tshih

Looking under a 2010 GT3 I see one has to disconnect the 2 rubber hoses to the sport exhaust baffles vacuum valve that makes the sound, disconnect 4 O2 sensors, remove the 4 bolts (2 each side) support bracket to secondary muffler, loosen/remove the 2 band clamps holding up the primary muffler, and finally remove the 18 (9 bolts each bank of 3 cylinders) torx bolts that bolts the headers/catalytic converters to the engine.The entire exhaust system should then drop out the bottom if I'm not mistaken ( unless one has to remove the rear bumper cover in case it is in the way).

Looking for confirmation of the procedure before attempting it (from someone on Rennlist who has done it).

Ur20v

Drop the bumper cover, bumper iron and heat shields- easy job, take 10 minutes and gives you great access.

I would also separate the side mufflers from the headers and the centre section for easy of removal, lifting and storage. Its only a few more nuts and bolts and will save straining the manifold bolts from the load of the full system.

Doing all this also helps when putting it back together whether you are refitting the standard system or a 'race ' system.

Take 4 hours start to finish with out straining- but as you have never done it before, add another 2 hours to just look and marvel at the engineering and allowing for OCD i.e cleaning and polishing surfaces you don't see normally

Ur20v

Note to drop the bumper cover- remove the tail lights- torx screws are inside the rear deck. There are 2 hidden torx screws in the top leading edge of the bumper cover where the rear wing meets the cover- just work your way around the outside lip and remove all the torx scews you come up against- I think there are 14 screws and 2 plastic clips (hidden behind the tail lights) that unscrew then up out with there 'spreader washer'

OS2 sensor wires are connected either side of the filter box so you will need to remove this to get at them and feed the wires out.

There are posts on how to do all this. Look for Mikymu and his posts for some DIYs - I think his post where he fits an Arkrapovic system will help you

Ur20v

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...onversion.html

tshih

Thank you UR20v.

I am interested in removing the driver side side muffler only to weld up a split seam. Any idea if the side muffler can be removed without taking the entire system off (i.e. minimal pieces removed to provide access to fasteners).

Ur20v

Added Link

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-nip-tuck.html

tshih

The repost for Mikymu's Nip Tuck is very helpful and quite awesome. I think I can remove the side muffler by removing the wheel, disconnecting the vacuum hose, the clamp to the cat, remove the 5 nuts that connects the side muffler to the center muffler, and finally the 2 nuts to the support bracket. The piece should be able to clear the wheel well without having to remove the bumper cover.

bovien

You dont need to remove the wheel, that only helps for access to a singe bolt holding the heat shield. This can easily be loosened with a short screw driver.

If the system hasn't been removed/restored before, you might want to get new gaskets for the three side muffler connection points to the rest of the system.

I just had my side muffler welded with exactly the same split I'm guessing. Came out beautiful.

neanicu

Soak all bolts and nuts,that are part of the exhaust system the night before,in penetrating oil.

Ur20v

Yes you can remove the exhaust with the bumper cover and heat sheilds still in place but ask yourself why? You are making it harder on yourself and won't save anything on the 10 minutes it takes to remove the cover and sheilds.
Eitherway good luck, its not a hard job (unless you are fidling around under the car with the bumper cover on )

tshih

I did have to remove the cat converter before the side muffler could be removed with the bumper cover in place. The job was not difficult since I have a lift in my garage. The mounting bracket as well as the strut support from the top of the wheel-well to the bottom of the rear bumper also needed to be disconnected at the 10 mm bolt on top. Thanks everyone for the helpful hints and supporting info.

PS the welding was effective but looks quite amateurish.