MBuhrig

Hi all,

I cleaned my car today (2007 997TT) and was going to take some interior pics for a previous post of mine, however I just got a Check Engine light that says "Visit Workshop". I could not find the exact code in the manual. The closest thing was a code that said to check fuel cap, which I did with no luck.

I searched Rennlist but did not find anything that helped. Anyone have any ideas what else I could check before taking the three hour drive to the closest PCar dealer next week?

Thanks in advance,
Marc

Macster

Is the light a check engine light or a service engine soon (oil?) light?

If the first what is the error code?

My WAG is washing the car got the engine wet and the error code arose from that.

(My Turbo's engine gets a bit wet enough wet the belt squeaks a bit upon the 1st start after washing and I'm careful to not over due the application of water to the rear engine cover.)

Also, I have to ask: I've been through El Paso several times and I'm wondering where in 3 hours is the nearest Porsche dealership? Albuquerque?

Sorry, got off track: Anyway if engine is not exhibiting any untoward symptoms the usual procedure is to read the error code(s), write codes down for reference, then clear them then drive the car normally and see if the check engine light comes on again the code(s) return. If at anytime however, if the engine starts acting up, whether the check engine light comes on or not, my advice is to shut off the engine and get Porsche Road Side Service to get the car to the nearest Porsche dealership for diagnosis and repair.

Sincerely,

Macster.

MBuhrig

Macster,

It is the display in the bottom of the tachometer that says "Check Engine, Visit Workshop". It comes on and stays on every time I start the engine. I have now read that it is commonly due to regulatory emissions issues, poor fuel quality, gas cap, etc. It should be recorded by dealer and reset but will typically go away with new fuel or after cap has been tightened. I would rather have it checked but the closest dealer is in Albuquerque. I bought it in Scottsdale but a little to far for something that might be a quick fix. I do not notice any issues in performance, so I will drive it a few days and get to the dealer if it does not go away late next week.

Thanks for the help.

Marc

LlBr

Aw Gee I HATE when that happens, sorry.

I'm not an expert but maybe disconnect the battery and reconnect. Follow instructions in manual of course.

Problem is this: if it goes off you'll wonder if something is still wrong.

OTOH, if it stays on you'll know it's probably "serious."

I'd try it, if it goes out you can pick the service technician brains for more info about what that could mean. Maybe he'll say you're fine as long as the light goes off.

Refer to owner's manual details: you might be okay to drive it. I seem to remember a couple "levels" of "return to shop" warnings.

TT Gasman

You may want to pick up an OBD scanner or Durametric cable to read and clear your own codes. Especially as you are so far from the dealer, a local Porsche independent shop should also be able to help. That said, the CEL is an emissions error, unless it's flashing it's not an emergency.

Macster

Ok, it appears the light is the check engine light and not the service engine soon light.

Check the owners manual but I'm pretty sure as long as light not flashing car is ok to drive. Be sure gas cap on tight. (I've read for some model years replacing the gas cap with a newer one can solve frequent check engine light events arising from a leaking gas cap. While you're at it with engine idling check that oil cap is sealed and not leaking. The oil cap on my 02 Boxster developed a leak that caused me to replace a MAF before I found the leaking cap the real cause of the goofy error codes.)

Anyhow, you can continue to drive the car I'll add as long as engine not exhibiting any untoward symptoms either.

As TT Gasman suggested picking up an OBD II code reader/data viewer that you can use to read the codes, erase the codes and examine in real time the engine sensor data would be a good idea.

I use an Actron unit which over the years -- since may '96 or so -- has paid for itself (approx. $250) many many times over. Durametric receives high praise though I've never used one so I can't comment other than to point out is it rather more expensive but more powerful.

If you take car to Albuquerque be sure to stop in at exit 160 on I-40 and have some Rudi's BBQ. Although I note there's one of these in El Paso. I spotted the sign and jumped off the freeway and stopped in and had some BBQ when I was returning to Livermore after leaving Fredricksburg TX last Sept.

Sincerely,

Macster.

gota911

Rudy's has AWESOME BBQ. The origianl Ruy's is just north of San Antonio on IH-10, in Leon Springs.

Macster

Never get that far south in Texas. Fredricksburg or Austin about as far south as I get.

It was nice when passing through El Paso to spot the Rudy's sign and get a good meal. It was a long haul across Texas and I was hungry.

'course, I could have eaten at the steak house out west a bit of downtown El Paso south of the freeway almost to the river. Forget the name of the place (Sateline?) but I ate there once and it was very good eating.

Sincerely,

Macster.

Steen Jensen

I had the same problem with my 997 C2. Disconnected battery , light went out and never came back on. That was over a year ago and no problems since.

MBuhrig

Ok... In the hopes of not making the 3.5 hour drive to the dealer (not a particularly fun drive), I purchased an INNOVA 3130 ScanTool. I will call the dealer with the code tomorrow.

In the meantime I would love some insight if anyone knows why I would get:

P0021 GENERIC
Intake Camshaft
Position Timing -
Over-Advance (Bank 2)

I got the code a few miles from my house. I did not notice any performance issues, rough idle and she starts up with no difficulty. It does not seem like there is a timing issue.

Thanks for andy input!

Marc

Macster

No engine symptoms then the error is very likely a bad or make that marginal connection with the sensor or actuator that reports its position.

Given this started with you washing the car and probably not the first time there is probably a marginal connector that allows, has allowed, over time some moisture in and some surface corrosion (maybe something more than surface corrosion) which affects the electrical signal.

Or it could be a transistory problem from moisture, though moisture will over time cause some corrosion.

(I had a 96 Mustang GT that from new leaked oil a lot. I'd have it fixed -- under warranty -- and either the service department would wash the engine or I would. Thankfully after 5 or 6 attempts the dealer finanlly sorted all the oil leaks. But a few years later the check engine light would come on and its was a camshaft position sensor circuit error. At no time did the engine act up. I finally got the motivation to locate and disconnect the sensor connector -- it was hard to reach/get to -- and then connect it. I did this several times to abrade any surface corrosion from the connector contacts. As best I could I examined the connector ends and could see no mechanical problems with either end. For the last time I plugged the connector ends together, securely they take some force to seat fully, and for the remaining several years I owned the car and drove it (every day) I never once again saw the camshaft position sensor circuit error, or any other error.)

My advice would be to locate the sensor and try the connector unplug plug "trick". Be very careful that you get the connectors lined up properly. You don't want to break a pin off or bend a pin on that connector. If you can see the connector well enough look at it with a bright light to see of you can see any evidence of moisture.

I'm not sure if this ok but some kind of dielectric grease that is water repellent used judicially would help keep moisture out of the connector. At the same time you probably when you wash the car want to put as little water on the engine cover as possible to avoid putting any more water on the engine and its electrical system.

If you continue to drive the car and if the engine begins at any time to exhibit any misbehavior this could be from a mechanical failure of the camshaft timing advance system or even of the cam chain drive's guide/tensioner system on that bank and you should immediately -- when safe to do so -- shut off the engine and avoid starting it. Get the car to a qualified shop and let them sort the problem out. Continued driving could result in serious maybe catastrophic engine damage.

Sincerely,

Macster.

TT Surgeon

Some guys have had a problem with the sleeve around the cam actually slipping and occluding an oiling port in the variocam mech. Hence, locking the cam in either hi power or lo power mode, while the opposite bank works normally, explaining why some describe a rough idle, others have no top end power. Usually the camshaft has to be replaced under warranty
See the 'broken cam' thread on 6 speed, once you sift through the 700hp kit nuances there is some helpful information.

MBuhrig

Thanks for the input.

Dealer told me today to reset it, if it comes back they will have it flat-beded. Which I do not have a problem with.

StevoUK

I've had this light on for a year - Porsche dealer said it was a transient very short duration error code - 18 restarts of the engine and it would disappear - it did.

So today I am trying a different OEM dealer (really good new dealership with great customer feedback) and they phoned about the light and said they will check it out - I wouldn't be surprised if its Cat related. (cats are 9 years old).

Car runs fine and returned 31 to the UK gallon on a Nurburgring trip at the end of April (860 miles).

I'll see what the diagnosis is tomorrow.

StevoUK

Ok heres the update.

The "Drive to workshop light" is caused in my case by a left engine bank emission reading being not quite correct.

Its probably caused by the catalytic convertor on that side getting to the end of its useful life after 9 years.

Since its not critical - the car passed its emissions test last August with a very good result, I'll see over the next couple of months whether I can get through the next test without changing the cat or whether I have to bite the bullet and change it.

Meanwhile the car is fine to drive.