ard

Thanks for the responses, everyone.

Powdrhound would you happen to have a p/n for these?

Dervish, thanks for the detailed instructions. Sounds (still) doable with the transmission carrier in place?

Spyerx, I looked at the Wevo website; seems like there is only 1 hardness for the engine mounts? Asking because IIRC for the 993 there were different hardnesses available, distinguished by different color pillows.

Yes, I too am surprised at the occasional hiccup in going 2nd-to-3rd on the street since it has happened a few times while accelerating moderately hard in a straight line - nothing out of the ordinary in terms of lateral forces. Feels like I can't find the gate for 3rd. Have been driving manuals for a long time so I somewhat doubt it is poor technique but I'll experiment a bit more.

Bottom line, the consensus seems like not much gained from tackling the shifter cables while the engine is out, other than having the car up in the air.

Thanks

/alex

993GT

Alex, 100% correct, cables are easy engine/trans in or out.
Cables won't fix the 2-3 issue...its the trans moving around...find a local Pcar shop and ask for a beat/used 996/997 Tt/GT3/GT2 trans mount, put in cheap SS or solid bushings and see if you have the issue...

Function-First

You could also give our inserts a shot - they don't require any modification to your existing parts.

They are the only Trans Mount Inserts that are supplemental to the OEM mount bushings.
(The other inserts on the market require pressing the OEM bushings out of the trans carrier with a shop press.)
The main benefit with this setup is ease of installation, and ease of returning the car to stock form.

Choose between three hardness levels:
TRACK - Black (80A) for optimized performance
STREET - Yellow (70A) for less NVH
SOFT - Orange (60A) to restore the original OEM mount stiffness

There has been very little reported additional intrusive NVH with the STREET version, so it's ideal for those of you concerned with keeping the car streetable. However, with the GT3/Turbo trans mounts in particular, there is very little NVH penalty even with the harder inserts, so for those of you interested more in the performance benefits I recommend the original TRACK version for spirited street driving, AutoX, and DE/Track.



(997 Turbo/GT2/GT3 model shown with STREET hardness inserts)

Chris in Japan

With this kit is it recommended to change to Cup cables?

Was planning to go CAE shifter and cables, but this may save some $.

Function-First

The SHIFT-RIGHT Solution addresses the shortcomings of the OEM shifter box, but there are other parts of the system that can be improved upon for ultimate shifter action (ie. shifter cables, shift ****, engine/transmission mount, transmission fluid).

So if you're interested in experiencing the best shifter action, all those areas would need to be addressed.

(I'm actually not a fan of the cable ends that the Cup cables use. They're generic gas spring ball socket end fittings and they're not toleranced to the transmission selector arm ball stud ends. So although they eliminate the flex over the OEM plastic/rubber ends, there's quite a bit of free play due to the loose tolerances.)

Chris in Japan

I already have your transmission mount inserts, which are great BTW, and WEVO engine mounts.

Which cables would you recommend?

runet

I have the cup cables with stock 997 shifter, and between appr. 2500-3000 rpm I have quite a bit of noise from the shifter, sounds like some sort of rattling. If I put just the slightest pressure on the shifter with my fingers it goes away, and it is not present at any other RPMs either. I suspect its the cable connection to the shifter that has some play, but it could of course be something else in the shifter that vibrates as well. Any suggestions? Is it possible to change the cable connectors/ends with something that eliminates play and noise, like the Numeric cables uses that are said to have better connections in this regard?

Dervish

I did it on jack stands so it is do-able. Getting the rubber 'bung' back in from under the car is almost impossible without removing transmission carrier. There is just no room to get you hand in to position the 3 cables. In the end I reversed the process and hammered in from the inside of the cabin. Same effect of sealing the cabin from noise and outside moisture.

Regarding NVH, I went to RSS mounts from 964RS mounts and the increased noise covers any additional increase using CAE HD cables (previously Numeric). And that's with LWFW. After a while you forget about it anyway and just get on with the smiles per mile.