HPDE Prep
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
HPDE Prep
Going to Road Atlanta for my second HPDE event. Next week will be prep the car; brake bleed, check tires, wheels, brakes and coolant. Got a few questions on oil and what to change out:
1. Change engine oil, going with Mobil 1 5W50, should I go with Mobil 1 5W-50 Synthetic Oil or?
2. Should I change the Tiptronic and front diff oils also? If so any suggestions on which oil to use?
My turbo is a 2007 and only 11,500 miles.
1. Change engine oil, going with Mobil 1 5W50, should I go with Mobil 1 5W-50 Synthetic Oil or?
2. Should I change the Tiptronic and front diff oils also? If so any suggestions on which oil to use?
My turbo is a 2007 and only 11,500 miles.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 55
Likes: 22
From: DC/SC
I suggest also changing your Tiptronic and differential fluids. Although your mileage is low, you need to consider the shelf life of the fluids in the car. If not changed previously, you’re looking at 11 yrs on the original fluids. These track days put a lot of added stress on the transmission, and a fluid change wouldn’t hurt. I recently took my new to me 2010 out for my first track day with the car and changed all the fluids in advance.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,860
Likes: 1,629
From: Clifton, NJ
Mobil 5w50 is fine
I'd change the powertrain fluids, but Its probably not necessary if its your second ever event.
More importantly, are the brakes in good shape, what pads are you running, and what brake fluid.
I'd change the powertrain fluids, but Its probably not necessary if its your second ever event.
More importantly, are the brakes in good shape, what pads are you running, and what brake fluid.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
I suggest also changing your Tiptronic and differential fluids. Although your mileage is low, you need to consider the shelf life of the fluids in the car. If not changed previously, you’re looking at 11 yrs on the original fluids. These track days put a lot of added stress on the transmission, and a fluid change wouldn’t hurt. I recently took my new to me 2010 out for my first track day with the car and changed all the fluids in advance.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
I suggest also changing your Tiptronic and differential fluids. Although your mileage is low, you need to consider the shelf life of the fluids in the car. If not changed previously, you’re looking at 11 yrs on the original fluids. These track days put a lot of added stress on the transmission, and a fluid change wouldn’t hurt. I recently took my new to me 2010 out for my first track day with the car and changed all the fluids in advance.
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Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 975
Likes: 288
From: Burlington, ON
1. Fresh brake fluid and upgrade to a 600F DOT4 fluid considering you're flushing the fluid anyways
2. Consider some better pads than OEM. Pagid RSL29 are a good blend of performance, durability and cost especially if you're not running in the advanced groups (which if this is your 2nd DE, I suspect you're not)
3. You owe it to your self and the other people sharing the track with you to not show up running coolant unless your coolant fittings have been addressed; flush coolant and replace with distilled water + 1 bottle of Redline's WaterWetter. It's dirt cheap and only takes your tech an hour so there is no excuse for running coolant at the track. PCA UCR chapter here in Toronto mandates either pinned / welded pipes or waterwetter in any GT3 or Turbo with Mezger motor. A coolant line can fail anywhere at any time, regardless of skill level or group you're in. I personally run the water + WW as I don't have my fittings addressed and the car actually runs cooler than with coolant
4. Take a good attitude to the track, the 997TT is a lot of car for any beginner or intermediate driver! I know from experience as I also started tracking when I got my 997TT two seasons ago. I've just acquired a 2006 fully prepped & dedicated Cayman S HPDE car as I am at a level where it was time to make some major modifications to my 997TT to make it safer at the track, or buy a tool dedicated to the job. Went with the new tool option, who doesn't love a new tool
Have fun! 997TT's are awesome cars at the track and a ton of fun!
2. Consider some better pads than OEM. Pagid RSL29 are a good blend of performance, durability and cost especially if you're not running in the advanced groups (which if this is your 2nd DE, I suspect you're not)
3. You owe it to your self and the other people sharing the track with you to not show up running coolant unless your coolant fittings have been addressed; flush coolant and replace with distilled water + 1 bottle of Redline's WaterWetter. It's dirt cheap and only takes your tech an hour so there is no excuse for running coolant at the track. PCA UCR chapter here in Toronto mandates either pinned / welded pipes or waterwetter in any GT3 or Turbo with Mezger motor. A coolant line can fail anywhere at any time, regardless of skill level or group you're in. I personally run the water + WW as I don't have my fittings addressed and the car actually runs cooler than with coolant
4. Take a good attitude to the track, the 997TT is a lot of car for any beginner or intermediate driver! I know from experience as I also started tracking when I got my 997TT two seasons ago. I've just acquired a 2006 fully prepped & dedicated Cayman S HPDE car as I am at a level where it was time to make some major modifications to my 997TT to make it safer at the track, or buy a tool dedicated to the job. Went with the new tool option, who doesn't love a new tool
Have fun! 997TT's are awesome cars at the track and a ton of fun!
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: US
SRF is expensive compared to other brake fluids, but still pretty dang cheap as a performance upgrade. ~$55/liter, and 1 liter should be enough for a complete flush.
IMHO it's perfect for street cars that do occasional DE's, as not only does it have a high dry boiling point, but it will still perform great when not completely fresh with a high wet boiling point.
IMHO it's perfect for street cars that do occasional DE's, as not only does it have a high dry boiling point, but it will still perform great when not completely fresh with a high wet boiling point.
Last edited by pfbz; Aug 16, 2018 at 01:12 AM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,194
Likes: 33
From: NJ
Agree with all the suggestions. Road Atlanta is a bit unforgiving should anything go wrong, I would also check all the suspension points and make sure they are torqued correctly. I would change all the fluids and check to see that they are in good shape (i.e., no metal shavings, etc.). Finally, if you run 5-50 weight oil, make sure that you warm up the engine before gunning it and have fun.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
Thanks for all the input. Putting her on the rack tonight to start my track prep; changing brake, oil, trans and diff. I need to do some research on the coolant, never heard of the wet water however I do have track etiquette always thinking who's on track with me:::: be responsible and pay attention.
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 975
Likes: 288
From: Burlington, ON
Thanks for all the input. Putting her on the rack tonight to start my track prep; changing brake, oil, trans and diff. I need to do some research on the coolant, never heard of the wet water however I do have track etiquette always thinking who's on track with me:::: be responsible and pay attention.
Just one bottle + distilled water, that's it. Car runs noticeably cooler as well, compared to coolant. In the unfortunate event of a coolant leak on track, the distilled water + water wetter does not have the lubricity of coolant. It's virtually the same as just water being dumped onto the track, and much less of a potential for catastrophe if your rear tires get into it or someone behind you goes through it.
Our local PCA chapter has 1-2 coolant dump events per season. Not a guarantee it will happen of course, but the distilled water + water wetter combo is so cheap and easy there's just no excuse. Have fun and make sure the wheel is pointed reasonably straight when you bury the go pedal!