So it seems like the clutch to me, but it seems random----read on:

2009 997 Turbo Cab, 6 spd. 29,400 miles

A few months ago when i was 'getting on' the car, i thought i noticed toward the higher end RPM that the car kind of 'over revved' like maybe it lost traction, or a clutch slip. But i couldnt reproduce it. Over the last few months, i started to notice it showing up a bit more. I notice i can reproduce it more if i am at lower RPM's, lets say 4th gear, 2,000 RPMs, and i want to accelerate, but do not down shift. So i put the pedal down and let it accelerate ----if i keep the pedal down, right around the 3,500-4k RPM mark, all of a sudden BOOM it just rev's up as if its in neutral or clutch is in. So it sounds like the clutch slipping and time for a new one. I took a mechanic i know that works on all kinds of cars with me for probably a 20 min ride, and everything i tried, i could NOT make the car slip at all. He got kind of concerned about this theory / analysis, because he said "when a clutch starts to go, it goes ---it doesnt get better, and everything your showing me here, its very strong---no sign of an issue at all". SO i figured i would get some feedback here.

 

I'd find a long uphill climb, put it in 6th gear and floor it. My guess is you'll be able to get it to slip 100% of the time then. That's the best test I've ever found for clutch durability.

Good luck,
Scott

 

I haven't experienced clutch failure on my 997, but I did in my 996. From the time that I felt the first symptoms of slippage until the car was essentially not driveable was less than a week. I think that once they start to go, they go quickly.

 

I have an 09 that had a slipping clutch that could only be replicated under certain circumstances. Basically the car and outside temps had to be cool, otherwise, no slip. From what your said it sounds just like mine. Everything is OK till you reach max boost and torque and when it gives up the tach needle jumps to the redline, when the clutch gives up it gives up completely. This is different than other cars I've owned with a failing clutch. Even though my car is stock I decided to put in a Sachs 2.5, the stock clutch is marginal and if you ever mod your car it won't be up to the task.

 

My wife toasted the clutch in a short period of time in my former 997S. She drove my TT for a week or two taking the kids to school (lots of stop and go) and I noticed immediately that she was toasting the clutch. I'm now close to 30K miles, and I know a new clutch is in my near future (I do a lot of stop and go and short runs, so can't blame it all on the wife).

Symptoms of failing clutch include slipping and gradually heavier clutch pressure. I probably need a new clutch soon. I am very sensitive to slight changes and I feel that coming. Plan to do that, new plugs, and aftermarket coolant pipes sometime in the near future.

 

Wow! really...a new clutch? What is that going to cost me or will my CPO cover this?

I have had the same thing happen (like the OP describes) and only twice since I bought the car and I cannot make it happen on purpose. Both times I was jumping on it fairly hard...I too thought it was the clutch but this is kind of weird in that when a clutch goes it is not going to act like this? If it starts slipping it get worse quickly....like Dennis C said. And the last time my did this was over two weeks ago. For instance I got on it hard today driving into work and it was sort of cold out (40's in Florida is cold to me) but car was warmed up and it did not do this at all???

PS and like others in this post I am right at 30K miles

 

CPO definitely does NOT cover clutch wear. If you just got the car, your dealer may pity you and cut you a break, but I doubt it.

Figure $4 to $5k for a clutch job.

 

Sounds similar to my situation. The clutch would only slip if the sports chrono was on and the car was relatively cool. In my case at least it wouldn't do it if the car was fully warmed up. Of course once it starts I'm sure over time it would get worse. My car was CPO as well and I'd owned it awhile before I discovered the issue. The dealer is a hour from my house and I drove there twice to show them the problem. Both times the car being fully warmed up wouldn't slip. I finally had to leave the car with them over night. When they drove it in the morning they could get the clutch to slip. This repair is not covered by CPO, the clutch is considered a wear item, so like brake pads it's excluded. Although my car is still stock I didn't want to put a stock clutch back in (my car had almost 30,000 miles) if you ever have a tune added ( I have a uninstalled FVD Brombacker tune sitting under my workbench, haven't pulled the trigger as it's still under CPO) the stock clutch will be a problem. I negotiated a compromise wit the dealer. He'd cover the labor and I'd cover the parts. I picked up a Sachs 2.5 for about $1650 for the kit and provided it to the dealer. Works great and will stand up to the tune if I ever install it. Great service on the clutch package from Berk at DBCTuning BTW, highly recommend him.

 

550bryan...you read my mind ^^^^ well we both own a 2009 TT 6MT...go figure...LOL

But yes my next question was going to be if I am gojng to get a new clutch I want to upgrade (for when I tune) so what do you guys suggest...thanks

PS I will pm you to find out how much it all cost (labor included) so I can negotiate with my dealer

 

Okay, I just did that tonight. I took off from the line today and it did the same thing. My car felt like it was spinning its wheels all the way through first and second gear. I had it in sport mode, and I also have a stage 1 Cobb AP tune. I remember reading this thread and seeing some of the suggestions on here. I.E. finding a long uphill stretch and driving up in 6th gear. All was fine. I was just wondering if I should have someone look at it? Was there too much torque with the tune for the clutch to engage? Is my clutch dying a slow death?

Thanks everyone!!

 

A tune and in sport mode = short life for a clutch. Just keep driving it, you'll get there soon enough

If you don't have the money or time to do a clutch, stay out of sport mode with a tune; it will prolong the life of it.

 

Definitely sounds like your clutch is going south. With a tune it's just about assured. I had to replace my clutch at 26,000 miles and my car is stock. One downside of waiting is hot spotting your flywheel. If you have to replace your flywheel as well it adds about a grand to the repair. One way to determine if your clutch has hot spots (I've been told, but by experts) is to let the clutch out slowly with the car at idle, if it shudders as the car moves forward it has hot spots, of course once you do the repair an inspection will reveal it's condition. Usually the flywheel is OK and it works fine with a Sachs 2.5 which would be completely adequate with your Cobb tune. I think it's good for any car until you get above 650 HP., then a full racing clutch is required.

 

Thank you so much! I did notice the "shuttering" when I first bought it but I was just figuring that was my lack of MT driving in the past 4-5 years. Maybe not. Could it possibly be a pressure plate deal? I've been reading some stuff about it and the internet always has the right answers and always tells the truth!

Thanks!

 

You definitely don't want to put a stock clutch back in. The best choice for a car with a tune is a Sachs 2.5, the clutch package is about $1650. Labor is another issue. Porsche dealers will call for an engine out repair at 15 hours, with a So Cal labor rate around $160 that translates to about $2400. Some indies will remove the transmission instead and can do it that way in half the time. If you need a flywheel add about a grand. Just a pressure plate won't fix the problem and you'd incur the labor charges anyway so you need to do at least the PP, disc, and TO bearing. With the more expensive engine out procedure you can also replace the plugs and consider addressing the coolant pipes at the same time.

 

Youch! I guess I'll quit my bitchin' about the $105 my dealer charges (plus I get a 10% PCA discount).