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For those that have tracked their Turbo, do you have any brake pad recommendations? For reference, I'm not trying to turn the car into a pure track rat. My use will be for occasional DE's with R-Compound tires. I'll be changing my brake fluid to SRF.
The car will remain my DD. I am fully aware that track pads often "squeak" when cold and that's not a problem for me.
For those that have tracked their Turbo, do you have any brake pad recommendations? For reference, I'm not trying to turn the car into a pure track rat. My use will be for occasional DE's with R-Compound tires. I'll be changing my brake fluid to SRF. The car will remain my DD. I am fully aware that track pads often "squeak" when cold and that's not a problem for me.
Yes PFC-08 or 11 compound. Contact Clark
At apex performance. You will not be Dissapointed!
Reviving this thread, searched and searched. I'm almost positive I need rear brakes. Looks like the front are OK. However I need guidance on pads and rotors.
1. Do I need rotors? Recommendations? Sebro?
2. What pads should I use for spirited driving?
3. I've tried doing a brake flush before on previous cars, found it to be a PITA. Anyone have recommendations on newer tools that make it easy? Think I had a motive bleeder
measure rotors with micrometers. compare to minimum thickness on rotor.
For non track work, stock seems to be the choice.
Motive makes bleeding brakes a non issue. You can use the traditional method for one or two cycles on each caliper, just to be sure you have all the air out.
I know my rotors will need to be replaced, so I'm driving the car till the brake pad light comes on.
measure rotors with micrometers. compare to minimum thickness on rotor.
For non track work, stock seems to be the choice.
Motive makes bleeding brakes a non issue. You can use the traditional method for one or two cycles on each caliper, just to be sure you have all the air out.
I know my rotors will need to be replaced, so I'm driving the car till the brake pad light comes on.
thanks, i'm surprised my light hasn't come on because my rears look toast. I'll have to give the motive another shot.
Last month I did the Rotor and Pad change. I went Sebro Rotors and the Textar pads. Realize that I do not track- just spirited driving. I've driven about 500 miles on this setup and have had ZERO issues. I went this route to save a couple bucks- and it was my first time I've done ANY mechanical work on any car. I did replace all 4 sensors- I broke all but 1 sensor. I also purchased the brake pad shims and replaced those.
The whole job took me the entire day- but I attribute that to zero experience going in. At a minimum I will cut the time in 1/2 next time I do this.
I also did a brake bleed when I first purchased the car- again following the method to pressurize the brake reservoir using a the moto bleeder...this was very easy in my opinion. Detail steps are also readily available.
no, how do i check the sensor to see if it's shorted?
The sensor is a pretty simple setup.
Its 2 wires with what I believe are metal prongs in a little coating, that clips onto the pad. Once the pads wear down enough that you burn through the little metal clips, you get an open circuit, and the pad warning.
So, if you cut the wires going to the sensor, and connect them, you complete the circuit and shut off the light.
So basically, you look at the wires going to the caliper. If they are cut and connected, you know the sensor is not doing its job.
I forget the exact thickness of the sensor but, its close to your pad backing plate thickness. You are close but, you may not be there just yet. Wiring for this sensor runs off your shock assembly. Most "By-pass" mods would just cut or zip tie the sensor back to the brake line or shock assembly.
I would use stock pads for your application. I would still recommend this even though they are dirty as hell. Use your caliper dust as an example.
I run PFC 08's for track usage. They are quiet for the first day or two after a track event. The aftermath squeaks like hell. Thankfully I have a manual and can downshift.
Motive bleeder didn't seem to terrible to me. You could use there fittings with an air compressor to help speed up the process and eliminate the pumping.
i'll take a look at Sebro rotors, but if I can get all OEM parts for reasonable from Sunset Porsche i'll go that route. Was hoping to find pads that have as little dust as possible, but haven't really found anything yet.
I called pelican, turns out they don't carry or seem to make sebros for the rear. Fronts only.
Anyone have a suggestion of any added parts I should get besides just the rotors/pads/sensors?
Last edited by Ibanezgod; Nov 25, 2015 at 11:41 AM.
For rears, make sure to buy the calliper bolts (2 each side), which Porsche say change each time. Because you need to remove the calliper to do rear pads on Turbo/GT3.
Yes yes I know they might be OK reused, but the strut is aluminium and why risk thread damage to the (hugely expensive) strut for a few bucks? Also if Mr. Porsche suggests new bolts, that's good enough for me.
In fact, I understand a few folks who do a lot of tracking, and therefore replace rears frequently, convert to Cup stye studs and nuts to avoid risks of stripping struts.
Last edited by RJKflyer; Nov 25, 2015 at 12:53 PM.
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Brake Pads
