Sam7768

I am first time Porsche owner and with all the excitement of self service, got the boxster on to ramps (8").

So, the height at the front (or back) from the ground, went up to about 14". I could barely fit in my head. there is no room to wriggle hands, forget about tools.

How are you guys changing oils using ramps? What am I doing wrong? (no, I am not fat head, and I weigh 170 pounds, medium built).

I cannot afford lifts due to budget and garage space issue.

Unless I can take the height to 24" or 25", I think I cannot do oil changes or inspect the car underneath.

Any ideas, tips, suggestions on how you guys are able to change oils in Boxster 986 using ramps?

Thanks much,

Sam

Brian in Tucson

I have a set of lifts, I know they're expensive. The answer is, of course, you can't do anything under there with just ramps. You need to get it higher and use jackstands with rubber pads (to save the paint on the jack points.) I put mine up on the ramps, then use a large, mine is air assist, bottle jack to lift the back of the car. Use the jack point on the rear most point where the diagonal braces connect. Then put it on a jackstand. Put the bottle jack on a couple of 2x6 pads, and repeat the process til you get it high enough. Do not go under the car without jackstands and the front wheels chocked (more 2x6 pads). I've had mine roll off the jackstands, not while I was under the car fortunately. Nice if you have a helper around when you work under there, I don't. But anytime any part of you is under a car, your cell phone should be within reach to call for help if needed.

The Quick Jack lifts are vastly superior. You can lift all 4 wheels at once and the lift is incredibly stable. Gonna get mine out to work on my VW New Beetle Turbo, convertible. Actually looking forward to doing the brake jobs.

melzap

As stated by Brian above: quick jack does the job.

BillC3

Another option is to get two pairs of wheel cribs and jack the car up at both ends. I use the 10" RaceRamp wheel cribs, and my car is high enough to change the oil. Here's an example:

However, you need to put both ends of the car up. The car is designed to be level during oil changes and you won't get everything out if it isn't. Plus, there won't be enough room underneath if the front is still on the ground.

Another trick is to put down a large sheet of corrugated cardboard, like from a kitchen appliance box or large shipping box. The cardboard makes it easy to slide under the car, keeps you cleaner than just lying directly on the ground, and saves a couple of inches of height over using a mechanic's creeper.

Starter986

I use ESCO stands... and I'm able to get under for an oil change when they're set on first pegged rung. Have done the water pump... MM... plugs... coils... all with the ESCOs. All on the first pegged rung.

Be safe, but keep it simple. Don't overthink it.

Macster

Gosh when I changed the oil in my Porsche cars I weighed a bit more than 170lbs and am probably considered medium build and I don't recall any issues with any of my Porsche cars on ramps. Rhino Ramps. The Boxster and Cayman engines were close enough to the rear wheels that there is considerable room. (The Turbo engine being behind the rear axle was quite easy to work on to drain the oil.)

I'm sure I didn't work directly underneath the oil sump or the filter housing but worked off to one side. The oil drain catch pan was under the sump plate when draining the oil then when time to remove the filter housing was moved under the housing.

I used a large piece of cardboard between me and the concrete. I wore heavy one piece denim overalls which would stand up to the wear and tear and let me move around with relative ease.

Wore a Navy watch cap to keep my hair of my eyes.

I could fit under the car well enough to inspect about half the length of the car's underside. The front of the car I had to check from laying down along side the car or in the front of the car.

Sam7768

I like the Cribs concept. Thank you BillC3!!!

kevsgone

I have used ramps for years to do oil changes and I haven't seen 170ilbs in 3 decades. The trick is to find a slope, put the ramps on a downhill slope where the car will be level when it is sitting on the ramps. Then back the car onto them, very easy straight forward and lots of room to work. I've been lucky that both my homes have had sloped driveways that work great for this.

Kooter1956

same issue early on, I cut a 36 inch length of 2x6 and cut a 15 inch length and screwed it on one end. I use that as a ramp, so I could get my Jack under the motor support. Once jacked up I placed my stands on the Jack points, then used my wooden ramps under the jack and repeated. Presto plenty of room
hope this helps

TEF

Rather than jack stands or ramps, I constructed (from new and old 2x4's) four pads (one per wheel). Each is 16" w x 12" d x 4.5" h. They easily support the weight of my BS and even a heavier BMW 5 series sedan. Once on these pads, the car sits level and one can easily reach the drain plug and filter. For me, these pads have proved quicker and easier than jack stands and much more secure. I doubt that all four cost more than $15 in materials.