Quick Jack 7000
#17
Racer
Debating on if I should purchase the 5000 or 7000 model. I myself have always owned "light cars" (2700-3500lbs) which are fine for the 5000 model.
Looking at using this as a long term investment, trying to understand if spending the extra couple hundred dollars to get the 2000 extra pounds is worth it. When I look at cars > 5000lbs, you're basically looking at full size SUVs (Tahoe, Escalade, etc.) which I don't think I'll ever invest in for a car.
For those that own, why'd you buy the 5000 > 7000 or vice versa.
Looking at using this as a long term investment, trying to understand if spending the extra couple hundred dollars to get the 2000 extra pounds is worth it. When I look at cars > 5000lbs, you're basically looking at full size SUVs (Tahoe, Escalade, etc.) which I don't think I'll ever invest in for a car.
For those that own, why'd you buy the 5000 > 7000 or vice versa.
#18
MaxJax is what I ended up buying because I needed to remove my engine. The setup takes like 15-20 minutes and a PITA. It's is undoubtedly the best tool I have and it's paid itself! Stores in a corner and it's out of the way.
#21
Racer
I'll let those who own answer this question accurately though but in theory, it should be as if you're just leaving the car up on jack stands.
#22
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by HardHitter
Debating on if I should purchase the 5000 or 7000 model. I myself have always owned "light cars" (2700-3500lbs) which are fine for the 5000 model.
Looking at using this as a long term investment, trying to understand if spending the extra couple hundred dollars to get the 2000 extra pounds is worth it. When I look at cars > 5000lbs, you're basically looking at full size SUVs (Tahoe, Escalade, etc.) which I don't think I'll ever invest in for a car.
For those that own, why'd you buy the 5000 > 7000 or vice versa.
Looking at using this as a long term investment, trying to understand if spending the extra couple hundred dollars to get the 2000 extra pounds is worth it. When I look at cars > 5000lbs, you're basically looking at full size SUVs (Tahoe, Escalade, etc.) which I don't think I'll ever invest in for a car.
For those that own, why'd you buy the 5000 > 7000 or vice versa.
Either way the 5000 is really what's needed even if you have to lift an SUV
#23
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by bruni911
Question
can you leave the car on the lift for months?
was thinking of when I store the car I can leave it up with the wheels off.
can you leave the car on the lift for months?
was thinking of when I store the car I can leave it up with the wheels off.
Like this. I'm working on a transmission on my E90 and lines are unhooked and locked
#24
Racer
5000vs7000 are very similar, 7000 has thicker materials to technically lift a full size SUV. That said, both can lift 4 times its limit. The reason why I got the 7000 was I was one of the first to get the SLX version and at that time, the additional blocks and SUV adapters where a bonus and came with it.
Either way the 5000 is really what's needed even if you have to lift an SUV
Either way the 5000 is really what's needed even if you have to lift an SUV
#25
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by HardHitter
I believe the 7000 sits a little higher vs the 5000 when laying flat. Is your Turbo lowered at all? My Turbo is lowered on springs and just didn't want to get the 7000 and won't fit under it due to the extra height.
#30
Racer
That is the route I'm going to go. If I am right, the 110AC is a standard plug in socket. The 12V hooks up to your cars battery I think, or at least I've seen someone jumper the hydraulic system to their battery to power it.