Potential turbo issues
07-30-2015, 10:49 AM
#46
Pro
Thread Starter
got the call I didn't want from the turbo guy.
bearing housing (the central part that the pipes go into) is too badly corroded to risk a rebuild. They cant source replacements for those, and New turbos from Germany are £5k (a pair).
I've told him to return them and they are going back on with new link rods, as he confirmed the ball ends don't look too bad on the actuator arms.
Not really happy, but these may last a few years more before they properly fail, and since it was only the linkage that caused me to take them off, I can live with that.
at least all the nuts and bolts will come undone next time
I wish I had just replaced the link rods in the first place
07-31-2015, 03:23 AM
#48
Racer
John
This may be of interest to you - 800GBP each (he has each one listed seperately) - no feedback on the guy though !!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-5304...item2ee3e40acc
This may be of interest to you - 800GBP each (he has each one listed seperately) - no feedback on the guy though !!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-5304...item2ee3e40acc
07-31-2015, 01:25 PM
#49
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks Jay, I will go take a look.
Spoke to the turbo guy a short while ago. They have just finished testing the turbos after fitting new link rods and studs.
One thing he said that I have no idea how to do is ensure the turbos are primed with oil. Given where the lines are (oil feed line is the first one fitted as it's closest to engine) I cannot see how to do this, except spinning the engine over a few times without starting it.
so the question is, how best to achieve this ?
Got a result off of eBay, the pair of oil return pipes new for half price (the unions on them either side of the flexible rubber bit are badly corroded).
ordered most of the rest of the parts from Gert.
Spoke to the turbo guy a short while ago. They have just finished testing the turbos after fitting new link rods and studs.
One thing he said that I have no idea how to do is ensure the turbos are primed with oil. Given where the lines are (oil feed line is the first one fitted as it's closest to engine) I cannot see how to do this, except spinning the engine over a few times without starting it.
so the question is, how best to achieve this ?
Got a result off of eBay, the pair of oil return pipes new for half price (the unions on them either side of the flexible rubber bit are badly corroded).
ordered most of the rest of the parts from Gert.
08-08-2015, 07:00 AM
#50
Pro
Thread Starter
Hi all,
Well the saga continues.
I got the turbos back and it looks like they externally washed them off, and replaced the studs / nuts, plus the link rods.
Trouble is, both link rods they have fitted have a different number on them to the ones that were previously fitted (it's not the porsche part num er), and are both the same length. I am sure they are different lengths from left to right normally.
I've decided to just go buy a new pair of rods from the dealer to be sure they are correct.
Still waiting on the parts from Gert, but wasn't expecting to get them yet anyway.
Tried contacting the guy about the turbos inpoland. Sent messages and left voice mails, but got no return calls. Ho hum.
Hopefully get it back together next weekend...
Well the saga continues.
I got the turbos back and it looks like they externally washed them off, and replaced the studs / nuts, plus the link rods.
Trouble is, both link rods they have fitted have a different number on them to the ones that were previously fitted (it's not the porsche part num er), and are both the same length. I am sure they are different lengths from left to right normally.
I've decided to just go buy a new pair of rods from the dealer to be sure they are correct.
Still waiting on the parts from Gert, but wasn't expecting to get them yet anyway.
Tried contacting the guy about the turbos inpoland. Sent messages and left voice mails, but got no return calls. Ho hum.
Hopefully get it back together next weekend...
08-19-2015, 10:10 AM
#52
Pro
Thread Starter
Quick update:
As luck would have it I have managed to buy a pair of turbos. They have had new bearing cartidge assemblies fitted, so although not strictly new, they should be as good as. They should turn up Friday (from the uk, not the guy in poland)
My existing turbos don't look that bad to me in terms of corrosion, having given them a good brush and scrape, but since these others came up at a price that was too good to turn down, and the car is already apart, it seemed daft not to grab them up. For now I will put my old ones on the shelf. Might unload them at some point. Not sure how much they are worth though (working fine, just the central bearing housing is a little rusty).
All the new bolts o rings & gaskets etc arrived Monday, so i have a busy Saturday coming up. I hope I can remember where all the bolts go
As luck would have it I have managed to buy a pair of turbos. They have had new bearing cartidge assemblies fitted, so although not strictly new, they should be as good as. They should turn up Friday (from the uk, not the guy in poland)
My existing turbos don't look that bad to me in terms of corrosion, having given them a good brush and scrape, but since these others came up at a price that was too good to turn down, and the car is already apart, it seemed daft not to grab them up. For now I will put my old ones on the shelf. Might unload them at some point. Not sure how much they are worth though (working fine, just the central bearing housing is a little rusty).
All the new bolts o rings & gaskets etc arrived Monday, so i have a busy Saturday coming up. I hope I can remember where all the bolts go
08-23-2015, 06:06 AM
#54
Pro
Thread Starter
The car is pretty much all back together.
It was possible to feed the O2 sensor across the top of the engine without lowering it, just a bit fiddly.
In order to change the two oil return pipes I had to remove the engine plate. This caused the lowest pipe at the rear of the car to leak coolant. It stopped once it was all tightened up again, but have to wonder if this isn't a potential future problem
I've managed to break the nipple off one of the recirculated valves.
I thought there was a service kit with new lid and screws, but I can't find it on any of the parts diagrams.
All I can find are aftermarket upgrades, but I'm running standard tune so don't really need these.
Does anyone know the part number or have the diagram that shows the standard ones ?
Also, I want to crank the engine to get oil to the turbos before I actually start it. How best to do this ?
Is there a fuse or something I can pull that ideally won't log a fault ?
Cheers all.
It was possible to feed the O2 sensor across the top of the engine without lowering it, just a bit fiddly.
In order to change the two oil return pipes I had to remove the engine plate. This caused the lowest pipe at the rear of the car to leak coolant. It stopped once it was all tightened up again, but have to wonder if this isn't a potential future problem
I've managed to break the nipple off one of the recirculated valves.
I thought there was a service kit with new lid and screws, but I can't find it on any of the parts diagrams.
All I can find are aftermarket upgrades, but I'm running standard tune so don't really need these.
Does anyone know the part number or have the diagram that shows the standard ones ?
Also, I want to crank the engine to get oil to the turbos before I actually start it. How best to do this ?
Is there a fuse or something I can pull that ideally won't log a fault ?
Cheers all.
08-23-2015, 10:48 AM
#55
The car is pretty much all back together.
It was possible to feed the O2 sensor across the top of the engine without lowering it, just a bit fiddly.
In order to change the two oil return pipes I had to remove the engine plate. This caused the lowest pipe at the rear of the car to leak coolant. It stopped once it was all tightened up again, but have to wonder if this isn't a potential future problem
I've managed to break the nipple off one of the recirculated valves.
I thought there was a service kit with new lid and screws, but I can't find it on any of the parts diagrams.
All I can find are aftermarket upgrades, but I'm running standard tune so don't really need these.
Does anyone know the part number or have the diagram that shows the standard ones ?
Also, I want to crank the engine to get oil to the turbos before I actually start it. How best to do this ?
Is there a fuse or something I can pull that ideally won't log a fault ?
Cheers all.
It was possible to feed the O2 sensor across the top of the engine without lowering it, just a bit fiddly.
In order to change the two oil return pipes I had to remove the engine plate. This caused the lowest pipe at the rear of the car to leak coolant. It stopped once it was all tightened up again, but have to wonder if this isn't a potential future problem
I've managed to break the nipple off one of the recirculated valves.
I thought there was a service kit with new lid and screws, but I can't find it on any of the parts diagrams.
All I can find are aftermarket upgrades, but I'm running standard tune so don't really need these.
Does anyone know the part number or have the diagram that shows the standard ones ?
Also, I want to crank the engine to get oil to the turbos before I actually start it. How best to do this ?
Is there a fuse or something I can pull that ideally won't log a fault ?
Cheers all.
DC
LINK HERE
08-23-2015, 12:49 PM
#56
Pro
Thread Starter
That's it, thanks. I was just coming back to update my post, I found that it's a borg warner spare part, number 179424.
That just leaves how to crank the car without starting it.
On the 993 I used to pull the dme relay. Not sure how to achieve this on the 997 though.
That just leaves how to crank the car without starting it.
On the 993 I used to pull the dme relay. Not sure how to achieve this on the 997 though.
