Starting issue..
#16
My battery is new. It cranks up every time when the car is cold.
But if the car has been driven for a while and it's hot; Then if I turn it off and then try to start it again; It won't crank the first time I turn the key. But if I turn the key all the way off; It will start on the second attempt..
But if the car has been driven for a while and it's hot; Then if I turn it off and then try to start it again; It won't crank the first time I turn the key. But if I turn the key all the way off; It will start on the second attempt..
#17
I had this problem over the past (very cold) winter. It got to the point where the car would not crank at all even after I had the battery tender on all night. I did the following and it's been fine since:
- Replaced the positive batter cable from the battery to the firewall. This cable is only about 18" long, and it slips onto a post protruding through the firewall. The cable clips onto this post and is allowed to pivot or rotate. This connection was the main problem. This post transmits battery positive to a power distributor inside the passenger compartment. If you only drive the car in warm weather, you can probably solve your problem by un-clipping this cable from the post on the firewall, and gently cleaning the post with a scotchbright pad or sandpaper. A small bottle brush style wire brush could be used to clean the inside of the cable that fits over the post.
- Cleaned the ground connections at the front by the battery and added another ground strap from the battery to a bolt near the brake master cylinder.
- Cleaned the positive cable connections at the starter.
- Added a fat ground cable from the starter mounting bolt all the way to a threaded bolt hole I found on the underbody in the region of the driver's elbow in the centre of the car. I did not notice another ground strap at the rear of the car, so I don't know where it's located or if mine was missing.
This may have been overkill, but I drive the car in extremely cold weather so I need all the help I can get.
- Replaced the positive batter cable from the battery to the firewall. This cable is only about 18" long, and it slips onto a post protruding through the firewall. The cable clips onto this post and is allowed to pivot or rotate. This connection was the main problem. This post transmits battery positive to a power distributor inside the passenger compartment. If you only drive the car in warm weather, you can probably solve your problem by un-clipping this cable from the post on the firewall, and gently cleaning the post with a scotchbright pad or sandpaper. A small bottle brush style wire brush could be used to clean the inside of the cable that fits over the post.
- Cleaned the ground connections at the front by the battery and added another ground strap from the battery to a bolt near the brake master cylinder.
- Cleaned the positive cable connections at the starter.
- Added a fat ground cable from the starter mounting bolt all the way to a threaded bolt hole I found on the underbody in the region of the driver's elbow in the centre of the car. I did not notice another ground strap at the rear of the car, so I don't know where it's located or if mine was missing.
This may have been overkill, but I drive the car in extremely cold weather so I need all the help I can get.
#18
I had this problem over the past (very cold) winter. It got to the point where the car would not crank at all even after I had the battery tender on all night. I did the following and it's been fine since:
- Replaced the positive batter cable from the battery to the firewall. This cable is only about 18" long, and it slips onto a post protruding through the firewall. The cable clips onto this post and is allowed to pivot or rotate. This connection was the main problem. This post transmits battery positive to a power distributor inside the passenger compartment. If you only drive the car in warm weather, you can probably solve your problem by un-clipping this cable from the post on the firewall, and gently cleaning the post with a scotchbright pad or sandpaper. A small bottle brush style wire brush could be used to clean the inside of the cable that fits over the post.
- Cleaned the ground connections at the front by the battery and added another ground strap from the battery to a bolt near the brake master cylinder.
- Cleaned the positive cable connections at the starter.
- Added a fat ground cable from the starter mounting bolt all the way to a threaded bolt hole I found on the underbody in the region of the driver's elbow in the centre of the car. I did not notice another ground strap at the rear of the car, so I don't know where it's located or if mine was missing.
This may have been overkill, but I drive the car in extremely cold weather so I need all the help I can get.
- Replaced the positive batter cable from the battery to the firewall. This cable is only about 18" long, and it slips onto a post protruding through the firewall. The cable clips onto this post and is allowed to pivot or rotate. This connection was the main problem. This post transmits battery positive to a power distributor inside the passenger compartment. If you only drive the car in warm weather, you can probably solve your problem by un-clipping this cable from the post on the firewall, and gently cleaning the post with a scotchbright pad or sandpaper. A small bottle brush style wire brush could be used to clean the inside of the cable that fits over the post.
- Cleaned the ground connections at the front by the battery and added another ground strap from the battery to a bolt near the brake master cylinder.
- Cleaned the positive cable connections at the starter.
- Added a fat ground cable from the starter mounting bolt all the way to a threaded bolt hole I found on the underbody in the region of the driver's elbow in the centre of the car. I did not notice another ground strap at the rear of the car, so I don't know where it's located or if mine was missing.
This may have been overkill, but I drive the car in extremely cold weather so I need all the help I can get.
Thanks for the info. Seems like a relatively low level of effort to begin troubleshooting.
-Mike
#19
I don't know the part number of the positive battery cable, but it's #4 in the picture (#11 is the Power Distributor that's located inside the passenger compartment on the firewall). The smaller wire you see attached to the cable was too buried in harness to disconnect, so I cut it and spliced it...which is what Porsche expected, because they included an extra piece of wire and a crimp connector...I soldered mine and used shrink tubing. I'd still like to find the #15 connection shown in the picture so i can make sure that connection is clean and tight.
I think I got the ground cable at Napa, but I don't know the part number or dimensions, sorry. I'll measure it next time I'm under the car. It was about 3' long.
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molson cdn (06-26-2020)