wbrownie

Just completed plug and coil change on my 997.1 after getting misfiring CEL. This DIY was super helpful. The wrench recommendations made it really easy. Thanks!

JB911

I'll add that I did one plug at a time-that way if you get distracted by phone calls, cat trying to help, etc your attention is on that coil and plug. Replace and move to the next one. The coils I must say keep pushing them in, spinning a bit to lign it up, and then hand tightening with the small ratchet is very important. Think if it's not perfectly tight, it could eventually loosen up miles down the road from vibration, too tight and you could strip those threads. I've been putting plugs on my motorcycles since I was 14 and hand tight is the best way, even though I have a nice torque wrench. The magnetic socket was really a must even though I've never cross threaded a plug before with regular ones-

jonwb

Anyone have an opinion for / against the use of a Copper based Anti-Seize paste on the threads of the plug(s)?

Sweeper

I have always used it, especially after stripping the threads out of Subaru head trying to remove them.

Matrog

Use sparingly.

JB911

I would not use it at all-

Sweeper

Why???

JB911

Because as it is, when you remove the old plugs from an engine they already have a slight coat of oil-if anything you're risking spitting out a plug down the line if you use anti-seize.
I've never used it in any engine-

F1CrazyDriver

^ w/ JB , me personally i have never used any, in my short 16 years working on cars(hobby). Tighten by hand and then torque correctly.

SR71BLACKBIRD

Can Sparkplugs be changed without removing the rear wheels? - Thanks I have the big breaker bar and torque wrench but don't want to attempt to take off wheels yet .

JB911

Yes, check this thread-I did mine lying comfortably under the car after raising the rear wheels only, I have a work pillow, lol It really helps. The magnetic socket is a must too. See pics

jonwb

I have a .1, so since wheel removal is easy for me, I pulled the back wheels. My car has the side mufflers, which I left in for the plug / coil change. The trickiest one was the passenger-side rearmost plug. I did work from underneath a bit on that one, but overall most of the work was done from access through the wheel well. I can imagine, as JB notes, that the job can be done from under the car, but I think that would be a bit trickier.

Overall, a pretty easy procedure. Unplugging the wires to the coils can sometimes be a PITA, but for this car it was pretty easy to release the clip. I found it best to slide off the thin rubber boot, then it was easier to find the release tab. Then you can just press on the release tab 'til you hear it make an audible 'click' sound. At which point the catch was 'clear' and you could just pull on the connector without having to simultaneously hold the release tab. Then, during reassembly, I just pushed in the connector 'til I heard the 'click' sound, and then slid down the rubber boot.

Sweeper

Sorry, That isn't true! anti seize will not promote plugs backing out, or any bolt/Nut combo for that matter. Dissimilar metals is where it shines (plug steel/ and head Aluminum)I use it all time, on Race car and alike.
Dont like it don't use it. but don't put out your opinions as facts. Just saying!!

BTW I use it on new plugs, not so much once they've been installed. I pull them and toss them most of the time.

JB911

Service manual says nothing about using anti-seize on plugs, but I would never use it
One thing I would caution is if you drop a plug, discard it- I seem to recall someone's plug porcelain disintegrating inside the engine with obvious damage to that cylinder-

Spyerx

I've never seen it used as the factory procedure. I seem to recall the plugs having a nickel coating on them to minimize seize. I replace mine 1x a year and it's never been an issue.