miles. Now the inside of both rears are wearing after 6K, 3/32 difference. They checked the alignment and assured me it was in the green, specified range.

 

ITS THE LOWERLINK THAT RUNS PERPINDICULAR TO THE CAR. I BELIVE PORSCHE CALLS IT A TRAILING LINK, ITS THE ONE WITH THE BAL JOINT IN TI AND ITS ABOUT 600-700$ a side

TURBOFLYER.................. THERES NOT REALL THAT MUCH TO TWEAK BACK THERE ESPECAILLY JUST BY TAKING A TRANS OUT, I HAVE HEARD YOUR SAME COMPLAINT BEFORE THOUGH
AFTER TRANS/ENGINE REPLACEMENT UNEVEN TIRE WEAR, IVE NEEVR ACTUALLY SEEN IT BUT IVE HEARD OF IT, AND I THINK IT WOULD BE AN EASY FIX.
YOU WILL NEED SUPPORT THE VECHILE BY THE LIFT POINTS TO DROP THE STEEL PAN, LOSTEN THE 4 13S THAT HOLD THE TRANSMOUNTS USE A JACK TO UNLOAD THE WEIGHT OF THE TRANS FROM THE CHASSIS, NOW TIGHTEN THE 13S BACK UP.
IT SHOUDDNT CHANGE ALIGMNET SEPCS BUT IT SHOULD CURE YOUR PROBLEM
TO THE CHASSIS.

 

I'd rather replace both sides just to be safe.... but it's $700 per side? so with install, about $1600... aaayyy...

 

I have a couple more questions.. to replace the control arms, apparently there's a top and bottom control arm for the front left and the front right.. so a total of 4 arms in the front? does anyone have a link of how this looks?

 

I had the same problem. My "fix" was easy. Jack the corner up high enough to reach the lower ball joint. (Taking the wheel off is not necessary but makes access a little easier. Ball joint is located at the very bottom of the suspension arm.) Note the black rubber bellow. Odds are there is a tear or hole in it already. Feel around the perimeter to find it. If there isn't a hole, use an awl or Philips head to create a tiny hole. Now ideally, you should get a can of rubber-compatible spray lube (silicone-based, etc) from the auto parts store, however I just used plain old motor oil. Whatever you use, poke the tip of the squirter into the hole and fill it up until it overflows. Done.

 

Good idea. I'm going to see if my 928 ball joint boots fit the Boxster. If so, this could become a $20 fix for both sides.

 

OK, I am not to sure how this will cure my problem if it docent change the alignment specs. BTW just replaced both rear tires, worn so bad on the inside that one was almost separating. Geeeez cant believe the dealer insist the thing is within specs. I can just look at the rear and see it looks like excessive camber and to top it off not the same on both tires. I think I could do a better job with string and a straight edge. What do you think. Getting frustrated. I remember someone else going back many times only to find out the dealers rack was out of calibration. You know sometimes things have to make sense when you look at them regardless what the book or machine says.

 

Turboflyer:

Go to a place that uses the latest Hunter alignment machines. You can find them on the Hunter website. Theirs has the correct specs and is computer calibrated. Plus you can probably get a good alignment for around $60. Mine has been aligned well by the local Kauffman tire for the time I've had it at $59 each time, once a year. Tires wear well front and rear, about 30K miles on a set of Kumho ASX.

 

94twin, I will definitely give this a shot. I really appreciate the help. thanks!!

 

If your in UK or europe DONT put a hole in the ball joint rubber gaitor you will have an mot failure next time your car goes for the test! Why? well the rubber boot is considered a safety item it's there for a purpose, to keep the grease in and dust and grit out!!! Repack the joint and replace the boot is the minimum way you should approach this and that's if the ball joint is still in serviceable condition! Now does anyone know if a replacement ball joint and proceedure exisits?