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Hey all, I felt like doing a little write-up about my car (2000 Boxster S w/ 6-speed manual). I bought it in July of last year and haven't bothered doing this yet; but today I just finished a pretty extensive detailing on it and figured it was about time to catalogue some of this stuff.
I bought it with 60,000 miles on it in July for an even $9000 from an older gentleman who had just bought a newer-model Cayman S. He was the third owner, and had owned it for about 12 years. I traveled 500 miles from home to go get it and drive it back. Arctic silver exterior, black interior (my personal favorite color combo for this car). Pictures in the spoiler below.
Spoiler
Only a few major things had already been done when I bought the car:
Coolant tank and CV joints rebuilt (April 2013 @ 52,000mi)
Water pump (January 2016 @ 56,000mi)
I've done several more things since I got it. It's all been elective maintenance so far. I do all the work myself, so all the prices are what I paid for parts only. I also haven't done a good job of recording the exact mileage and date when I work on it, oops
July 2018
Brake pads - $215
Rotors - $178
Tires - $505
Spark plugs - $40
Oil & filter change - $75
Center console hinge repair - $27
Rear trunk lid badge - $40 (One of the previous owners removed it, apparently they preferred it that way. Bought a used one and plastidipped it black)
October 2018
New convertible top w/ glass window - $569 (The old one was in decent shape except for the infamous hazy line through the middle of the plastic window, despite multiple Plexus applications. I would have lived with it for a while longer, except that I botched an attempt to clear up the window. I have to say, though, I think the glass window looks a million times better)
January 2019
Clutch disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing - $367
DMF - $340
Rear main seal - $30
Clutch slave cylinder - $38
IMS solution retrofit kit - $668
Exhaust gaskets - $16
GBox detent - $216
Front motor mount - $120
Gearbox oil - $52
Oil & filter - $75
There's a good chance I forgot a few things, but all the major stuff is there. Totals up to $3,571.
To-do:
Fix foam crap blowing from air vents
Investigate loss of coolant (Rear trunk is a bit damp and smells of antifreeze. I top it off with distilled water about once a month. Most likely the coolant tank...AGAIN)
Custom lightweight "battery" (I'll post more details when I actually get serious with this project )
Repaint brake calipers
Fabspeed exhaust system
997 air intake upgrades
Thanks for checking out my car I'll be happy to answer any questions
Last edited by BRC; 02-17-2019 at 07:58 PM.
Reason: Typos
Your car looks great! I can only imagine how much all of that would have cost had you paid a dealership or even an independent shop to do all of that work!
Your car looks great! I can only imagine how much all of that would have cost had you paid a dealership or even an independent shop to do all of that work!
I also own a new to me 2000 Boxster S, (black on black). I purchased mine in Nov 2018, suppose to be the 1st Boxster S sold in GA. Mine too has been well cared for and had the IMS solution performed in October. If you don't mind sharing, whom did you purchase the replacement convertible top from and was it had to install?
I also own a new to me 2000 Boxster S, (black on black). I purchased mine in Nov 2018, suppose to be the 1st Boxster S sold in GA. Mine too has been well cared for and had the IMS solution performed in October. If you don't mind sharing, whom did you purchase the replacement convertible top from and was it had to install?
Bought it from AutoTopsDirect; specifically, this one:
I found it to be quite a pain to install. If I'm being honest I'd probably rather do the IMS job again than do the top again; the IMS job was definitely more work but I just greatly prefer nuts&bolts type jobs. Too much tape and glue and frustration with the top
The damp rear trunk may not be due to a bad coolant tank -- when mine leaked it leaked from the split seam along the bottom and the rear trunk was dry -- but from a bad cap. My 2002 Boxster was losing coolant and I topped up the coolant level with distilled water drove the car around with the A/C off until the coolant hot enough to trigger the radiator fans to come on then parked the car in my drive and raised engine RPMs to a bit over 1K and held RPMs there until the fans came on then shut off the engine. I had a tent of aluminum foil over the fluid access bay and after 10 minutes or so there was water condensed on the underneath side of the foil tent. I replaced the cap and the coolant level stayed static.
The smell of antifreeze can be from it being spilled from some (sloppy) servicing in the past.
BTW, the procedure I describe above will also if the coolant tank or any other part of the cooling system is leaking will make the leak obvious as the rising coolant temperature and pressure will force coolant out any leak that normally under less severe conditions doesn't leak.
The damp rear trunk may not be due to a bad coolant tank -- when mine leaked it leaked from the split seam along the bottom and the rear trunk was dry -- but from a bad cap. My 2002 Boxster was losing coolant and I topped up the coolant level with distilled water drove the car around with the A/C off until the coolant hot enough to trigger the radiator fans to come on then parked the car in my drive and raised engine RPMs to a bit over 1K and held RPMs there until the fans came on then shut off the engine. I had a tent of aluminum foil over the fluid access bay and after 10 minutes or so there was water condensed on the underneath side of the foil tent. I replaced the cap and the coolant level stayed static.
The smell of antifreeze can be from it being spilled from some (sloppy) servicing in the past.
BTW, the procedure I describe above will also if the coolant tank or any other part of the cooling system is leaking will make the leak obvious as the rising coolant temperature and pressure will force coolant out any leak that normally under less severe conditions doesn't leak.
My fluid bay always has excessive moisture:
Spoiler
A couple sources led me to believe this was normal (though admittedly I didn't look as hard as I should have).
I'll get a new cap ASAP then. Would be a very cheap, easy fix
Based on my experience it is *not* normal to have any dampness/moisture in either the rear trunk or the front trunk. What I see in the pictures is what I initially spotted when what proved to be the coolant tank cap leaking, but I have to say the amount of water I saw was not nearly as much as what is shown in the pictures. The cap is leaking big time or there is another leak -- the tank? -- which supplies the water from which the considerable condensed water comes from.
Get a new cap. Be sure the threads where the cap screws to the tank are clean and the surface against which the cap seals/seats is clean. Bring the coolant level up but do not overfill. Put the cap on -- careful to avoid cross threading it -- and be sure it it properly tightened down. I want to emphasize that in my experience the cap requires considerable force to get properly tight but you do not want to over gorilla it and break the cap or worse the tank.
If you continue to see water collect under the rear trunk lid and in/around the fluid bay seal and under the lid that covers the bay this suggests there is another leak with the tank or possibly a hose/fitting to blame.
If you see any water under the trunk lid in an area that is not over the fluid service bay this suggests there is moisture in the trunk. This might be from the leaking cap or it might be a leaking trunk weather seal which allows rain or wash water into the trunk. A careful check for any moisture *before* say a car wash (or a rain storm if the car sits outside) then after is called for. Any signs of dampness means probable the trunk is leaking.
Be sure too the rear body water drains are free of any trash build up and are not collecting water. The likelihood of water getting from the rear body water drains into the rear trunk is very small, but while you are there you might as well check the rear body water drains. And check the front body water drains too. It is very important to keep an eye on the body water drains especially if one makes it a habit of parking the car in places where plants/trees shed considerable plant litter onto the car.
No that is a drain hose for overflow of coolant if it leaks into the top of the coolant tank. It runs from top of the tank thru that hose into the wheel well. No pressure so no need for a clamp.
where did u but the IMS solution retrofit kit, Iam considering doing this job my self but IDK I already have 1 Porsche on jack stands I don't want 2..LOL
I didn't see the serpentine drive belt, air filter or cabin filter. All DIY if you wanted to.
Yeah forgot to mention. I did the air filter shortly after I got it (old one basically crumbled when touched. Haven't touched the cabin filter though. The serpentine was also replaced fairly recently before I got it
Originally Posted by flmont
where did u but the IMS solution retrofit kit, Iam considering doing this job my self but IDK I already have 1 Porsche on jack stands I don't want 2..LOL
I bought it from eBay for about $670. Can be risky but if it was a fake, then it was a damn good one. Had all the right LN markings and was very solid
02-17-2019, 06:47 PM
My 2000 Boxster S
I'll be happy to answer any questions
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