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Wow that looks great! I wish I had the b@lls to do my own engine removal and installation - maybe some day. I paid a shop to clean my engine while it was out for coolant fitting replacement/pinning and it cam back looking nowhere near as nice as this. I like the black exhaust tips too! Are those Speedtech ceramic tips? I may have to swap mine.
Also to the OP - great idea using lumber to gain more height with the Quickjacks! I used the same trick with mine when I removed/replaced the front differential seals a couple of weeks ago. QJ are one of the best additions I have made in my garage.
Yes, they are speedtech tips that I got coated.
Not to hijack the OPs thread, but I did spend considerable time cleaning the engine and also the engine bay (when the engine was not in it!) I sat on my stool with the car on the lift and power washed on low PSI the engine bay, driveshafts, etc. etc. Not a obvious on an black car but I could imagine it would really be apparent on a white car.
Heres a pic of it back in and ready to start re-attaching everything.
I love seeing more and more people doing the work themselves. There are some great threads and resources on this forum for reference. Great job so far.
I finally have an update to the project. It's been going way slower than I wished (hard to find time with little kids), but finally got the engine out today, and now that it's out, hopefully the turn around is much quicker on the rest of the project.
I've been keep track of that I needed to do/take off to get the engine out, here's the list
Outside the engine bay Remove rear wheels Remove rear taillights Remove bumper & bumper crash bar Remove fender liners Remove intercoolers Remove underside protection Remove stability arms Remove transmission bracket (front and back) Remove sway bar Remove awd driveshaft Remove rear axles from transmission Remove starter Remove clutch hydraulic line drain coolant from coolant drain lines Remove coolant line across transmission Remove driver's side coolant line (I followed the FSM, but not sure why this needs to be done) Remove exhaust headers (not sure if this needs to be done, but it was easy, so did it in case it make pinning the cams easier) Remove engine ground strap (above drivers side turbo) Drain oil
Inside the engine bay Remove air box Remove y pipe Remove connectors on both sides of engine, next to tail lights (o2 & whatever else those are) Remove throttle body Remove oil filter bracket to get ac compressor out Remove ac compressor Remove clutch compressor connector. (It's a small single pin) Remove Power Steering Reservoir (remove all the hoses, the clamp and the bracket) Remove both coolant lines on each side of engine Unhook all fuel line and brake booster line
It was pretty straight forward to dop, the engineers did a great job thinking through how to get this engine out without too much fuss. The A/C compressor was a total pain to get out, as well as the high pressure power steering line (that bracket was a pain to get out to get at the actual line). Now that I have it out, it's time to disassemble pieces on the engine so I can do all the coolant pinning. I'm still a little nervous about pinning the cams & setting the timing for this car, it's way more complicated than my Z32TT, but I have a bit of time to do more reading to make sure I fully know what I'm doing before I dive in.
This forum and some particular youtube video's have been so critical in understanding the sequence and steps to get the engine dropped. The thing I was most nervous about was if I would have enough clearance to get the engine out with the quickjack TL's + SUV adapters using the harbor freight table lift without doing any modifications to the table lift. Good news! I had about 1/4" of spare room, which is all I needed!
It's been going way slower than I wished (hard to find time with little kids), but finally got the engine out today, and now that it's out, hopefully the turn around is much quicker on the rest of the project.
With the handful of these that I’ve done, I’ve found that once the project is at this point is where it becomes challenging and really slows down. Taking the engine out and putting it back in is actually the easy and “quick” part.
Good luck, nice work so far, and keep pushing forward.
Nice work. The A/C compressor is easy once you know the correct angle/position to orient it so it slides right out.. Kinda like one of those things that until you do it the first time it can be a real bugger..
As Xavier says, I have had a similar experience when I did mine.. The drop took 2 days (Sat/Sun) my first time.. Then the disassembly/pinning/etc. took a few weeks as I probably spent more time cleaning and inspecting than anything else :-)
Mine went back in probably as clean as the day it was installed in Germany..
I found the trick to the A/C Compressor was to loosen up the PS Pump/Reservoir first. The wiggle deal was much easier then.
Nice work, take your time, take copious photos and bag & tag everything. You need the tool to do the timing. If you have that just check, double check and triple check everything before buttoning it up.
Good tip on the A/C compressor! Yeah, I need to rent the tool from a member here (hopefully they are still doing that, otherwise, I gotta figure something out). I'm used to finding TDC on cylinder 1 when doing timing jobs (the screwdriver method), but this car tolerances are much tighter than my Z32TT, and I need to do it for both banks I read, then it seems like it's easy with the tool to do the rest. I still need to research how to be 100% precise with setting TDC.
Also, maybe somebody knows, I read something about maybe needing Porsche Auxiliary Chain Tensioners Set (https://www.toolsource.com/porsche-t...-p-114135.html) to keep tension on the chain with setting the timing, but I also saw videos where people just used a new chain tensioner itself to keep the chain tensioned while setting timing.
If anybody has an answer to that last question, that would be great!
You can buy a knockoff of the cam tool online for a few hundred if you can't borrow one. Might be worth a look at stomskiracing.com as well, they have a 2nd way to do timing outside the porsche tool. I read somewhere its a better way, and price is about the same if you are buying not borrowing. Document whatever you do really well if you can, its on my list and I couldn't find much for well done documentation on it. I did the coolant lines, rubber,o rings,water pump, thermostat, etc but not the cams last winter. I plan to do the cams next winter.
This is embarrassing, I'm close to getting this engine stripped down, but I can't figure out this clamp. It looks like it's permanently crimped on, but that can't be true, it must be able to come off? Am I missing a special tool? I'm used to working Japanese cars, and this type of clamp I have never seen. Argh
edit: I think it's "ear clamp", so now I have an idea
edit again: Okay, yeah, I have to cut it off, I'm guessing from the factory there were all these ear clamps and at some point, somebody cut the others off and replaced them with worm clamps. I'm also guess if you upgrade to something like the IDP plenum, you would have cut all the ear clamps and replaced them with worm clamps.
Last edited by moxie (SF); 08-24-2022 at 04:52 PM.
You have to cut it or pry it open destroying the clamp in the process. You can use a regular clamp when done. You cut or pry right at that loop at the top.
02-01-2022 | 10:08 PM
