F1CrazyDriver

So we can all agree that the oem is just a band-aid waiting to go bad.

Some speculate the flaw design between machine aluminum welded to cast aluminum. To do it absolutely right, you need to be both surfaces free of oil residue + a top welding machine / welder / weld design inserts. (contact a welding professional that welds nuclear power plants / submarines etc for his opinion- not a car welder will inform on his opinion )

for pin well, while i like the idea, i feel like with all the pressure the hole made since it was not there when the aluminum was cast- i think the surround area of hole will fracture over time.


I'm just rambling on but i will throw the idea to my contact if perhaps if the inserts that are currently sold on the market were made out of cast aluminum, just + getting welded onto- plus with an o-ring design so it truly is just an insert rather then a extension so a house can be clamp onto. Some that i see on the market do not have o-rings on the inserts. That is bad imo.



Question- why hasen't anyone done cast aluminum insert ? Cast aluminum insert w /o ring + welded to cast aluminum parts will make this perfect imo. Both parts need to be cleaned in a clean room to eliminate any oil (coolant has oil) in order to ensure a perfect weld. This also applies for the machine insert, as they are being washed in oil when machine to keep the lathe bit cool....so if shops are just getting and welding... well -- you are not getting a perfect contact weld due to the oil residue. I know that much about welding.... .i'l see what my contact tells me.

Izzone

I have oem stock my 2010 rs with easily 20k on track miles

Not sure they need any fix

Serge944

Regarding welding - you should be a lot more worried about your heat input, so that you have the right mechanical properties, and producing a weld free of notches, which are stress risers, and eventually lead to cracks.

Cleaning oil off with a clean rag will suffice - you're not going into surgery here. Remember to clean out all epoxy too.

Spyerx

You're in NorCal? If I were i'd probably be using Sharkwerks, they stand by their work. Regardless of method I think that's most important.

I'm down south, using BBI for my pipes. Quick summary of the process: they drop engine, remove the parts needing work, remove the old pipes, put all parts to be welded into cleaning machine (they use some ultrasonic thing I think), they have custom machined new pipes with flanges they use (not oem pipes), weld those in, pressure test, then re-assemple the engine with all new rubber and clamps, orings, hoses, etc.

Reality is, any method can fail, but, either of these options will keep the catastrophic "dump all coolant at once" from happening aside from blowing a hose.

aircavscout

Exactly /\ as SPYERX stated. Exact procedure he listed. I had mine done at Porsche Dealer.

All parts were removed and sent to AWS certified welding shop then put back on car. Dealer warranties the work.

Ask 20 people on Pin vs Weld and you will get 20 different answers...

I worked in the Nuclear industry for some time. Although AWS is not in depth as ASME Section 9 / Or NQA 1 i do feel it is sufficient for this application.

I would be hard pressed into agreeing a PIN will last the long haul.. But I am skewed with Failure Analysis type mindset so I error on the side of PROPER welding buy a qualified welder.

Izzone

Wonder how many of the cars are replacing the 2007 vintage hoses or the crimped pos radiator in the front

There are weaker links that should also be addressed

Alan C.

Good point. I saw an 04 come out get pinned and put back in with the original hoses.

Spyerx

All new rubber for me.

Question on front radiators: what are replacement options? OEM? Cup? aftermarket aluminum?

F1CrazyDriver

Thanks guys.

I'm thinking if fittings w orings are not available, I'll ask why not ?

Second, the real fix for me is getting cast molding made already with fittings part of mold ..hmm maybe project I need to do-? So no bs w welds/pins /glue. Just one part design from ground up w fitting...., decisions.

Izzone

Cup

I've seen many oem radiator fail sending car spinning

Here is one of version of trakcar failing

Serge944

If you look at the parts, you will see how ridiculous of a venture that would be.

F1CrazyDriver

Ridiculous venture sounds fun and tempting. Many said 996t could never sound good. I design an exhaust that makes it sound gt3. Many told me a true x pipe exhaust is not possible in center bypass on 997 gt3. I design and made it. Your friend Paul and MIke Y, told me the norm center bypass like you had sound like **** and unrefine... He heard mine yesterday and he said it is the most refined center exhaust he has ever heard- he called it "perfect". He loved it. So yes I like shooting impossible.

Anyways it think I'm going to go oem and see if I can take a look at these parts and see if molds can be made and cost. I expect 10k 15k in molds w my close source. But we can agree that would be the "ultimate real fix" ....

Serge944

More power to you! I personally don't think its worth the investment of time and money. Welding is a proven joining technique.

By the way, does your center bypass look like this? Merging the exhaust banks is definitely how you create a better sound - I've been preaching it to the 996 guys for years.

F1CrazyDriver

Which fittings did you go with for your 4.0? Did you do any of them on your .2?

Here center bypass. Sounds perfect. Refine. Quiet when not hard on throttle. I couldn't tell difference between stock and this driving around town. Anyways soon more info when I get dyno.

996FLT6

If u going that route u mite as well add more length to where the rubber hose clamps onto for less chance of hose popping out. That area where u clamp is pretty small. Mike