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Thoughts on the car after my first track day

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Old 01-12-2015 | 09:21 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
Welcome to the sinkhole.
I've a set of fikse what would look pimp on that green RS. I've not run r888. Everyone (not just here, but everyone) I have talked to has said they go off really fast. NT01 is way better. Those old RA1 rears, they work nice, surprisingly good for their age. Little more rotation than NT01 but wear good and are CHEAP!!!! I have 1.5 sets left... then off to the nittos collecting dust in my garage.
not a rs, just a gt3. I quite like the ra1, that's the tire I ran on the miata before the ra1 so I know how they slide pretty well. never driven nt01s though. i'm in talks with mooty about those ra1s though!


Tranny... if you have to ask.... if all it is is synchos it'll be mostly labor as those parts aren't very expensive. But then there is all the 'while in there' stuff. If your diff is original, its gone. Get that done. Guard clubsport or pro are sweet. Or just do a rebuild with their ramps.
the rebuilt unit was my original plan when sharkwerks had the car apart but apparently their turn around is a little slow so i didn't want to put my weekend at risk.

On the fluid, drain and fill with Delvac. Seems to stand up to track temps better. It's what factory uses on cup cars too.
i think this is my first course of action, also slowing down my shifts.

Who did your alignment? TCD? I would tell Tony what you felt in the car and have him adjust. There are too many variables here :-) but first step is tires and ensure diff is good.
yeah, tcd did the whole setup. will be there tomorrow to chat about it...and my future dash

What do the fast guys run with this config? I barely broke 2:10 but it was my first time on that track and I'm a really slow learner.
not sure, but my buddy with a 3.8rs is running 2:00 flat with nt01s, steel brakes, and stock suspension (i think).
Old 01-12-2015 | 09:25 PM
  #17  
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Bring that RS out to Buttonwillow.
Old 01-12-2015 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ngng
Trans fluid flush is simple enough, I'll do that first. Any idea what the avg cost of a trans rebuild is? Already have the 4.0 LWFW

LSD needs to be replaced for sure, I'm going to throw her on the lift and send the diff to get rebuilt. Need to find some shop time though, lots of people using it lately!
I think you should prepare to spend some more money. That 3-2 grinding is likely going to require the replacement of the shaft which includes second gear, IIRC.
Old 01-13-2015 | 12:27 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ngng
...- Gas pedal position is too low and makes it difficulty to heel toe consistently. I have some SRP pedals that I am planning on installing, any idea if this will solve my problem?
I have lowered the brake pedal on both my cars, really like it....

GT3 mod is identical to Cayman mod.....

Old 01-13-2015 | 12:57 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ngng

Yeah, I'm braking REALLY early. Trying to brake late ABS would lock up and I'd get progressively worse brakes through the session. Running Stoptech 660 fluid (fresh before the event, and flushed it for the second day). Pads are the Stoptech 34 compound. Running the Stoptech Trophy kit in front and rear.


By extender, do you mean the side piece? If, so, yes.
I like rennline extender. There is also srp pedals which are nice.

Maybe pads too agressive for tires and track and street abs.
When I was there I ran pfc 08 Brembo type 3 on Oem calipers endless fluid nitto ra1 tires braking was fine. That track has good traction.

Might be worth a call to stop tech. Maybe 33 compound?
Old 01-13-2015 | 11:02 PM
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The grinding seems a bit harsh and it is worth having it checked. FWIW, I just had one synchro replaced along with the contact bearings which are wear items and can sound like axles going bad. The parts were not bad, 16 hours of labor. Overall the job was less than expected.
Old 01-14-2015 | 02:29 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RobT 394
The grinding seems a bit harsh and it is worth having it checked. FWIW, I just had one synchro replaced along with the contact bearings which are wear items and can sound like axles going bad. The parts were not bad, 16 hours of labor. Overall the job was less than expected.
Curious how many miles and/or track time on yours?
Old 01-14-2015 | 04:52 PM
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If your lsd is toast laptimes will suffer. My 6 was doing 2:00-2:01 over the top. When my LSD fried couldn't get below 2:06. Can't brake late can't powerout/rotate. Your lines looks pretty good to me considering it was your 1st time in the 7 maybe some titer turns u could late apex abit vs going into a corner like a miata : ). Has great success with castrol srf brake fluid and delvac tranny fluid for track. Never had grinding doing a downshift but the 2-3 upshift if I go to fast under full load it won't go in- yanked my oem shift link off one time forcing it into 3rd. Mike
Old 01-15-2015 | 11:51 AM
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Heel toe blipping the 3-2 downshift will do wonders for your synchro wear. Though you may already have engagement teeth damage, which will require a new mainshaft, as was mentioned.

Please don't every out Redline in a Porsche transmission. Way too slippery. Increases the wear on synchros. It's a street oil, no matter what their marketing machine tells you. Delvac is a great choice.
Old 01-15-2015 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by GTgears
Heel toe blipping the 3-2 downshift will do wonders for your synchro wear. Though you may already have engagement teeth damage, which will require a new mainshaft, as was mentioned.

Please don't every put Redline in a Porsche transmission. Way too slippery. Increases the wear on synchros. It's a street oil, no matter what their marketing machine tells you. Delvac is a great choice.
Good to know, is Delvac better than Porsche OEM?
Old 01-15-2015 | 12:55 PM
  #26  
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+1 Delvac, sucks when cold-bliss when warm
Old 01-15-2015 | 02:59 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by GTgears
Heel toe blipping the 3-2 downshift will do wonders for your synchro wear. Though you may already have engagement teeth damage, which will require a new mainshaft, as was mentioned.

Please don't every out Redline in a Porsche transmission. Way too slippery. Increases the wear on synchros. It's a street oil, no matter what their marketing machine tells you. Delvac is a great choice.
I need to talk to you about the LSD and transmission
Old 01-15-2015 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Larry Cable
Good to know, is Delvac better than Porsche OEM?
The message I've read is that the OEM is good, for track use Delvac is better.
Old 01-15-2015 | 08:18 PM
  #29  
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Anyone try Amsoil or any other aftermarket motorsports oriented 75w90?
Old 01-15-2015 | 10:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by GTgears
Heel toe blipping the 3-2 downshift will do wonders for your synchro wear. Though you may already have engagement teeth damage, which will require a new mainshaft, as was mentioned.

Please don't every out Redline in a Porsche transmission. Way too slippery. Increases the wear on synchros. It's a street oil, no matter what their marketing machine tells you. Delvac is a great choice.
What is your opinion on Swepco 201? Or 212 for moly


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