eurotom

Really -1.5 without shims still an issue ?

TT Surgeon

I don't think 1.5 wo shims is an issue. The only issues I have seen were at over 2.5 on a 996tt awd.
I've run many thousand miles, track too, at-2.0 w shims up front.

eurotom

Also what I've been told by those selling the LCAs. . My goal is to get to a min of -2.0 with lcas alone

TT Surgeon

With the top side monoballs you shouldn't have a problem achieving -2.0 wo shims.

eurotom

Roger that !

speed21

I'm no alignment expert, just referencing what was found and discussed during the set up on my last 9977ttt using 997 cup lfca's. As i mentioned earlier Im told 996 arms are a bit shorter so to acheive the same length as the 997 cups a shim is required. Don't forget there is more than just knocking the top strut over as far as it can go in the tower and then just play with the bottom half. The awd is a different alignment than the 2 altogether and the fronts and rears are all taken into consideration as a 4. With mine the tops had to come over the other way a bit too. Looking at the travel in the CV's the techs agreed that it was best to fit tarets to get -2 and above so to share the spread and retain adequate cv travel. They said other cheaper way is to reverse the top mount, turn them around. Plonking 2 on the bottom, not touching the top didn't appear feasible to them at the time for obvious reasons but they were the experts so I respected their opinions. Maybe others out there have found different means of doing it. Looking at the problem they were referring to regarding the limited amount of travel in the cv joint it seemed plausible to avoid that approach but hey if you feel its safe to take it out all on the bottom then be my guest. Your car.

PS. I'm lost why you are messing around with it now at such a late stage in the game of ownership. Your car from what I understand is hardly in optimum spec for track use anyway i.e ST packet tune, tubi exhaust with old style restrictive pinned cats (god only knows what condition they are in at this stage gulp), no .2 ICs...(do you have a sachs clutch?) honestly man good luck using it under track conditions that's all I can say. At the least I'd pop in the stock tune for T/days and get a decent system. The 997tt.1 was never much of a track car without spending a packet on it....and even then.. Hmm why not just get the 991GT3 and be done with it? It'd be so much better. To throw money at this car now seems such a waste imho.

eurotom

Thanks. I do intend on going with adjustable plates along with the LCAs

Late in the game? I have no intention of selling now, but have every intention of adding a GT3 to my garage one day. In the meantime a few sublte changes can help improve my experience on/off the track. By no means do I believe the TT is a track car. I enjoy spending money it makes me feel accomplished. Some spend on shoes I spend on chicken of the sea 93 octane tunes and any exhaust that is not manufactured in Belgium. I like Tiramisu not waffles.

PS
You forgot to mention bilsteins Lets keep this thread on topic please. If you'd like you can PM me with details on why my car is ****ty.

speed21

No worries. Happy to share any experiences I had with my own. I'm sure there are experts your way such as TPC and the likes that can help out in qualifying anything said here. No doubt the turbo has its issues which must be taken in to proper consideration when setting up a track alignment. The job really is best left for those few that really know a lot about the car, and many either don't consider the shafts or underestimate the importance to retain the travel from what I've read on these forums at times. I made sure to take my car to people that really knew all about the 997tt car for track set ups and were willing to show me through their process. It all made perfect sense to me. You may also look at the option of reversing your top mounts to get some additional neg happening up top but for sure the tarets are the easier option if not more expensive.

And on the other, never said it was ****ty but you would be wise to keep in mind that the engine is exposed under track conditions where things are not taken into proper consideration. You may be able to get away with using that kind of stuff on the street perhaps but I personally would be exercising extreme caution under track conditions. But again just MHO and your call your car. A tuned/over boosted engine boosting into a restrictive pinned cat system is fraught with danger. And, I knew about your shocks already, and whilst I definitely don't share your enthusiasm with that suspension system at least it won't blow a front diff or engine.

PS: If you say you like spending your money to feel accomplished then you should have no issue setting it up properly to accommodate ALL of the issues And i only mentioned "late in the game" meaning that if your plan was to get a GT3 anyway then why on earth bother screwing around with a 997TT Cheers.

eurotom

Thanks Paul for the input when my diff, engine, and shocks explode waffles are on me.

aa909

Tom just be careful. I was reading that thread on another forum about all the ST tuned 997.1 Turbos that have had engines explode during a track events... Oh no wait I was just light headed from the steaming pile of dung Paul dropped in his early post LMFAAAOOOOOOO!!

speed21

Haha.. But seriously GL with it and I mean that Tom. Im actually quite surprised you hadn't had it set (aligned) for track by now. I thought you were using on T/days already? To get a good street/track compromise just set it to 2 or a bit less. That way your tires will wear fine during the majority of street driving. Much more than 2, 2.2 you will notice the fronts wear on the inside edges. But for sure more is better for the track if it is to become a dedicated T/hack. GL.

And Art: I thought you'd like that hehehe. but it is true and i'm sure Tom knows that even if he is not prepared to admit it online.

eurotom

Base on wear 2.2 should be adequate . I only have 3 days on the TT I'm a "fast" learner.

I have nothing to admit other than I needed guidance and shared experiences in regards to camber. Look at title of thread.

We can start a new thread on exhaust if you want we can discuss pinned cats Chinese knockoffs back pressure scavenging effects how sexy Stef is pretty much anything

speed21

I wasn't talking the camber but the other crap that needs addressing before something goes bang..hehehe.

And on the other thread I'll leave that one to you LOL. Maybe when you get a decent system on you can rave about it...and how you punished yourself for years hehehe

TT Surgeon

Tom, you won't have any problems with your setup on street tires. I had many track days on your same setup, mine was initially setup by Farnbacher-Loles by the 67 car chief mech, and that's exactly what they recommended sans bilsteins.
Paul's concerns are valid but a little exaggerated imo, he probably means well. -2.5 is nothing on a track car. I drove a 935 race car at thunderbolt last yr with -3.75 up front, with Hoosiers, now that's a track car.
It's your car, do what you want, don't worry the sky isn't falling.
C

speed21

If by set up you mean suspension settings of 2.2 and street tires I agree. Street wear will remain acceptable but track will still be hard on the front outer edges. The turbo is a heavy car and the street rubber heats up so fast and chews out in no time, slips slides around, you'll have boxsters going around you in the corners. Imho best buy a second set wheels with R's, set her up 2.2 2.5 up front and change the wheels for the track days. That way you can be somewhat competitive. Agree with hoosiers/slicks under 3 is a waste. Those cars are usually running 3 to 4 up front and will go around you like you are standing still, particularly on street tires. I guess it depends on the track too. Maybe Toms track is all straightaways, few corners?