Will an AC DK13HLQ jack reach the rear central jack point?
#1
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Hello, was wondering if a AC DK13HLQ jack reach the rear central jack point without having to jack up the sides of the car first. I am not in town and cant just go outside and measure...
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i have both AC jack, but i can't rmember which model number is the long one.
the short one will not get to central pt for sure
the long one will, if your car is at oem ht. if it's lower, you need to drive rear up 2x4 else even the long one wont reach
i was told if you have PDEM i was told not to jack on engine case juck on rear jack pad and put jack stand under rear sub frame. this is faster, b/c you jack 1x per side
if you use to old method, you jack on rear pad, put stand on front. then jack on engine put stand on rear pad. that's total of 3x jacking.
am i making any sense?
the short one will not get to central pt for sure
the long one will, if your car is at oem ht. if it's lower, you need to drive rear up 2x4 else even the long one wont reach
i was told if you have PDEM i was told not to jack on engine case juck on rear jack pad and put jack stand under rear sub frame. this is faster, b/c you jack 1x per side
if you use to old method, you jack on rear pad, put stand on front. then jack on engine put stand on rear pad. that's total of 3x jacking.
am i making any sense?
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u owe me.
i just tried. my car is slightly lower then oem ht.can't get to it.
but from guestimating, even at stock ht, i dont think you can hit the central pad. even if you did, as soon as you start jacking it, the upper portion of the lift will hit the bottom of bumper before it start liftting the pad.
just put 2x4 and drive rear on to them then you are ok.
or jack on rear jack pad (in front of rear wheel) and support on sub frame with jack stands.
i just tried. my car is slightly lower then oem ht.can't get to it.
but from guestimating, even at stock ht, i dont think you can hit the central pad. even if you did, as soon as you start jacking it, the upper portion of the lift will hit the bottom of bumper before it start liftting the pad.
just put 2x4 and drive rear on to them then you are ok.
or jack on rear jack pad (in front of rear wheel) and support on sub frame with jack stands.
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AC jacks are nice but I don't use them often enough to justify the added expense.
All you need are the following:
1. Two 2x10s about 1' long for the rear wheels - I like to support most of the tire width.
2. Four jack stands - 2 JackPoint for the rear jacking points and 2 whatever for the front.
3. Low profile jack - Harbor freight 1-1/2 Ton alum. requires the 2x's for clearance.
Procedure:
1. Roll the rear tires on the 2x10s
2. Put the JackPoint hat on the jack and lift at the rear jacking point of one side.
3. Lift high enough to put a stand under the front jacking point - use a hockey puck as a cushion at the front jacking point if necessary. The JackPoint jack stands have cushioned hats.
4. Position the JackPoint jack stand under the hat that's on the jack and slowly lower the car, making sure the stand is aligned with the hat.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 on the other side of the car.
You only need to jack a GT3 at 2 points, the rear jack points, to place all 4 jack stands. It is not necessary to lift at the engine. If your GT3 is lower than stock, you might need a thicker block than a 2x.
All you need are the following:
1. Two 2x10s about 1' long for the rear wheels - I like to support most of the tire width.
2. Four jack stands - 2 JackPoint for the rear jacking points and 2 whatever for the front.
3. Low profile jack - Harbor freight 1-1/2 Ton alum. requires the 2x's for clearance.
Procedure:
1. Roll the rear tires on the 2x10s
2. Put the JackPoint hat on the jack and lift at the rear jacking point of one side.
3. Lift high enough to put a stand under the front jacking point - use a hockey puck as a cushion at the front jacking point if necessary. The JackPoint jack stands have cushioned hats.
4. Position the JackPoint jack stand under the hat that's on the jack and slowly lower the car, making sure the stand is aligned with the hat.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 on the other side of the car.
You only need to jack a GT3 at 2 points, the rear jack points, to place all 4 jack stands. It is not necessary to lift at the engine. If your GT3 is lower than stock, you might need a thicker block than a 2x.
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The long AC jack will reach the rear subframe by starting with the handle horizontal... Just can't have the handle vertically up... I jack from rear pads to slot in front stands then from either side of the rear subframe (where the chunky subframe goes up to the chassis, near where anti roll bar bolts to sub) to lift the **** end and slot in rear stands.
My car is lowered about 5-7mm and I can get the jack there to lift the **** end for oil changes without having put front end up...
Don't jack from the centre of the subframe bar or engine, not good...
My car is lowered about 5-7mm and I can get the jack there to lift the **** end for oil changes without having put front end up...
Don't jack from the centre of the subframe bar or engine, not good...
Last edited by 911rox; 02-26-2014 at 05:13 AM.
#7
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Listen to mooty. Jack 1x each side from rear jack point. Jack stands go on rear sub frame and front jack point. Forget about 20-step jacking procedure, driving on to ramps, etc etc
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The method I described uses the jack 1x each side and places the 4 jack stands on the 4 jack points that were designed for that purpose. I do not place jacks or jack stands on arbitrary sub frame locations or on the engine.
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So the only reason I want to get the AC jack is bc from everything I read its a great quality jack, and would pass it on to my kids (who are unborn), thats how I justify the price. Other point i like is the 29" lift height.
Will also get 4 of the ESCO Jack Stand 3-Ton Model# 10498...
My jack and jack stands were stolen by the moving company from Africa back to the US.
Will also get 4 of the ESCO Jack Stand 3-Ton Model# 10498...
My jack and jack stands were stolen by the moving company from Africa back to the US.
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#11
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I use grizfish method, super easy and very safe with pair of jackpoint stands:
Jack up rear on jack point, place front stand on jack point (I use a normal flat top stand here), jack a little more, place jack point stand on rear point
Do same on other side
Car is up on 4 stands in just a few minutes
I prefer this method as when the rear stands are on the rear subframe it makes the access very tight as the stands are right where I seem to want to be. Also makes access to oil tank a little tight.
@AEsco48 The Esco stands are very nice. You might want to consider 2 of those + 2 jackpoint stands.
Jack up rear on jack point, place front stand on jack point (I use a normal flat top stand here), jack a little more, place jack point stand on rear point
Do same on other side
Car is up on 4 stands in just a few minutes
I prefer this method as when the rear stands are on the rear subframe it makes the access very tight as the stands are right where I seem to want to be. Also makes access to oil tank a little tight.
@AEsco48 The Esco stands are very nice. You might want to consider 2 of those + 2 jackpoint stands.
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I really like having the car up high when working on it, no need to bend over when working on the brakes and plenty of space when doing work underneath.
To get the car up high you need central jacking points in the back (check) and front... There lies the problem, none in the front.
In the front, other than the front side jacking points is there a location to put a jack stand?
My idea is to fabricate a cross beam between two points on the front sides of the car and jack up high from the center of the beam.
Kind of like this but custom made, desig based on beam deflection formulas with a good factor of safety.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ifts/Beam1.jpg
To get the car up high you need central jacking points in the back (check) and front... There lies the problem, none in the front.
In the front, other than the front side jacking points is there a location to put a jack stand?
My idea is to fabricate a cross beam between two points on the front sides of the car and jack up high from the center of the beam.
Kind of like this but custom made, desig based on beam deflection formulas with a good factor of safety.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ifts/Beam1.jpg
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look the freking car has been out 50year.
grizfish is right way
my way is right too
and jacking the split case is fine too, just replace the PDEM more often.
any otherway, not so much.
jackpoint stands has plus and minus, everyone is different. i dont use them
esco has plus and minus. i prefere those.
spyerx's issue with access to accessoris and oil tank will be non issue with narrower stands than jackpoint.
many ways to skin the car (not SP)
grizfish is right way
my way is right too
and jacking the split case is fine too, just replace the PDEM more often.
any otherway, not so much.
jackpoint stands has plus and minus, everyone is different. i dont use them
esco has plus and minus. i prefere those.
spyerx's issue with access to accessoris and oil tank will be non issue with narrower stands than jackpoint.
many ways to skin the car (not SP)
#15
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What I 'need' is a 2 post lift in my garage!