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Adding this in here. I know there are a few of these floating around. This is the part list I bought to do the cam and coolant line pinning as well as I replaced my injector o rings as well. I tied everything to the parts catalog page and item # for easy cross reference when I got the parts.
Sorry for the bad formatting, pasting ascii tables doesn't work very well
*edit: I uploaded a csv version to make it easier for folks
I know (at least I remember) this connector (Air Intake Temperature Sensor) being snug in the rubber grommet, and now it's loose, kinda flops around. Maybe I lost a part of the back of the gromet, maybe it was never snug (which seems unlikely)? I couldn't find the part# 997-606-213-00 in the catalog to check.
Anybody have an idea?
it's not staying put
Maybe I need to really push the sensor into the backside of that grommet? I'll look at lunch
Last edited by moxie (SF); 10-20-2022 at 01:56 PM.
Yep, just pushes in there. Don't remember if it was lose or not, but there aren't any other parts. Little silicon oil on there makes it easy to push in.
Yep, just pushes in there. Don't remember if it was lose or not, but there aren't any other parts. Little silicon oil on there makes it easy to push in.
A bit of a hodgepodge post of what I've been up to n the last week. Good newsish news, I did start the car this yesterday morning just to make sure it ran. The car fired up fine, so I'll take the win. I didn't let it run for more than 5 seconds because I haven't filled it with coolant, so I don't know much other than it starts at this point. With that out of the way (I didn't want to put the car back together, fill it with coolant, and then find out it didn't start or did start but ran poorly), I spent most of the day installing the CSF radiators (my stockers had seen better days), I got the left and right in and should get the center installed tomorrow. Once that's done, I can fill up the car with coolant and really fire up it up and check the cam deviations.
Before I installed the CSF radiators, I spent some time painting them black, I don't like the look of bare aluminum, it's too visible from the front of the car.
laying down the 1st of 3 coats
center all painted and ready to be installed
getting the radiator installed
I'll also show off my cleaned up engine bay with the hydraulic clutch assist plumbing removed. I was looking for an evoms gt2 slave cylinder and bracket, but they were on deep back order, so I used a previously picked up BBi slave cylinder and plugged up everything with plugs from TheDeckMan (thanks!). I still need to install the master cylinder and flush the lines, I'll try and tackle that this weekend, very excited about having more predictable clutch action. I used a tap (10mmx1 & 12mm x1) on the brass fittings that are on the low pressure sides so I could screw the plugs from TheDeckMan in there ( I removed the red plastic lock and rubber seals, and what's cool about it, if I wanted to, I could easily put it all back), and then used some sealant on all the threads to help keep things from leaking. hydraulic hard lines all removed during engine pull
all plugged up
bbi slave cylinder all plugged up, not really needed, but I didn't want gunk getting in there.
looking good!
Finally, I really struggled with getting my torque solution inlet pipes installed. The drivers side was a tad short, and the passenger side was 3 to 4" too long. I got it all sorted, but it was a total PITA. I'm not sure if it's because I have an aftermarket airbox (Werks), but damn, that was unfun. I'm not sure if there is another way I should have installed them, but they really don't have a lot of options for fit, they just kinda are what they are. the drivers side is still a tad short, but it works. Not much I can do here.
this is a portion of much I had to trim. I put the clamp on so I had a guide and used a razor blade to trim it around the edge of the clamp. Took a few iterations to get it to the right length, and was a total pain to do with the engine in the car.
It's looking good now, I hope these are worth it.
That's the update for the last week. Tomorrow I should be able to fill up the coolant and actually start the engine and get it up to operating temp and check the cam deviations, look for leaks, etc. And if that's good, wrap up this project! Either the final days are here, or I'll have to pull the engine again if I screwed something up. I'll find out tomorrow either way!
Last edited by moxie (SF); 10-23-2022 at 11:57 PM.
I'm guessing it was an issue with the non-standard airbox.. I have a set of the inlet pipes and they line up OK with the stock airbox..
Cool pics..you're getting close!
PS. I'd save those lines you took out just in case.. I ended up buying one of the lines (had to be shipped from Germany) when I did my big project as one end got buggered up and I didn't want to hack up the ends to make it work..
I knew when I started this project there would be setbacks and challenges. Today I tried to check the cam deviation, filled the car up with coolant, loaded up the pentosin into the power steering reservoir and fired her up. The car sounded great for about 10 seconds and then it started falling off the rails, fast. A really bad mechanical sound started happening, and then the car turned off on it's own after a loud disconcerting sound. My stomach churned, but I knew this was the risk I took when I did the work. On the plus side, I would get a brand new engine out of it, the downside, my goal of a thanksgiving weekend cruise was ruined.
Then it hit me, when I put the belt on, I didn't remember tightening down the power steering pully onto the pump ( I had only hand tightened them ). As careful as I am, and the quadruple checking I did on everything (especially anything related to the block itself), when I got to the hooking up all the accessories, it was late at night, and I thought to myself "I'll torque it tomorrow", and then promptly forgot.
I took off the airbox off, and sure enough, there was the pulling limping around, the bolts on the ground. I cut off the belt, took the pulley off, hooked everything back up, started the car, and boom, sounded amazing, like really freaking good. Unfortunately, that means I still can't check the cam deviation until I get a new pulley (already ordered), and then I can finally see if the fruits of my labor paid off, but I feel good about from how well everything sounded, but this is killing me, I want to know NOW!
And here is my bonehead trophy I'll hang above my workbench to remind myself to pay attention. In the end, it was a $140 mistake (new bolts, pulley, belt), not bad considering all the mistakes there could have been. You can see where the pulley got munched on the power steering shaft.
Dont feel bad, it happens to all of us..
In my coolant project I obviously didn't get the Hen coupling fitted on the big hose near the water pump from the body.. Needless, to say, on my first full-boost blast after doing the work it let loose.. That was a mess to clean up after spending so much time on my spotless engine! All good though in the end..
also like the time I swapped my taillights to LED ones.. While installing, I dropped the screw that holds it in. It was late, so I just left it there and told myself I would find the screw or get a replacement in the morning..
A week later when I was driving down the highway, I heard some faint weird sounds in the back of the car.. what was that strange sound? Nothing in my rear-view mirror.. Hmm, very strange.. And then it stopped all of the sudden.. All good, I figured.
About 5 more miles down the road it hit me.. I go to tap the brakes and I get the warning light for a bad taillight.. Doh!
Had my detail guy come and polish out the light scratches in the bumper.. the old taillight hung on for a while before sacrificing itself to the road..lol. That was about a $400 mistake..
@moxie- Did you by chance happen to monitor cam deviation numbers before the teardown? Very curious to see the difference in deviation before and after.
Great progress! Glad the plugs worked out perfect! Those setbacks are always a PITA but also a great learning moment. Forgot to torque the bolts holding a throttle body on a Audi TT project that I was working on over years. Throttle body fell off going down the road on a test drive eek. Lucky for me could coast back into the garage!
@moxie- Did you by chance happen to monitor cam deviation numbers before the teardown? Very curious to see the difference in deviation before and after.
I did, there are somewhere in this thread, but here there are again!
And here is my bonehead trophy I'll hang above my workbench to remind myself to pay attention. In the end, it was a $140 mistake (new bolts, pulley, belt), not bad considering all the mistakes there could have been.
You can see where the pulley got munched on the power steering shaft.
Originally Posted by saabin
Dont feel bad, it happens to all of us..
+1
If that is all that happened on this project I consider this a success. As Saabin said... happens to all of us. My pentosin spewed out of my PS reservoir on the highway during the cars first road test after the repair. Made a huge mess and I had to limp it back to the shop with no power steering.
Like others have said, if that's all that happened you are good to go and you have a solution quickly. When I fixed some bent valves on an Audi that lost it's accessory belt and destroyed the timing belt in the process (an alternator securing bolt had let loose) I was stuck with why it wouldn't start. I rechecked timing 20 times, swapped out coils, did leak down and boost tests. After 2 weeks of pulling my hair out, I noticed I had the Power Output stage connections to the coils reversed. Swapped them and the thing fired right up - sheesh!
Fortunately there is no timing belt on the 911's to get mashed by the accessory belt!
Your deviation is within the spec (2.29 vs. max of 6) so the scariest part of all this was done correctly. I am sure you are eager to get that thing on the road again.
10-18-2022 | 08:38 PM
