F1CrazyDriver

Thanks Alan. I'll find out Thursday. I'll def update thread.

F1CrazyDriver

Sandblasting complete sealed and ready for Welling tomorrow morning will update tomorrow gentlemen.

F1CrazyDriver

Perfect welds. For clarifications. He ment adding jb weld on outside after welding if I wanted to to cover up. If you look at second picture the welding did not penetrate insert which is a good thing so no leaks from there. I added jb in outside for reassurance. I feel very confident

Alan C.

Looks good. I thought you were going to put JB Weld on the tube and then insert it prior to welding. I think that would have been an issue. However post welding on the outside no issue. A little extra insurance as noted.

Ur20v

If you have access to some dye penetrant, do some basic NDT (none destructive testing) looking for pin holes in the weld and cracks in the casting- did you pre-heat the cast body?

F1CrazyDriver

Fingers cross no leaks, ever. My welder wanted a super clean surface. He stated it makes it makes it exponentially easier with very clean surface. He stated aluminum is much harder to weld then any of the steel metals from his experience. To make a long story short, i'm surprised well known shops on this forum, whom are highly regarded, weld aluminum on a dirty/contaminated surface. Which is probably the reason why sharkwers sees some **** jobs.

That would have been great to know prior. I would have bought it. Actually i'm still interested in buying it. My company is in the process of building 60 tanks out of stainless steel that involves a lot of welding, so would love to have one. What model / brand do you suggest?

By the way, to answer your prior question. Yes one hose blew out. The remaining 5 were a cake walk removing them. A few seconds on a torch is all it took. My car has been pampered by 2 PO, no track time. It also has been pampered by me, haven't even had a chance to wear out a set of tires !

Ur20v

For what you are doing any make would do. We use Ardrox consumables. suggest water washeradler.

Spray in lid then brush on to save mess. 10 minutes dwell time.

ask if you want more information/ assistance

cheers
Jay

Ur20v

Ps for dye pen its just aerosols required unless you need high sensitivity then Fluorescent consumables and black (UV) light is required

hotwired

Thinking about getting this done over the winter. I'll probably just go with the pinning method sharkwerks suggested. Any thing else you guys recommend checking/servicing on a low mile 7.2rs while the engine is dropped?

edit: nevermind just saw the whole thread dedicated to this question!

F1CrazyDriver

Thank you for the information. Do you have a link where this can be purchased / get more info. Can't find anything on google.

Just do whatever you feel most comfortable.

For those whom are interested in tackling the project. I do have a brand new (sealed) water pump housing for sale. I had it as a backup just in case the welding went all jacked up. They retail for over $1200 new. Make me an offer.

Ur20v

Google: NDT consumables South Florida and you will get loads of hits. Don't worry to much about manufacturer as the GT3 welds and tanks aren't being inspected to any code I would guess?

A company carrying out NDT services may be prepared to sell you the consumables (normally about ~$17 per can/aeorsol)

Get a pre clean and red dye- water washable (visible -(non fluro)) and developer (white contrast) aeorsols.

Clean down with pre-clean - brush on red dye and leave to dwell for 10 min's - if very hot you may need to reapply the red dye so it doesn't dry out. The dye is pulled in by force (capillary action)

Wipe clean with lint free rags and if required lightly mist water on and wipe again to remove the visible red dye as best you can - warning don't flood with water or spray under pressure dirt as you will wash out any dye in a crack (cast body next to weld area called the HAZ (Heat Effected Zone) or pin whole (normally found in the start stop area of a weld).

Lightly coat the test area with the white colour contrast spray and leave for another 10 minutes to develop (if you watch during this time you may see the dye start to bleed through - only needs to be light to cover of white contrast and think of this as a blotting paper to pull the dye out of any cracks or pin holes, these will appear as pink or red (depending on how deep/big the defect is). If you get an indication but you are unsure if it is a relevant indication and not just some dye held in some geometry like a weld toe or casting rough surface - lightly wipe with a slightly damp cloth just the area or concern and lightly spray with the white contrast spray and watch again for another 5-10 min's.

If you photograph any indications and post I will tell you if they are relevant or not.

Same process for your SS tanks you are building - note only get chlorine free / SS safe consumables. And depending on scale you may have to do the welds in manageable lengths.

Happy to help.

Thanks
Jay

atcbi5

I am interested in the housing. I will be pulling my engine out the week of July 9th thru the 12th. Since I will be inspecting the engine I might just replace that part anyhow. I need and will be getting Sharkwerks elbows because I feel that is were "my leak" is at. My leak is small and it occurs when the engine is completely up to temp. It drips between the oil reservoir and accumulates here. See pic

F1CrazyDriver

Jay, Ss tanks are 90+ feet of welds each, of crucial water tight. I'll pm u when I get home .

F1CrazyDriver

Update:

I would not suggest getting the inserts from : http://nyppd.com/all-parts/nyppd-all...e-911-996-997/

One of them is slightly too short. Need to get a longer hose.

That said. JB weld dried up very nice as you can see and parts clean make engine look new.

F1CrazyDriver

My car is complete. BIG BIG thank you to Fremont Porsche. Gunther was amazing. He was perfectly fine with the tech taking off the parts and sending them to get Alodine/ sand blasted / welded as i wanted to eliminate this concern forever and ever. Now that the job has been done right and completed I can rest assure this will never happen again. Yokatane. Car is up and running-- purring like new.



While "there"

Replaced all hoses for new ones
Did a few seals just in case
Got all lines welded.
Did the sharwerks repellent of plastic hoses to metal
changed water pump
new belt
plugs were done 2k miles so no need
wiring was looked over for aging and replaced whatever connectors that looked meh for a 7 year old car

Took a close look at everything- everything checked out perfect.

Super healthy car!