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SLOW crank to NO crank

 
Old 07-06-2019, 12:54 PM
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tguaturbo
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Default SLOW crank to NO crank

Iv'e owned the car 3 years now and the battery hasn't been replaced since. Sometimes I turn the key over and get a slow crank. Other times I get nothing and have to repeat and it will turn over. And yet other times it will turn over but rev pretty high and loud like 3-4k RPM's. The high rev is on cold start but the SLOW to NO crank is both cold and warm. Hence, I can be somewhere away from my home and get the NO crank.

I put in a new Bosch bettery from Pep Boys this morning. Took my old one back to them to dispose and out of curiosity asked them to do a load test and they said it was a good battery RATED: 800 CCA, MEASURED: 780 CCA, VOLTAGE: 12.44V. GOOD BATTERY 100%, STATE OF CHARGE looked to be about 70% by the bar graph. So that might have been a waste of $.

After putting in the new battery the car started the same with several cranks before it turns over so it didn't seem to change anything.

That being the case. I have heard I may need a new clutch switch or starter. It sound's like the clutch switch being fairly cheap and in a location I may be able to do myself. That would be the first step.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:49 PM
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The clutch switch "normally" is an on/off proposition, meaning either it lets you start the car or not, so I am not sure that is worth your time based on your description. The rest is voltage and starter. You can do a voltage drop test at the starter as you crank and see if you have a wiring issue, though again, based on your description I would not put that as my first priority.

What I would do is get a rebuilt starter from Rock Auto or someplace and R&R the starter. This is mostly because I am comfortable with the starter R&R. I hate testing electrics.

However like I said, a voltage drop "could" screw with the starter's ability to crank.

Ed
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Old 07-06-2019, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lliejk View Post
The clutch switch "normally" is an on/off proposition, meaning either it lets you start the car or not, so I am not sure that is worth your time based on your description. The rest is voltage and starter. You can do a voltage drop test at the starter as you crank and see if you have a wiring issue, though again, based on your description I would not put that as my first priority.

What I would do is get a rebuilt starter from Rock Auto or someplace and R&R the starter. This is mostly because I am comfortable with the starter R&R. I hate testing electrics.

However like I said, a voltage drop "could" screw with the starter's ability to crank.

Ed
Had a friend with 997.1tt 6spd with exact same problem. He thought it might be a bad ignition switch, replaced it...no change. Got rebuilt starter...fixed the problem. If I recall correctly it was ~ $1200 parts and labor at an indy.
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:10 PM
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Can you slam that starter with a good wrench during crank period? Idk if itís easy to reach the starter on this platform but that might help you figure out if itís the starter or not.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:56 AM
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Could be the starter, could be a bad battery cable/starter wire, or could be a corroded positive terminal post on the firewall in the frunk (check this first).

Regarding the latter, which is the cheapest/easiest to fix, see this thread and/or my post at the end:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...esolved-5.html
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Brainz View Post
Could be the starter, could be a bad battery cable/starter wire, or could be a corroded positive terminal post on the firewall in the frunk (check this first).

Regarding the latter, which is the cheapest/easiest to fix, see this thread and/or my post at the end:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...esolved-5.html
+1. Also check ground connections.
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:52 AM
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tinkerbill
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Originally Posted by murphyslaw1978 View Post
+1. Also check ground connections.
+1
I thought I read someplace that the wire from the battery to the starter may not be one continuous wire on this model?
Bill
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:18 AM
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If it's a TIP, yep the wiring has been known to be an issue, for an MT, I haven't seen a single report of wiring issues, however corrosion at any of the connections, power or ground can cause an issue.

Ed
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Old 07-07-2019, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lliejk View Post
The clutch switch "normally" is an on/off proposition, meaning either it lets you start the car or not, so I am not sure that is worth your time based on your description. The rest is voltage and starter. You can do a voltage drop test at the starter as you crank and see if you have a wiring issue, though again, based on your description I would not put that as my first priority.

What I would do is get a rebuilt starter from Rock Auto or someplace and R&R the starter. This is mostly because I am comfortable with the starter R&R. I hate testing electrics.

However like I said, a voltage drop "could" screw with the starter's ability to crank.

Ed
Just so I am clear what do you mean by R&R? Also wondering why go with a rebuilt unit if I can buy a new Bosch for $260-350? Wouldn't it just make sense to go with new?

Thanks,

Tom
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Old 07-07-2019, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by lflouie View Post
Had a friend with 997.1tt 6spd with exact same problem. He thought it might be a bad ignition switch, replaced it...no change. Got rebuilt starter...fixed the problem. If I recall correctly it was ~ $1200 parts and labor at an indy.

$1,200.00 !!! That must have been for both the ignition switch and Rebuilt starter and Labor. I have no idea what the labor is but I thought it was just getting the car up on a lift and dropping the shield and accessing motor from the bottom. Wonder what a rebuilt starter goes for but again at around $350 or less for a new Bosch unit I don't know why I wouldn't go that route for new?
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Old 07-08-2019, 09:55 AM
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The ignition switch meaning for the key? Because let me tell you, my key wasn't being released so I had to replace that. Was quoted over $500 by my trusted indy, and after I did it myself with some seriously bloody hands and my 220lbs frame twisted in horrible ways...I should have just paid the money.
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:55 AM
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I know what you mean about the ignition switch R&R Mr. Aviator!

R&R = remove and replace.

The rebuilt with a core charge credit from Rock Auto for the MT starter was like $185 with a $60 or so core return refund. However they are not available as reman's right now anyway. A new Borch unit is $225. I have used reman's often (especially for starters) and have had no problems (so far). At the same time, there are items I will only get directly from Porsche.

Ed
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Old 07-08-2019, 12:15 PM
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I personally would get a new starter (instead of reman). The new starter cost isnít bad at all.

EDIT: To the OP, however, I wouldnít go replacing the starter unless you know thatís the problem. You could replace the starter and it might not solve your problem.
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:33 PM
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Starter, get the Bosch
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:16 AM
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I dealt with this on my car:

Aside from jerks at dealer leaving my main ground cable loose (causing high resistance) I replaced the following on my car.

1. 997-611-090-00 - $17
2. 997-607-034-04 - $34
3. 997-612-092-01 -$77
4. 997-612-908-01 - $233 --> Affects all 997 cars and I attached the service bulletin here
5. 997-610-916-00 -$164--> also needs to be replaced along with #4


https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...esolved-2.html




10/30/14 NHTSA ID: 10056330
TSB ID: TI-41-14

Porsche: if power distributor pin, on some vehicles, is corroded and cause has been determined, then pin on power distributor must be replaced. model 2005-2012 911 carrera, boxster, cayman.


I also changed the starter....Bosch new for $229 and it works like a charm. Rockauto and Amazon have awesome pricing.
Good luck! Here to answer any questions if you need me.

Last edited by Turboslut; 07-09-2019 at 12:40 PM.
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