Ideal brake pad/rotor temp?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ideal brake pad/rotor temp?
It seems brake fade/brake fluid boiling is not very common in the GT3 world as long as a decent brake fluid and pad are used...
With that said, the other day I was under my car for the 1st time since I got it and noticed there is a lots of space under the gas tank, where the FWD unit would go on the 4/turbo cars.
My thoughts are that a front brake cooling system can easily be fabricated with a couple NACA ducts, 3" cooling hose and some light sheet metal fab. The rotor already has a circumferential "rotor backing plate" on to where to attach the hose. Easy peasy...
Plan would be to get a bottle of temp sensitive pain to get max temp readings off the disk and brake pad, but what's optimum and what's too cold? Theoretically if the temp of the system is lower, to a certain point, the brake pads and rotors should see less wear and last longer, but too cold and braking performance would suffer. It would be easy to make a slider to adjust airflow into the ducts, especially for cold days.
Currently running PFC08 and OEM steel 997.1GT3 rotors.
So the questions are:
Is the brake cooling kit needed?
What's optimum and lower target for brake pad and rotor temps?
Thx!
It seems brake fade/brake fluid boiling is not very common in the GT3 world as long as a decent brake fluid and pad are used...
With that said, the other day I was under my car for the 1st time since I got it and noticed there is a lots of space under the gas tank, where the FWD unit would go on the 4/turbo cars.
My thoughts are that a front brake cooling system can easily be fabricated with a couple NACA ducts, 3" cooling hose and some light sheet metal fab. The rotor already has a circumferential "rotor backing plate" on to where to attach the hose. Easy peasy...
Plan would be to get a bottle of temp sensitive pain to get max temp readings off the disk and brake pad, but what's optimum and what's too cold? Theoretically if the temp of the system is lower, to a certain point, the brake pads and rotors should see less wear and last longer, but too cold and braking performance would suffer. It would be easy to make a slider to adjust airflow into the ducts, especially for cold days.
Currently running PFC08 and OEM steel 997.1GT3 rotors.
So the questions are:
Is the brake cooling kit needed?
What's optimum and lower target for brake pad and rotor temps?
Thx!
#2
Race Director
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
pad temp depends on the brake pad itself. Search Trakcar threads from back in 2011-2012 as he had Orbit Racing do some fancy cooling on both of his 997.2 GT3RS cars.
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I never checked temps, but more cooling is more better in hot climates.
If you have an RS there is room to add NACA ducts and some openings through the front as well.
front wheel arch strips like on the CUP cars and new Z06 also should help.
Just click on my signature and see the pictures.
I've also posted them a few times in the past.
If you have an RS there is room to add NACA ducts and some openings through the front as well.
front wheel arch strips like on the CUP cars and new Z06 also should help.
Just click on my signature and see the pictures.
I've also posted them a few times in the past.
#4
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Temp depends on how hard and how often and for how long you use the brakes.
Drove my 2010 GT3 in the rain at Sebring PCA 48 Hours -- boiled/blackened the fluid and cracked front left PCCB in half.
Drove my 2010 GT3 in the rain at Sebring PCA 48 Hours -- boiled/blackened the fluid and cracked front left PCCB in half.