Originally Posted by ShatterPoints

Based on my conversation with TPC that is not the case. The PASM dampers are similar to every other semi active suspension. They have 2 damping profiles which operate on a % range. Something like 10%-75% total damping in "normal" mode and 15%-85% in "sport" mode. As they are only semi active each individual profile can adjust itself within the given range, due to latency in the system combined with dynamic road conditions the system has to predict what is best while not switching too abruptly between force settings so that you do not experience unpredictable behavior. The dampers as a whole are not "over dampened" most if not all factory cars are designed to be under dampened, unless you're getting something from the factory for track use where you may encounter critically dampened setups. Removing damper travel will alter how it performs period. Using the previous % ranges you end up changing the range, for example from 10-75% to 25-75%. With in that range the damping curve will be different as well, with less travel the piston and valving do not react to damper velocities the same as it would at factory ride height. As for wear that is more of a function of spring rate and how well it is matched to the available damping, usually lowering springs are stiffer than OE and as a result often do not match well with factory damper rates, you could also argue low pro tires assist in this issue as well since the tires too act as a spring to a degree.

The vast majority of people overlook ride rates when just putting springs on the car, across all cars I've owned this seems to not change much. I totally get the look cool factor if thats what motivates the majority of owners. Personally I was curious why keep the PASM dampers if the rears needed replacing AND he was already going lower. It would have been beneficial, again IMO, to have gone with a shorter damper to match the spring.

Originally Posted by Nate Tempest

I agree with most of what you said. When I say the factory 'sport' setting is overdamped, I mean that the amount of damping it is configured for on that setting is higher than would be an appropriate match for the factory springs. They do this intentionally to essentially virtually add spring rate in sport mode. And they want to do it to the extent that you actually feel it, so that it seems like the stiff setting "does something". In order to feel it in regular street driving, it has to be pretty extreme. That's why the DSC box turns the static damping in sport mode down considerably.

It also means there's sufficient headroom to adjust it to be appropriate for stiffer springs. I agree that the overall damping profile won't be as optimal as a shock designed for the shorter, stiffer springs though.

Originally Posted by ShatterPoints

Splitting hairs but springs transfer the weight and dampers modify how quickly that weight is transferred during bump/rebound. You have a disconnect with what you feel when driving vs what the system is designed for. Suspension preference per driver is 100% subjective with regards to attributes and not necessarily performance. Driver confidence is the biggest thing which skews a lot of setup differences. You can have a sub optimal setup but if driven more confidently than someone on a good setup and you'll do as good or better, certainly not woefully worse.

There are many camps for setups, for example "BBss" or Big Bar Soft Springs, which is what most of these semi active setups utilize takes advantage of the mechanical grip softer springs provide. Especially cars with minimal aero and factory ride heights, in order to control the spring motion in a soft spring setup you need heavier ARBs and more total damping. The main drawbacks are this works best on flat surfaces only and eats tires, I'm sure if you drove the car with stock springs on a smooth flat race track everything would be fine.

The DSC box does allow you to modify the damping ranges per mode but it does not restore the lost suspension travel. In other words your total available range of adjustment is smaller because of the loss of stroke/ travel. Think of it in terms of resolution of a picture, you have the whole picture but you don't have the space to fit the picture, so you have to down scale it to fit and you will lose information along the way. No matter how good your tool, ms paint vs adobe premier you cannot overcome the limits of the resolution. Thats not to say you can finesse a good result, but you're putting in way more effort than you would going with other opions, as we both agree.