Looking for suggestions and on/off track experiences with getting to -2.5-3 neg camber up front.

From what I've read best solution to prevent excessive shimming of LCAs and CV join stress is to go with a combination LCA/Camber plates

My thoughts for now are to go with RSS LCAs with max 3-5mm shim and see what I can get out of the fronts

Thanks the input.

 

ET, I've been running the RSS LCA's with Tarett Monoball Camber Plates and Mounts. it's a nice setup but, I think, you should be able get to -3' with just the LCA's. I ran -3' for a season but prematurely corded a couple of rear RE-11's on the inside (too much street driving) so have now cut back to -2.5'. Not much apparent difference on the track and longevity has improved. Should I be fortunate enough to run on NT-01's this coming season, the setup will have to be happily revisited. Best,

 

I highly recommend the gt3 LCAs, with shims. I easily got -2-2.5, more than that uppers are recommended to save the cv joints.

 

Curious as to why you decided to go with camber plates if you could get to -2.5 with just the LCAs? What size shims did you go with? Also any increase in NVH.

Yes NT-01's 305/30/19 availabe on 2/1!!!!!!!!!! I've heard great things about Cup 2's. Although a harder compound they provide same level of grip to NT-01 and increased longevity. I'm assuming the NT-01 will costs the same.

Chris only reason I'm leaning more towards RSS is it comes complete with shims and of course Sharwerks who is in my neighboorhod carries RSS parts.
Costs seems to be similar for either option.

Have not heard anything negative about either of the two.

 

Actually, the decision to go with camber plates was unrelated to the suspension setup. Initially, 2011, Evoms set the car up with the LCA's while doing my build and the alignment was tinkered with between shops since. Last year, another problem unrelated to alignment arose that was linked to the coilover mounts which were discovered to be totally worn. No rubber in the rubber bushings.....so the Tarett's were installed. I must confess that I am neither a technician nor a wrench so I have no idea what shims Evoms used in the initial setup although it was sufficient to get -3'.

PS What's NVH?

 

Educate me here since I'm not as familiar with the AWD turbo setup...Can someone elaborate on how using a camber plate in addition to 2 piece control arm with shims makes it easier on the CV joints vs. just the lower control arms by themselves? is it just that the CV joint doesn't like the added length to the control arm when adding shims? In the end the upright is still going to be angled to whatever degrees no matter what the solution to get it there.

The biggest issue with adding alot of shims to the lower control arm is the gain in caster that comes with it. However putting solid, adjustable pucks in the control arm can allow you to bring the caster back into spec without worrying about it.

With camber plates the top of the wheel comes in and tends to contact the inner fender / brake ducts / coolant lines more easily at full lock esp with an aggressive wheel and tire combo.

 

Noise Vibration Harshness

 

With the front axels on the awd turbo, if you "pull" the tire too much on the bottom it stresses the cv joint causing extreme lateral traction and caster. But you have to be pushing -3 and beyond to have an issue, and only in hard cornering at the track with Hoosiers, in my experience at least.
Btw, the shims are just a few dollars a piece, rss is fine, but I prefer the super beefy oem gt3 links, ESP the 996 gt3 links. Plus it looks stock, under the radar.
C

 

Agreed with being under the radar. Best source is Tarrett for the GT3 arms?

 

Yes, ira has the best prices, be sure and get the litronic brackets too.

 

Got it did you god with rubber bushing for inner end and thrust arms? What size shims to get to -2.2-2.5

 

I got an assortment of shims, yes the hard rubber gt3 stuff.

 

Any reason to go to monoball end and Solid adjustable t-arm bushing for caster?

 

I had solids and MBs on my old blue car and they created some NVH, that's al..
This is what I used most recently;

 

Yes. They don't like it at all.

You need to balance out neg camber between the top and bottom of the strut to retain the movement in the CV joint. Achieving all the neg by moving it out at the bottom of the strut using a shimmed GT3 LFCA) results in reduction or even complete removal of the slide action movement in the CV joint of the drive shaft/s. You see once all movement is removed the joint is unable to accommodate for any suspension movement (during up down shock travel) and steering inputs. The joint then bottoms out and the shaft pulls hard at the diff end causing seal and/or diff damage. I would say anything over 1.5, using a 997GT3 LCFA with no shim means you will need an adjustable top taret plate.I believe the 996 GT3 LFCA are slightly shorter so a bit more shim can be used than a 997 cup arm. That way you can balance the neg out between top and bottom and retain the movement in the cv joint. Understand? Note 2wd doesn't have these issues due to no front diff or cv drive shafts. PS also be mindful you can only get a max of -1 deg by using what small adjustment there is at the top of the strut (without a taret).