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Old 01-19-2018 | 11:03 PM
  #31  
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Hold up a minute. Consider this - IMS failures affected some 9% of cars. As everyone knows, an IMS failure means the motor is toast. But what about the other 91% of cars to which nothing ever happened?

As to coolant pipe failures, generally speaking, a total loss of coolant does not immediately destroy the motor. So with something like this, why pay the money to preemptively fix something that may NEVER fail?

997 Turbo is an expensive car to own, no questions. I wish people would worry about the stuff that NEEDS to be replaced like the clutch, coil packs, and a few other bits that are hard to get to but must be addressed. Don't spend all your time focusing on the things that could fail catastrophically, because exactly NONE of the other cars are immune to engine failure due to Porsche design defects. 9A1s catch fire. SC motors lose their chain tensioners and the cam chain jumps teeth. All of the motors have their respective catastrophic failure points.

OH - and Military Police Officer here (National Guard reservist, Company Commander, Current Rank Captain, 3000 hours of patrol police work - been in 8 years HOOAH)
Old 01-19-2018 | 11:09 PM
  #32  
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What Catorce said.

My coolant pipes went at 89K miles. Conveniently coinciding with a 90K service. So I did a lot of "while we are in there."

Waste of money to do this sooner than when it actually happens.
Old 01-20-2018 | 12:09 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Catorce
Hold up a minute. Consider this - IMS failures affected some 9% of cars. As everyone knows, an IMS failure means the motor is toast. But what about the other 91% of cars to which nothing ever happened?

As to coolant pipe failures, generally speaking, a total loss of coolant does not immediately destroy the motor. So with something like this, why pay the money to preemptively fix something that may NEVER fail?

997 Turbo is an expensive car to own, no questions. I wish people would worry about the stuff that NEEDS to be replaced like the clutch, coil packs, and a few other bits that are hard to get to but must be addressed. Don't spend all your time focusing on the things that could fail catastrophically, because exactly NONE of the other cars are immune to engine failure due to Porsche design defects. 9A1s catch fire. SC motors lose their chain tensioners and the cam chain jumps teeth. All of the motors have their respective catastrophic failure points.

OH - and Military Police Officer here (National Guard reservist, Company Commander, Current Rank Captain, 3000 hours of patrol police work - been in 8 years HOOAH)

Thank you for your service!! I’m on my 12th. Master Patrol Officer and Master firearms instructor for my dept. assigned to special ops.

my comment wasn’t necessarily saying that I needed to do the cooling pipes before they went, just stating that these cars do have possible failures that would cost a ton of money and will put a damper on owning one for me at least. That’s not going to stop me from trying to purchase one though. I will just keep my fingers crossed.
Old 01-20-2018 | 12:31 AM
  #34  
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Threads like this are disappointing to me... here's why. It's just an asking price. If you LOVE a car, you go in and look at it anyway, and if you can't go in, you call them from across the country and "sell" the dealer in reverse on why $10k less is actually the correct price based on your research, other cars for sale, other cars that sold recently with similar statistics, etc.

My car was priced out of my budget but I offered much less anyway, thinking I'd have no shot at them selling it to me for "my price, not theirs". The next day they called me and said that the manager of the dealership liked my story, my enthusiasm for their beautiful car, my facts, my interest level and my commitment to close with cash - same day, easy peasy.

I got the car for a my price, not theirs.
Old 01-20-2018 | 02:59 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Steve 96C4S
Threads like this are disappointing to me... here's why. It's just an asking price. If you LOVE a car, you go in and look at it anyway, and if you can't go in, you call them from across the country and "sell" the dealer in reverse on why $10k less is actually the correct price based on your research, other cars for sale, other cars that sold recently with similar statistics, etc.

My car was priced out of my budget but I offered much less anyway, thinking I'd have no shot at them selling it to me for "my price, not theirs". The next day they called me and said that the manager of the dealership liked my story, my enthusiasm for their beautiful car, my facts, my interest level and my commitment to close with cash - same day, easy peasy.

I got the car for a my price, not theirs.
This is an excellent point. No harm at all in making an offer if you like the car.

Regarding repair costs, IMO they're in line with what you would expect given the price point of the car when new. The 997 Turbo is an expensive car, and repairs are similarly expensive. You probably shouldn't buy one if it's a stretch for you, and a few thousands in repairs would be a significant hardship. A catastrophic coolant leak is unlikely, but possible. A minor coolant leak is inevitable with mileage as the plastic elbows break down. (Mine were just starting to leak at around 50k miles. I was already doing the clutch and plugs/coils, so decided to go ahead and put in sharkwerks elbows and pin all the pipes while I was at it, so everything would be dealt with.) But all cars will need repairs; these really aren't huge issues. Just make sure you budget for the possibility, then enjoy the car!
Old 01-20-2018 | 06:27 AM
  #36  
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By the way, this is the part that usually fails and causes release of the coolant. It's the rubber that fails and literally bursts and the coolant escapes. The pictures were taken with my borescope camera. The area shown shows the slit in the rubber. The second picture, is the actual $96 part. Right return line coolant from turbo. To replace, you guessed right, remove engine. Coincidentally, the rubber end fits the right plastic elbow, one of three that needs to be replaced. In the 996 mezger turbo engine, no plastic pipes. The problem is once this happens obviously you will have to decide how much gets replaced. A PPI done correctly, will typically pressurize the system thru the expansion tank on the left and usually passes. All I am saying is just be advised.
Old 01-20-2018 | 11:41 AM
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So, can anyone post a recommended parts list to purchase NOW (for owners) and about what it should cost (given others who paid to have the engine dropped and work done)??

I'd like to know how much to budget and / or start collecting parts (if/when I purchase).

If there's another thread I need to be looking at for this ^^ info, please post link here. Thank you!

David
Old 01-20-2018 | 08:11 PM
  #38  
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Big Swole, thanks for YOUR service!
Old 01-21-2018 | 09:43 AM
  #39  
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I paid $8K at dealer. Parts, labor, and look for anything "while in there".

For example, new water pump and all the 90K mile service stuff I would have paid for anyway a month later. I love saving money for gas for road trips.
Old 01-21-2018 | 11:53 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by atcbi5


By the way, this is the part that usually fails and causes release of the coolant. It's the rubber that fails and literally bursts and the coolant escapes. The pictures were taken with my borescope camera. The area shown shows the slit in the rubber. The second picture, is the actual $96 part. Right return line coolant from turbo. To replace, you guessed right, remove engine. Coincidentally, the rubber end fits the right plastic elbow, one of three that needs to be replaced. In the 996 mezger turbo engine, no plastic pipes. The problem is once this happens obviously you will have to decide how much gets replaced. A PPI done correctly, will typically pressurize the system thru the expansion tank on the left and usually passes. All I am saying is just be advised.
Part #?
Old 01-21-2018 | 01:34 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Johnny DB
Part #?


Right


Left
I keep a set ready for the next victim. Requires engine to be removed completely unless you are an idiot and try to circumvent the process. Not you just saying in general.
Old 01-21-2018 | 02:06 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by atcbi5


By the way, this is the part that usually fails and causes release of the coolant. It's the rubber that fails and literally bursts and the coolant escapes. The pictures were taken with my borescope camera. The area shown shows the slit in the rubber. The second picture, is the actual $96 part. Right return line coolant from turbo. To replace, you guessed right, remove engine. Coincidentally, the rubber end fits the right plastic elbow, one of three that needs to be replaced. In the 996 mezger turbo engine, no plastic pipes. The problem is once this happens obviously you will have to decide how much gets replaced. A PPI done correctly, will typically pressurize the system thru the expansion tank on the left and usually passes. All I am saying is just be advised.
Are you guys saying the actual part that fails isn't the elbow fitting itself? If so, why replace with the same OEM part, assuming the root cause would simply bring about another failure?

So are these overkill?
Name:  photo136.jpg
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Thanks!
Old 01-21-2018 | 02:12 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by atcbi5
I keep a set ready for the next victim. Requires engine to be removed completely unless you are an idiot and try to circumvent the process. Not you just saying in general.
Thanks
Old 01-21-2018 | 05:16 PM
  #44  
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So are these overkill?
Attachment 1274845

Thanks!
no you do replace those while you are in there.

Last edited by atcbi5; 01-21-2018 at 06:33 PM.
Old 01-21-2018 | 06:01 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Tmistry
Are you guys saying the actual part that fails isn't the elbow fitting itself? If so, why replace with the same OEM part, assuming the root cause would simply bring about another failure?

So are these overkill?
Attachment 1274845

Thanks!
Not overkill, but essential.



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