LSD upgrade?
#1
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I have been running a stock LSD with shims forever.
If i wanted to upgrade to a proper diff, is it easier to perform with the engine out or does it matter?
If i wanted to upgrade to a proper diff, is it easier to perform with the engine out or does it matter?
#2
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It is easier with the engine out because to put in an all new LSD requires removing the gearbox and setting the new backlash on the bench. You still have to undo the CVs and shift linkage, but it is simpler with the engine out of the way.
I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.
Regards,
Matt
I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.
Regards,
Matt
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It is easier with the engine out because to put in an all new LSD requires removing the gearbox and setting the new backlash on the bench. You still have to undo the CVs and shift linkage, but it is simpler with the engine out of the way.
I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.
Regards,
Matt
I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.
Regards,
Matt
I do not really need a LSD as your shims have been working well thus far but I am in the middle of an engine out service so now would be the wise time to put in a proper diff.
PM'd
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It is easier with the engine out because to put in an all new LSD requires removing the gearbox and setting the new backlash on the bench. You still have to undo the CVs and shift linkage, but it is simpler with the engine out of the way.
I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.
Regards,
Matt
I currently have no stock of all new LSDs if you are considering upgrading to one of our billet units.
Regards,
Matt
Ive searched and have read the threads, and I know its better to re-gear the tranny, but curious if anyone with a .1 has swapped the R&P and what were the results of that.Not just from a track perspective, but from street perspective too
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Does that mean you only have the billet units, or just the internals for the oem housing?
Ive searched and have read the threads, and I know its better to re-gear the tranny, but curious if anyone with a .1 has swapped the R&P and what were the results of that.Not just from a track perspective, but from street perspective too
Ive searched and have read the threads, and I know its better to re-gear the tranny, but curious if anyone with a .1 has swapped the R&P and what were the results of that.Not just from a track perspective, but from street perspective too
The 3.89 from the .2rs or the 4.0
Went from stock 3.44 to 4.0 on my 996 - worth every penny
My RS i put in guard's 4.125 and regeared - expensive
The 3.89 was not available as a part only at the time and I wanted to try the re-gear route
It is an absolute no brainer if you are not going to regear but I think the old 5th to 6th and replace 3, 4, 5 with shorter gears is roughly the same money - keeps 1 and 2 and standard "length" and shortens the fun gears
Old hat for Matt - he can talk you through it
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#9
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Totally worth it imho
The 3.89 from the .2rs or the 4.0
Went from stock 3.44 to 4.0 on my 996 - worth every penny
My RS i put in guard's 4.125 and regeared - expensive
The 3.89 was not available as a part only at the time and I wanted to try the re-gear route
It is an absolute no brainer if you are not going to regear but I think the old 5th to 6th and replace 3, 4, 5 with shorter gears is roughly the same money - keeps 1 and 2 and standard "length" and shortens the fun gears
Old hat for Matt - he can talk you through it
The 3.89 from the .2rs or the 4.0
Went from stock 3.44 to 4.0 on my 996 - worth every penny
My RS i put in guard's 4.125 and regeared - expensive
The 3.89 was not available as a part only at the time and I wanted to try the re-gear route
It is an absolute no brainer if you are not going to regear but I think the old 5th to 6th and replace 3, 4, 5 with shorter gears is roughly the same money - keeps 1 and 2 and standard "length" and shortens the fun gears
Old hat for Matt - he can talk you through it
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1. Regear as described above to keep 1/2 length
2. 3.89 (standard in .2RS)
3. 4.0
Improves street and track
Wakes the car up
Imho it's the primary seat of the pants difference between .2 gt3 and .2RS (3.44 vs 3.89)
I think the 3.44 makes driving the car well more difficult
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It is not as good as going full meal deal LSD. It is a quick fix if anything, but lasted me a long time. Still works to this day.
You can hear it grinding when you are in parking lots taking tight turns lol.
But realistically i want a real deal LSD now that engine is out as I am keeping this car forever.
Next time engine is out im going 4.2!
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#13
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On PJ's build, we actually left 3rd and 4th almost stock. Those gears have good drops from the factory. The main point of the mainshaft was being able to improve 2nd for the track.
If you want to get 75% of the performance he gained do the 3.89 and change out 5th and 6th.
On the re-shimming question, there's two things at play. Adding the higher tension thicker bell. washers will eek more life out of the OEM LSD by increasing the preload and bite. However, what it doesn't do is get rid of the crappy ramp angles on the stock pressure rings.
In addition to our clutches having more bite than the stock ones, the ramps let the LSD clamp more effectively. Stock ramps are 28/40 locking factor. Ours are 40/60. Reshimming will get you preload that helps mitigate the tail wag on corner entry. What it won't get you is more aggressive lock on throttle when your inside wheel starts to spin. You are still going to get a lot of spin when the ramps go active. With our ramps, that goes down substantially.
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^ dont strain yourself. i pay for expert advice. tell matt what you are after, DONE.