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Hydraulic oil leak at reservoir - but still full?

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Old 03-12-2020, 10:20 AM
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Ryans Rebel
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Default Hydraulic oil leak at reservoir - but still full?

I'm relatively new to P-cars. I searched but maybe I'm not using the right key words to find answers to my problem.

2007 turbo MT. Have had it for a few months, driven a few hundred miles so far without any issues. Last drove it about 5 days ago. Yesterday I noticed the spill guard lip at the reservoir was FULL of hydraulic oil. There was also some on the floor. Interesting because the leak must have occurred after I parked the car, because there is no way the spill guard would be that full unless it was filled while sitting there stationary (any movement would have spilled some out). So, I check the level in the reservoir and it is to the fill line on the HOT side (engine cold - did not start it prior to checking level).

I assume this system only services the steering? Where could all of this oil be coming from? Over filled reservoir? Is this a common issue? If so I cannot seem to find any info on it. Any help would be appreciated.

Ryan




Old 03-12-2020, 12:14 PM
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Looking in the catalog, this system appears to service only the power steering. Last time I drove the car I did not notice any difference in steering input or response. Could it be as simple as a bad o-ring seal at the cap? Still trying to understand why there is so much fluid though. Is there a component in the steering system that is known to collapse, effectively reducing the volume of the system causing an overfill?
Old 03-12-2020, 12:18 PM
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Wait a second.........

Looking again at my picture it looks like there is fluid on top of the fill cap! Could that be dripping down from the hydraulic spoiler actuators?
Old 03-12-2020, 01:33 PM
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lliejk
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It's the same fluid, so yeah. Pop the cap of the end of the cylinder (with a rag below it - that crap is flammable) and see what you see.

Ed
Old 03-12-2020, 11:41 PM
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It’s not the spoiler cylinders. They are clean and work as they should.

Someone mentioned the clutch slave cylinder. My research tells me Symptoms normally include over filling front reservoir or puddle at front of the vehicle. I have neither of those symptoms. Only an overfilled rear reservoir. Once I had the rear reservoir cleaned up I rechecked the level, still at the “hot” level. I then pumped the clutch several times with the cap on. When I remove the cap to check the level I can hear a little pressure escape. Also the level went up above the hot mark.

I mentioned I’ve only had the car a couple of months. There was service performed on the car as part of the sale. Two items replaced were the rear reservoir (you can tell it is shiny new) and the accumulator. No record on the service ticket of the clutch slave cylinder being changed.

Oh yeah, after pumping the clutch maybe a dozen times it got really hard.

Indicative of a bad slave cylinder?

Old 03-13-2020, 08:09 AM
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You have a defective reservoir. The pentosin tank must be replaced. $1000 plus labor. No individual parts are sold for it. It has check valve that prevents back flow from the accumulator in your slave.
Old 03-13-2020, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryans Rebel
It’s not the spoiler cylinders. They are clean and work as they should.

Someone mentioned the clutch slave cylinder. My research tells me Symptoms normally include over filling front reservoir or puddle at front of the vehicle. I have neither of those symptoms. Only an overfilled rear reservoir. Once I had the rear reservoir cleaned up I rechecked the level, still at the “hot” level. I then pumped the clutch several times with the cap on. When I remove the cap to check the level I can hear a little pressure escape. Also the level went up above the hot mark.

I mentioned I’ve only had the car a couple of months. There was service performed on the car as part of the sale. Two items replaced were the rear reservoir (you can tell it is shiny new) and the accumulator. No record on the service ticket of the clutch slave cylinder being changed.

Oh yeah, after pumping the clutch maybe a dozen times it got really hard.

Indicative of a bad slave cylinder?
no
Old 03-13-2020, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by atcbi5
You have a defective reservoir. The pentosin tank must be replaced. $1000 plus labor. No individual parts are sold for it. It has check valve that prevents back flow from the accumulator in your slave.
Any chance it could be something else? Reason I ask is the reservoir was replaced 300 miles ago. Makes me wonder if it is something else all together and changing it a second time will yield the same result. See attached ticket from recent service. You guys may be able to read more into the comments than I. I'm still learning!

If it is the reservoir, is that a difficult DIY?






Attached Images
File Type: pdf
Service at sale.pdf (339.9 KB, 43 views)
Old 03-13-2020, 12:24 PM
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How long since the service was done and what is their guarantee on parts/service?

Ed
Old 03-13-2020, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by lliejk
How long since the service was done and what is their guarantee on parts/service?

Ed
The service was performed 3 months ago (December 2019). I have not checked with the shop YET. The real problem is the shop is 600 miles away. It was serviced near the point of sale, then the car was delivered to me in Louisiana.
Old 03-13-2020, 02:05 PM
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Was it by a dealer by any chance?

Ed
Old 03-13-2020, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by lliejk
Was it by a dealer by any chance?

Ed
No. An independent shop. A reputable one from what I can tell. I'm checking with them now to see how they could help if it is indeed a defective reservoir.
Old 03-13-2020, 02:28 PM
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A troubleshooting procedure is in the work shop manual. This procedure has several steps that test;
1. Accumulator
2. Slave
3. Tank( reservoir)

seems your pentosin is overflowing. Kevin and Ed probably could back me up in the diagnosis.


Last edited by atcbi5; 03-20-2020 at 08:09 AM.
Old 03-13-2020, 02:34 PM
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Make sure you check the level with engine cold. Maybe you have too much fluid?
Old 03-13-2020, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by atcbi5
Make sure you check the level with engine cold. Maybe you have too much fluid?
Maybe. But I can't figure how I was able to drive in on several different occasions over the last two months, only for it to leak this last time.

Would you recommend getting the fluid level down to the correct level (cold), taking for a test drive, then rechecking level again when cold? Or should i not drive it until I perform other tests, like to one you have posted above? Speaking of, what does it mean "if the clutch boost function does not last for an entire 24 hrs? How do you "charge" the system and then how do you confirm if the system is still charged or has "boost" 24 hr later? Test drive to charge the system, the push the clutch 24 hrs later?





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