Matt Lane

Looking to expand input here from all GT3 track drivers, not just 996.

Thanks in advance for any input either here or in the initial thread.

Cheers

Matt

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-gt2-...r-or-both.html

Deansdream

Just spent $'s getting my 997 gen 2 welded. Search showed gen 2's are not immune. But you can get the pipes pinned or welded. Or, if you do neither, run water wetter. So when they burst, you're at least not dumping coolant all over the track.

shizzle

I had the coolant lines on my RS pinned, but I know others who welded them. I think either method is fine, but it really should be done.

I noticed you're in Montreal, so I would actually not recommend running water wetter unless you're storing your car over the winter somewhere warm. Here's a quote straight from Redline to this point "Red Line WaterWetter® does not significantly reduce the freezing point of water. If the vehicle will see freezing temperatures, an antifreeze must be used. Water expands approximately 9% upon freezing which can cause severe engine damage. Even in summertime, the use of air-conditioning can blow freezing air through the heater and cause freezing of the heater core unless approximately 20% antifreeze is used."

r6elmo

you can mix water wetter with regular coolant. I'm not sure what the percentages are so that it won't freeze it the temperatures you are encountering. I run water wetter full time in my car with distilled water and change annually.

many if not all motorcycle trackday organizations require water wetter, engine ice or equivalent be used.

Jake951

I've had my coolant pipes welded and I also use Water Wetter during track season. A coolant dump can still occur if a rubber hose gets cut or otherwise breaks down. All rubber degrades with age. When I had my pipes welded, I replaced every single rubber coolant hose to be safe.

chiffonade

all,

just purchased my 2nd gt3. had a 2007, now have a 2010. i do not drive my car on the track, and it has been in socal its entire life. is this issue a concern for a 100% street driven car with ~20k miles?

thank you

chillindrdude

As I understand it, it's degradation of the adhesive, accelerated by heat cycling. thusly, you see this early in tracked cars. But for even the garage queen and street cars, it's a matter of time.

CosmosMpower

Pin or weld, don't be a jerk and just run water wetter and pray it doesn't pop.

chiffonade

yeah, word. my car is cpo and has a clean dme which suggests to me it was rarely if ever tracked, but the loss of traction is what really concerns me. on the street there are trees and poles and pedestrians and other cars. 2010 (6 years) is probably the beginning of the problem window even on a street car.

can anyone recommend a good shop in the socal area that is proficient with solving this issue? might as well add some go-fast parts at the same time too.