SLOW crank to NO crank
 

Iv'e owned the car 3 years now and the battery hasn't been replaced since. Sometimes I turn the key over and get a slow crank. Other times I get nothing and have to repeat and it will turn over. And yet other times it will turn over but rev pretty high and loud like 3-4k RPM's. The high rev is on cold start but the SLOW to NO crank is both cold and warm. Hence, I can be somewhere away from my home and get the NO crank.

I put in a new Bosch bettery from Pep Boys this morning. Took my old one back to them to dispose and out of curiosity asked them to do a load test and they said it was a good battery RATED: 800 CCA, MEASURED: 780 CCA, VOLTAGE: 12.44V. GOOD BATTERY 100%, STATE OF CHARGE looked to be about 70% by the bar graph. So that might have been a waste of $.

After putting in the new battery the car started the same with several cranks before it turns over so it didn't seem to change anything.

That being the case. I have heard I may need a new clutch switch or starter. It sound's like the clutch switch being fairly cheap and in a location I may be able to do myself. That would be the first step.

Thoughts?

The clutch switch "normally" is an on/off proposition, meaning either it lets you start the car or not, so I am not sure that is worth your time based on your description. The rest is voltage and starter. You can do a voltage drop test at the starter as you crank and see if you have a wiring issue, though again, based on your description I would not put that as my first priority.

What I would do is get a rebuilt starter from Rock Auto or someplace and R&R the starter. This is mostly because I am comfortable with the starter R&R. I hate testing electrics.

However like I said, a voltage drop "could" screw with the starter's ability to crank.

Ed

Had a friend with 997.1tt 6spd with exact same problem. He thought it might be a bad ignition switch, replaced it...no change. Got rebuilt starter...fixed the problem. If I recall correctly it was ~ $1200 parts and labor at an indy.

Can you slam that starter with a good wrench during crank period? Idk if it’s easy to reach the starter on this platform but that might help you figure out if it’s the starter or not.

Could be the starter, could be a bad battery cable/starter wire, or could be a corroded positive terminal post on the firewall in the frunk (check this first).

Regarding the latter, which is the cheapest/easiest to fix, see this thread and/or my post at the end:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...esolved-5.html

+1. Also check ground connections.

+1
I thought I read someplace that the wire from the battery to the starter may not be one continuous wire on this model?
Bill

If it's a TIP, yep the wiring has been known to be an issue, for an MT, I haven't seen a single report of wiring issues, however corrosion at any of the connections, power or ground can cause an issue.

Ed

Just so I am clear what do you mean by R&R? Also wondering why go with a rebuilt unit if I can buy a new Bosch for $260-350? Wouldn't it just make sense to go with new?

Thanks,

Tom

$1,200.00 !!! That must have been for both the ignition switch and Rebuilt starter and Labor. I have no idea what the labor is but I thought it was just getting the car up on a lift and dropping the shield and accessing motor from the bottom. Wonder what a rebuilt starter goes for but again at around $350 or less for a new Bosch unit I don't know why I wouldn't go that route for new?

The ignition switch meaning for the key? Because let me tell you, my key wasn't being released so I had to replace that. Was quoted over $500 by my trusted indy, and after I did it myself with some seriously bloody hands and my 220lbs frame twisted in horrible ways...I should have just paid the money.

I know what you mean about the ignition switch R&R Mr. Aviator!

R&R = remove and replace.

The rebuilt with a core charge credit from Rock Auto for the MT starter was like $185 with a $60 or so core return refund. However they are not available as reman's right now anyway. A new Borch unit is $225. I have used reman's often (especially for starters) and have had no problems (so far). At the same time, there are items I will only get directly from Porsche.

Ed

I personally would get a new starter (instead of reman). The new starter cost isn’t bad at all.

EDIT: To the OP, however, I wouldn’t go replacing the starter unless you know that’s the problem. You could replace the starter and it might not solve your problem.

Starter, get the Bosch

I dealt with this on my car:

Aside from jerks at dealer leaving my main ground cable loose (causing high resistance) I replaced the following on my car.

1. 997-611-090-00 - $17
2. 997-607-034-04 - $34
3. 997-612-092-01 -$77
4. 997-612-908-01 - $233 --> Affects all 997 cars and I attached the service bulletin here
5. 997-610-916-00 -$164--> also needs to be replaced along with #4


https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...esolved-2.html




10/30/14 NHTSA ID: 10056330
TSB ID: TI-41-14

Porsche: if power distributor pin, on some vehicles, is corroded and cause has been determined, then pin on power distributor must be replaced. model 2005-2012 911 carrera, boxster, cayman.


I also changed the starter....Bosch new for $229 and it works like a charm. Rockauto and Amazon have awesome pricing.
Good luck! Here to answer any questions if you need me.