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99 Boxster Rear Suspension noises

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Old 05-06-2021 | 11:18 AM
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Default 99 Boxster Rear Suspension noises

Hi all,

I have a '99 Boxster with about 90k miles

After sitting for the winter, the car has started making noises in the rear suspension that it didn't make last year.

When driving, it sounds like creaking and rattling, and is worse after driving. Pushing and pulling up on the rear replicates the noise, and again, is much worse after driving. The struts *seem* ok, as there is decent bounce-back, but I know that isn't the only factor in diagnosing an issue. I also plan to grease all bushings asap to see if that might alleviate anything, but we'll see.

I have attached a video that shows the sounds coming from the rear left and rear right after a 45 minute drive. The sounds are similar, but not exactly the same.

If you could check out the video and share your opinion, I would appreciate it!

Old 05-06-2021 | 11:56 AM
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control arms
Old 05-06-2021 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by stl_986
control arms
Is it typical that the control arms need replacing? Or just bushings/ball joints?
Old 05-06-2021 | 12:38 PM
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replace the arm, they are cheap. Anything with rubber is going to need to be replaced sooner or later.
Old 05-06-2021 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by stl_986
replace the arm, they are cheap. Anything with rubber is going to need to be replaced sooner or later.
Good Point.

So, Rockauto has "rear lower" and "rear lower rearward" - are one of these the usual culprit? Or would you recommend doing both? (see circled items)


Old 05-06-2021 | 07:14 PM
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It's usually just the lower one.

What you can do spray some PB plaster on 1 set of bushings at a time. Take it for a spin and see if the noise goes away. If it does you find the part that needs to be replaced. If not, move to the next bushing. Only do 1 at a time though so you can figure out which one is doing it. That noise is either the ball joint (very likely) or the rubber bushing.

The other method is to have someone pushing down on the car while you are close to the sound listening. Not as easy to do. Gopro can be your ears also.
Old 05-06-2021 | 08:00 PM
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Or, if your budget allows and you plan on keeping your ride for a couple years, you can replace all 3 parts. They'll all need it soon if they don't already ( my '01 Box with 110K miles did). It's not hard to do or incredibly time consuming.

You'll need to replace your sway bar links too sometime if you haven't. They can be done later if you don't want to spend the extra hundie.

If your struts have over 50K consider swapping them out. These are a bit more spendy.

Its cheaper than new car payments!
Old 05-06-2021 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by brianmch
If your struts have over 50K consider swapping them out. These are a bit more spendy.
This is correct. Your struts are probably done, and Boxster struts are stupidly expensive. The lowest priced name brand I've found is Koni Reds, at about $700 a set.
Old 05-06-2021 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn Stanford
This is correct. Your struts are probably done, and Boxster struts are stupidly expensive. The lowest priced name brand I've found is Koni Reds, at about $700 a set.
Speaking of which: Pelican is having a 20% off sale on Koni struts.
Old 05-07-2021 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by stl_986
It's usually just the lower one.

What you can do spray some PB plaster on 1 set of bushings at a time. Take it for a spin and see if the noise goes away. If it does you find the part that needs to be replaced. If not, move to the next bushing. Only do 1 at a time though so you can figure out which one is doing it. That noise is either the ball joint (very likely) or the rubber bushing.

The other method is to have someone pushing down on the car while you are close to the sound listening. Not as easy to do. Gopro can be your ears also.
I will definitely try this first to try and pinpoint my issue
Old 05-07-2021 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by brianmch
Or, if your budget allows and you plan on keeping your ride for a couple years, you can replace all 3 parts. They'll all need it soon if they don't already ( my '01 Box with 110K miles did). It's not hard to do or incredibly time consuming.

You'll need to replace your sway bar links too sometime if you haven't. They can be done later if you don't want to spend the extra hundie.

If your struts have over 50K consider swapping them out. These are a bit more spendy.

Its cheaper than new car payments!
When you say "all three parts" what exactly are you referring to? lower and rearward control arms and struts?
Old 05-07-2021 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Shawn Stanford
This is correct. Your struts are probably done, and Boxster struts are stupidly expensive. The lowest priced name brand I've found is Koni Reds, at about $700 a set.
They could be - they sound *juicy* (if that makes sense) when pushing up and down on the rear - after the car has been sitting. After a drive, then you hear the noise in the video.

Rockauto has Bilsteins for 190 a side so might go that route eventually.

Old 05-07-2021 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Sal Ricci
When you say "all three parts" what exactly are you referring to? lower and rearward control arms and struts?
Coffin arm, control arm link (has ball joint), and track arm (lacks ball joint, forked on one end), identified specifically in photo below. RMEuropean has rear Bilstein B4's for $222/e or the better B6's for $218/e. I replaced front stock B4's with B6's and it tidied things up quite a bit. Also need the shock bearing plates, and shock mount. If you decide to do the struts later you'll obviously have to take apart much of what you just did or paid to have done. It's not a hard job if you're slightly mechanically inclined and have the space and time.



Old 05-07-2021 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by brianmch
Coffin arm, control arm link (has ball joint), and track arm (lacks ball joint, forked on one end), identified specifically in photo below. RMEuropean has rear Bilstein B4's for $222/e or the better B6's for $218/e. I replaced front stock B4's with B6's and it tidied things up quite a bit. Also need the shock bearing plates, and shock mount. If you decide to do the struts later you'll obviously have to take apart much of what you just did or paid to have done. It's not a hard job if you're slightly mechanically inclined and have the space and time.
Gotcha - thanks for this information!

I am going to investigate further next week when I have some nice weather. I appreciate your help. (And everyone else of course!)
Old 05-07-2021 | 12:10 PM
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For the record: there isn't a _push_ on this. I was in the same place the last couple years. It sorta sucked to drop all that jingle on some non-racy suspension bits but on this side a few weeks after a recent HPDE it was worth it.



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