CosmosMpower

On my .1 GT3 I feel like the rear alignment might be moving around a bit. I'm not sure if my rear toe is pulling out of spec since I run Pirelli DH slicks and completely stock suspension.

My car is not lowered so do I need aftermarket toe arms like this:http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...lnk-detail.htm

or do I just need to get some locking plates to keep the eccentric bolts from moving? http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...-plate-kit.htm

Is it common for the eccentric bolts to slip or is it just the factory rubber bushings moving around causing the dynamic toe angle to get out of spec while cornering? I don't want to buy parts that don't achieve what I'm trying to do.

Spyerx

i can't imagine running slicks with confidence without getting rid of the key rubber in the suspension....

But if you feel like your toe alignment is changing you should be able to visually see that on the eccentric. You can simply get a locking plate.

As far as slip? No, they don't if they are locked down right. As far as rubber moving around? Yeah, it makes a difference.

Key locations: lower a-arm inner links, rear toe links, upper dogbones in rear. Less critical but may be needed for adjustment: RSR compression links f/r and the pucks in the a-arm. Then sway bar drop links for proper corner balance.

CosmosMpower

Which brand parts do you recommend to replace the rubber bits?

Spyerx

ERP or PMNA.

on my car I have cup solid a arm inners, ERP RSR links, ERP caster pucks, tarett drop links, ERP dog bones, ERP toe links, ERP tie rods w/ bump. the front top plates are fine, rotate them if not already for camber adjustment. if you have dampers you can do a rear top solid monoball. some will also put the rs40 rear upright which has a monoball vs. a rubber connection for the damper (I don't have this).

ERP recently released inner a arm monoballs which are very well made. ERP uses the highest quality monoballs you can get. Mine have been on the car for 3 years, no play, no binding, no issues. You can also get a monoball cartridge for the stock inners, you press out the rubber and these press in and lock with a snap ring (ERP makes these).

CRex

Can't possibly run DH slicks with your stock suspension. Not without the car moving about all 3 axes like a Cadillac Fleetwood on pogo sticks.

I would do the LCA, toe links, thrust arms and dog bones in that order before going with slicks. Plenty of choices out there, the easy thing is to drop in cup parts, or go with the full setup from RSS/GMG or the many vendors out there.

p.s. if you're *really* pushing your street car on those slicks, your OEM bushings should be gone within days. The stress just gets passed on to the next weakest link until they break. And TBH if your original bushings are still intact, you may be better served to go back to DOTs or R6/7 as that's just more fun/$.

Spyerx

GMGs links are made by ERP (at least they have been in the past... )
RSS makes their own
All made here in SoCal. ERP has all their own manufacturing on site.
From shops that sell both: quality of the mono ***** on the PMNA and ERP units are better than RSS. I do not have first hand experience with RSS.

powdrhound

Get the Porsche Motorsport toe arms. The mono ***** on all the aftermarket stuff are junk, usually Aurora or FK bearing. Been down that road before. The rear PMNA toe arms are about $900 but well worth the money as they have quality German mono *****, bump steer shims, and utilize a pinch mechanism to lock in your adjustment vs. the jam nuts used on all the aftermarket stuff. You can also install the Tarett lock out kit since the eccentric is no longer needed.

CosmosMpower

I'm running old take off scrub DH's that are probably 5-6 heat cycles old when I get them, not fresh sticky ones. I'd guess they are fresh R7 level grip.

Do you know where I can find part numbers for these Porsche Motorsport pieces?

Also dumb question but why not just replace the rubber bushings with solid/spherical bushings rather than replacing the whole arm? It looks like these guys offer spherical bushings for upper control arm, lower control arm and toe arm.

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...ngs.htm#prod_4

Reading descriptions for aftermarket toe arms and dog bones most the vendors are saying these parts are needed to correct geometry on a lowered cars which mine is not. I just want to get the slop out of the suspension and make sure my alignment numbers are holding with sticky tires. Do I really need aftermarket arms or should I just replace bushings?

CRex

PM me your email and I'll send you a PDF parts catalog. The easiest path from there is to post on the Cup forum--teams have stuff to sell from time to time, beats trying to get a PMNA account yourself (not difficult just extremely tedious).

For the LCA you can right just replace the inboard bushing and then thrust arm bushing. Rest of the geometry--toe links, dog bones etc.--have rubber bushings pressed in, and are all-or-nothing changes...

bmwtye

Front toe arms part numbers:

Below is everything needed for 1 complete toe link, so double everything to have 2 complete links.

9973412319C
999.073.252.09
9973312489A
9973472339D
9973472359B (2)
9973472359A
99908401401
99908444909

Rear toe link part numbers:



You can get the complete set of front and rear toe links from Rhonda at fvd for about $1450

Be careful buying used as cup parts do time out.

CosmosMpower

My local P-car dealer has a PMNA account but I'll shoot you my email.

If I am at stock ride height and not messing with geometry do I need the other stuff or just buy the spherical bushings for those parts and press them in to replace the stock rubber?

bmwtye

Not sure if u saw it but just posted all the part numbers and who to get from on page 1. Also here is the rear cup etk: