ymc226

My local indy quoted 25 hours and $3000 to pin.

ILLCOMM

These are the things I am thinking about (2008 w/ ~15k miles)

- Coolant line welding
- Replacement of "J-shaped" hard coolant hoses
- Coolant flush, power steering fluid replace, AC discharge and recharge, and motor oil & filter change
- Removal and inspection of the belt driven accessories
- Spark plugs
- Ignition coils
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Fuel filter
- Coolant tank
- Clutch
- Rear main seal inspection/change

It's a lot. But since the engine is dropped...

F1CrazyDriver

I did everything you listed except the clutch, plus replace a bunch of rubber hoses, gaskets anything that looked like it had any age on it at the dealer cost me a shy of 5K . to remove and reinstall all the housing parts that needed welding for my price, was amazing. including the warrantee from Porsche is icing on cake. Not sure other shops offer a warranty on their work. My welder did such a good job, convinced Mooty to send me his 4.0 parts for welding.

boostedt0y

Indy shop recommended replacing the seals/rings since the motor was dropped. They also replaced the coolant with water/water wetter, motor oil, gear oil (did a Guard LSD rebuild too), and power steering fluid. I did not replace the water pump.

Tom@TPC Racing

Cost will vary a good bit between pinning and welding, of course. For pinning, the cost will vary depends on if the mechanic removes the castings from the engine for the pinning or pin the castings as they are on the engine. Welding cost more than pinning because the castings must be removed from the engine, and then have the existing pipes separated and the casting thoroughly cleaned and prepped in order for the weld to have good penetration. At our shop, we only do welding. After the welding we check the mating surfaces of the castings for straightness. If a mating surface is warp over by even 0.2mm we would machine the surface flat on a vertical mill. After that we pressurize the welded pipes with the engine on a stand using block off plates with a pressure gauge attahced for a period of 24 hours prior and monitor for leak prior to putting the engine back in the car. Unless the rubber hoses are fairly new, we typically replace all of them while the engine is out, and we check the water pump for play. Usually customers just proactively wants us to replace the water pump and thermostat, and check the cam actuator bolts while the engine is out.

So welding is definitely a more involved approach whereas pinning is a less costly approach. They both prevent pipe pop out. Either pinning or welding, should keep in consideration the cost of the "while the engine is out" to do items.

PS- BBI makes the best weld pipes that I've seen. I regret that I didn't use BBI pipes on my car.

ymc226

This is my list so far (thanks to to fellow members for ideas)

1. change transmission oil to PTX (customer provides)
2. change engine mount to RSS (customer provides)
3. install Function first transmission mount inserts (customer provides)
4. check pulleys and install new serpentine belt (customer provides)
5. check+replace hoses aside from main R/L coolant hoses which are to be replaced with new ones. (customer provides main hoses)
6. coolant flush + replace with Porsche coolant (non diluted)
7. check water pump/thermostat
8. change power steering fluid
9. check and replace seals/rings/gaskets (which ones?)
10. check clutch
11. check LSD and rebuild/change to Guards if necessary
12. RMS check (leaks a little but I expect it as I don’t drive it much)

Few points; the first indy I spoke with welded only with their billet tubes and suggested an upgrade to a 4.0 clutch and a Guards differential though I stated I didn't track and don't plan to track. Was this overkill?

Also in regards to the coolant, I remember reading that Porsche coolant shouldn't be diluted and is good for the life of the car. Is this correct? Since they are pinning, I think I'd like a flush and replacement with new afterwards. Supposedly rather then going with the expensive Porsche labeled coolant, some advise Pentofrost ++ rather then the PF SF for 2006+ models. Is this the correct antifreeze for the Mezger engine (2007 GT3)?

F1CrazyDriver

Good Call on function first mounts. I really like them.

if you are going to pin, flush. metal shavings will fall in the coolant system.

Agree w/ Tom, bbi makes best inserts. Those are a must if welding.

ILLCOMM

Never heard of them before, but it looks like they no longer exist. On their website it says:

http://www.function-first.com/produc...-mount-upgrade

sharkster

got plenty of the trans yellow (semi) solid here. I think those are better for street cars than the black:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=432

steve porter

Just wondering if anyone does a pre welded Kit,or are the housings to expensive or not available to not re use your existing ones?

ILLCOMM

The link I had was for engine mounts. Do you have them as well?