P0003 and P0103 OBD-2 codes
#1
P0003 and P0103 OBD-2 codes
Has anyone gotten these on their 997.1 TT before? I’m hoping it’s just some bad fuel and just ran a can of Techron with some trusted 93 octane ethanol free gas.
Ive gotten the codes 3 times in the last 200 miles clear the immediately with my COBB AP and then they come back after about 50 Miles. Will report if they come back after this new gas in the car.
Ive gotten the codes 3 times in the last 200 miles clear the immediately with my COBB AP and then they come back after about 50 Miles. Will report if they come back after this new gas in the car.
#2
Has anyone gotten these on their 997.1 TT before? I’m hoping it’s just some bad fuel and just ran a can of Techron with some trusted 93 octane ethanol free gas.
Ive gotten the codes 3 times in the last 200 miles clear the immediately with my COBB AP and then they come back after about 50 Miles. Will report if they come back after this new gas in the car.
Ive gotten the codes 3 times in the last 200 miles clear the immediately with my COBB AP and then they come back after about 50 Miles. Will report if they come back after this new gas in the car.
P0003 and P0103 are standard OBD2 error codes.
P0003: Fuel volume regulator control circuit low. The expected volume of fuel is not being sent back to the fuel tank. This can be due to a bad fuel pump. The DFI engines require two pumps, a low pressure pump and a high pressure pump. The high pressure pump gets all the bad press but the low pressure pump is critical to proper engine operation. Even if the vehicle only has one the pump can be going out or the fuel pressure/volume regulator can be going out.
P0103: Mass or volume air flow "A" circuit high. The MAF is signaling out of range. Could be a dirty MAF. Have to mention although I've driven years/hundreds of thousands of miles I've never had to clean a MAF. Had to replace one once though. They may get dirty but they definitely can fail. Another possible explanation: Intake leak.
Have you or anyone been "at" the engine recently?
Not much you can do on your driveway. Replacing a fuel pump is not something for the average home mechanic to do even if the pump is bad and that's not been determined.
You can try cleaning the MAF I guess. Handle with care. You drop it you buy a new one. Avoid static discharge to the connector of the MAF and the wiring harness connector. Zapping the MAF is bad enough but the pins at the wiring harness go to the DME and if you zap that... Oh my.
Use a MAF cleaner, no residue. Clean over a white paper towel to see what if any "dirt" you remove. I don't expect any. Do not scrub or scrape or probe any surfaces. Just spray with cleaner and let the MAF drip dry.
Think you'll probably have to take the car to a qualified tech for a professional's diagnosis.
#6
Try removing the tune and see what you get.
I have the stage 2 tune and never had the codes. I agree with all of the above. Try simple fix ... good gas, injections cleaner, and clean MAFS. Then off to dealer ... don't mention tune 🙂
I have the stage 2 tune and never had the codes. I agree with all of the above. Try simple fix ... good gas, injections cleaner, and clean MAFS. Then off to dealer ... don't mention tune 🙂
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#9
If you can live with the car for a while with the factory tune active until you have real confidence the errors are gone "for good".
If you want to put the aftermarket tune back in you are then probably going to end up with the errors back again.
Not sure what level of support is available from the company that made the tune but maybe you can contact the company and see if it has anything to offer regarding the errors.
#10
Need to drive it extensively for a full drive cycle to clear ecu. Drive city and highway don't exceed 3000 rpm for about 45 min. Plug in a handheld obd2 reader if all readiness codes are 'ready' the ecu is reset.
#12
Ended up being cylinders misfiring. Shop said possibly due to ignition coils but also maybe spark plugs since the plugs have been in there for 23k miles and 4 years, and was able to sell that to Fidelity so Fidelity is covering the bulk of the repair. I owe about $650 out of pocket for the cost of plugs and labor to remove old and put in new, and difference in labor for the ignition coils that fidelity had and what Leith Porsche said. That $650 also includes the $250 deductible from Fidelity.
Since the exhaust was being removed anyways, I decided to go to the 3in Catless Speedtech system. Very excited for the visceral change in volume since this car is not my daily driver. Labor was quoted at $350 for that before military discount since most of the work is being done with the previous exhaust being removed for the engine drop!
Since the exhaust was being removed anyways, I decided to go to the 3in Catless Speedtech system. Very excited for the visceral change in volume since this car is not my daily driver. Labor was quoted at $350 for that before military discount since most of the work is being done with the previous exhaust being removed for the engine drop!