ddaudi

My 2010 997.2 with about 15k miles, about half on track, has an oil leak that is going to require dropping the engine to fix. I'm going to have the coolant pipes pinned while it is out. Probably also replace water hoses.
What else should I consider doing?

C.J. Ichiban

How is your clutch and your LSD?

NAM VET

When I had mine out, for welding, I had:
serpentine belt
fuel filter
plugs/coils

While you may be a bit early for the plugs/coils, it is so much easier and cheaper to do now, than later. I had a slight weep from the RMS, so had that replaced, but have since been told that pretty much they all do that, and not to worry about a little weep.

Be sure when you get your car back, since the shop has to change the oil, that they double check to be sure both of the fuel pump fuses are properly re-installed when your shop cranks the motor to prime the oil gallery, as in my car, they weren't and it cost me about $7 K a week later to fix that mistake.

all the best....

NV

runet

Sharkwerks 4.1l.
Merry Christmas

FJSeattle

This.

Larry Cable

+1

RS 4.0 LWFW+clutch and an LSD upgrade/rebuild ...

ShakeNBake

Wire or upgrade valve actuators

Spyerx

budget?

ddaudi

>How is your clutch and your LSD?
Bought car 2 years ago and clutch failed after 30 mins on track; so new clutch 2 yrs ago at about 6k miles.
Not sure about LSD; how to tell?

>serpentine belt, fuel filter, plugs/coils
Will ask shop about these.

>budget?
I've spent way tooo much on this car! But certainly looking to save in long run by doing what is needed now to make this a reliable track car needing minimal maintenance for as long as possible. I bought it to drive it, not to maintain it!!

FJSeattle

Put car up on lift or jacks and spin the tires.

Apparently the stock unit is not a question of if but more when -- its gonna fail.

Cheaper to do it now. Guards internals.

Spyerx

This was mine, quite a few things are preventative, but when it's out do it because if you have a hose or a seal or the expansion tank go...

Coolant pipes welded w/ BBI inserts,
Sharkwerks oil cooler pipes,
replaced all gaskets, seals o-rings, rubber hoses, clamps (everywhere, oil pipes, intake to plenum, coolant pipes... long list of these)
rs4.0 clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, bearing, clutch fork, shaft bearing
front/rear main seals
water pump
expansion tank
thermostat
new drive belt
996 cup short shifter
996 cup shift cables
Guard club-sport pro LSD
oil change
tranny fluid change
Cantrel transmission mounts
brake bleed
new front lip

911rox

In red above...

tcsracing1

I did an engine out this year for an oil leak.

Also pinned the coolant hoses. (with fresh hoses)
Replaced water pump. (just cause. Easy part to replace now incase it times out)
Fresh plugs and Coils. (was ovedue)
Guard LSD. (when engine is out, It is a great time for a worthy upgrade that you can feel)
Refreshed 1st and 2nd gear. (now is the time to give proper attention to wear items if you plan to keep the car a long time)
I also installed a 3.89 R&P. (for chits and giggles. So much better then the stock R&P)
(Also did a 4.0L clutch as my clutch was pretty much toast before it went in for service)

You can hit $15k or more depending on your gearbox if you go this route. But it is money well spent and love for your GT3 if you plan on keeping it for a long time.

ShakeNBake

(I can't stress enough the valve actuators, especially if you go LWFW)

Lots of awesome advice here. Challenge with the 1st and 2nd motorsport synchro (aside from being a ton of money, 2K+) is the clutch - it can't handle negative torque at this level. If you really are using 2nd on the track (like at COTA), you will destroy your pressure plate pretty quickly. I think you are better off with the RS final drive ratio, 3rd works fine at T1, T11, T15, T20.

911rox

SNB you mentioned the Variocam actuators... Other than a replace to the latest version are there any other fixes (wire?)??? As prevelant on the 997.2 NB GT3 as seems to be on RS and those 3s running RS LWFW????

Thanks in advance