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LSD upgrade?

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Old 04-08-2015, 03:05 PM
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tcsracing1
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Default LSD upgrade?

I have been running a stock LSD with shims forever.

If i wanted to upgrade to a proper diff, is it easier to perform with the engine out or does it matter?
Old 04-08-2015, 03:14 PM
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GTgears
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It is easier with the engine out because to put in an all new LSD requires removing the gearbox and setting the new backlash on the bench. You still have to undo the CVs and shift linkage, but it is simpler with the engine out of the way.

I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.

Regards,

Matt
Old 04-08-2015, 04:16 PM
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tcsracing1
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Originally Posted by GTgears
It is easier with the engine out because to put in an all new LSD requires removing the gearbox and setting the new backlash on the bench. You still have to undo the CVs and shift linkage, but it is simpler with the engine out of the way.

I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.

Regards,

Matt
Thank Matt.
I do not really need a LSD as your shims have been working well thus far but I am in the middle of an engine out service so now would be the wise time to put in a proper diff.
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:15 PM
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RSRanger
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Originally Posted by tcsracing1
Thank Matt.
I do not really need a LSD as your shims have been working well thus far but I am in the middle of an engine out service so now would be the wise time to put in a proper diff.
PM'd
Oh Tom you quiet guy, are you sneaking in an engine build

Ranger
Old 04-08-2015, 09:11 PM
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bmwtye
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Originally Posted by GTgears
It is easier with the engine out because to put in an all new LSD requires removing the gearbox and setting the new backlash on the bench. You still have to undo the CVs and shift linkage, but it is simpler with the engine out of the way.

I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.

Regards,

Matt
Does that mean you only have the billet units, or just the internals for the oem housing?

Ive searched and have read the threads, and I know its better to re-gear the tranny, but curious if anyone with a .1 has swapped the R&P and what were the results of that.Not just from a track perspective, but from street perspective too
Old 04-09-2015, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RSRanger
Oh Tom you quiet guy, are you sneaking in an engine build

Ranger
Just spring cleaning... plugs, coils and pinning the coolant hoses....

Engine still has lots of life. But when the day comes....
Old 04-09-2015, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by bmwtye
Does that mean you only have the billet units, or just the internals for the oem housing?

Ive searched and have read the threads, and I know its better to re-gear the tranny, but curious if anyone with a .1 has swapped the R&P and what were the results of that.Not just from a track perspective, but from street perspective too
Totally worth it imho
The 3.89 from the .2rs or the 4.0
Went from stock 3.44 to 4.0 on my 996 - worth every penny

My RS i put in guard's 4.125 and regeared - expensive
The 3.89 was not available as a part only at the time and I wanted to try the re-gear route

It is an absolute no brainer if you are not going to regear but I think the old 5th to 6th and replace 3, 4, 5 with shorter gears is roughly the same money - keeps 1 and 2 and standard "length" and shortens the fun gears

Old hat for Matt - he can talk you through it
Old 04-09-2015, 01:22 AM
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mooty
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Originally Posted by tcsracing1
Just spring cleaning... plugs, coils and pinning the coolant hoses....

Engine still has lots of life. But when the day comes....
and dont forget 4.5L
Old 04-09-2015, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by P.J.S.
Totally worth it imho
The 3.89 from the .2rs or the 4.0
Went from stock 3.44 to 4.0 on my 996 - worth every penny

My RS i put in guard's 4.125 and regeared - expensive
The 3.89 was not available as a part only at the time and I wanted to try the re-gear route

It is an absolute no brainer if you are not going to regear but I think the old 5th to 6th and replace 3, 4, 5 with shorter gears is roughly the same money - keeps 1 and 2 and standard "length" and shortens the fun gears

Old hat for Matt - he can talk you through it
What would you suggest for a .1RS that is going back to mainly street duty but still enjoys a casual track day?
Old 04-09-2015, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tcsracing1
What would you suggest for a .1RS that is going back to mainly street duty but still enjoys a casual track day?
in order of preference
1. Regear as described above to keep 1/2 length
2. 3.89 (standard in .2RS)
3. 4.0

Improves street and track
Wakes the car up
Imho it's the primary seat of the pants difference between .2 gt3 and .2RS (3.44 vs 3.89)
I think the 3.44 makes driving the car well more difficult
Old 04-09-2015, 02:06 AM
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Does shims=guard LSD in factory housing vs a full aftermarket billet LSD pumpkin assembly?
Old 04-09-2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CosmosMpower
Does shims=guard LSD in factory housing vs a full aftermarket billet LSD pumpkin assembly?
I had some GT shims installed into my worn factory LSD to make up for lost grip...
It is not as good as going full meal deal LSD. It is a quick fix if anything, but lasted me a long time. Still works to this day.
You can hear it grinding when you are in parking lots taking tight turns lol.

But realistically i want a real deal LSD now that engine is out as I am keeping this car forever.

Next time engine is out im going 4.2!
Old 04-09-2015, 04:19 PM
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GTgears
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Originally Posted by tcsracing1
What would you suggest for a .1RS that is going back to mainly street duty but still enjoys a casual track day?
I'm going to differ from PJ on this one. If it were my car, I would get the now available 3.89 RS ring and pinion set. On a street car, you don't want the tall 1st gear we put in his car. And it's not money wisely spent, IMO.

On PJ's build, we actually left 3rd and 4th almost stock. Those gears have good drops from the factory. The main point of the mainshaft was being able to improve 2nd for the track.

If you want to get 75% of the performance he gained do the 3.89 and change out 5th and 6th.

On the re-shimming question, there's two things at play. Adding the higher tension thicker bell. washers will eek more life out of the OEM LSD by increasing the preload and bite. However, what it doesn't do is get rid of the crappy ramp angles on the stock pressure rings.

In addition to our clutches having more bite than the stock ones, the ramps let the LSD clamp more effectively. Stock ramps are 28/40 locking factor. Ours are 40/60. Reshimming will get you preload that helps mitigate the tail wag on corner entry. What it won't get you is more aggressive lock on throttle when your inside wheel starts to spin. You are still going to get a lot of spin when the ramps go active. With our ramps, that goes down substantially.
Old 04-09-2015, 06:18 PM
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Just for clarity - I was not suggesting a regear to match my set up

Do what Matt says - I did - happy
Old 04-10-2015, 03:03 AM
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^ dont strain yourself. i pay for expert advice. tell matt what you are after, DONE.


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