Salvaged 2008 GT3
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Hi, I was wondering what do you guys think. If I were to keep this car forever and never resell it would it be worth my time to buy?
Since salvaged cars don't have keep their retail value I would keep it!
I would like to do most of the work myself as much as possible to keep the repair costs low.
I would order all the necessary parts and probably get it spray painted by a certified Porsche repair shop.
What do you think the cost would be ?
I would register the car in the state of Illinois. So there have to be 2 inspections one by the Police officer and One by the state.
If you can give me any advice and tell me how the process works, thanks.
The part that concerns me is the back fender above the left wheel? how would you replace it? Obviously you would cut it out but where would I get the spare part.
VIN WP0AC29968S792213
Current Bid is $10,000
Information form Copart.com
ACV: $89,193 USD
Repair Cost: $52,943 USD
Title State/Type: CA SALVAGE CERTIFICATE
Odometer: 3,386 NOT ACTUAL
Primary Damage: SIDE
Secondary Damage: FRONT END
VIN: WP0AC29968S792213
Body Style: COUPE
Color: WHITE
Engine: 3.6L 6
Drive: Rear-wheel Drive
Cylinders: 6
Fuel: GAS
Keys: YES
Special Note:
Since salvaged cars don't have keep their retail value I would keep it!
I would like to do most of the work myself as much as possible to keep the repair costs low.
I would order all the necessary parts and probably get it spray painted by a certified Porsche repair shop.
What do you think the cost would be ?
I would register the car in the state of Illinois. So there have to be 2 inspections one by the Police officer and One by the state.
If you can give me any advice and tell me how the process works, thanks.
The part that concerns me is the back fender above the left wheel? how would you replace it? Obviously you would cut it out but where would I get the spare part.
VIN WP0AC29968S792213
Current Bid is $10,000
Information form Copart.com
ACV: $89,193 USD
Repair Cost: $52,943 USD
Title State/Type: CA SALVAGE CERTIFICATE
Odometer: 3,386 NOT ACTUAL
Primary Damage: SIDE
Secondary Damage: FRONT END
VIN: WP0AC29968S792213
Body Style: COUPE
Color: WHITE
Engine: 3.6L 6
Drive: Rear-wheel Drive
Cylinders: 6
Fuel: GAS
Keys: YES
Special Note:
#2
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can't tell by the pics, it's usually a lot more than you expect. Looks the car is bent pretty well. Frame work ?
Could be a project, if you buy the car for for 25-30K, but most likely not worth $$ wise.
Could be a project, if you buy the car for for 25-30K, but most likely not worth $$ wise.
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No idea without looking at the car closely. I would say if the car costs anything over 50K I wouldn't do it.
I don't think I would do it anyway as I don't have patience for this kind of project anymore, but a lot of people do. That all considering that the car was really well cared on top of everything.
Wrong wheels and also has one of those hot air intakes, that makes me think I'm mentally challenged.
I would much rather buy a clean 996GT3 for the money, but again I don't know if you're doing this to save $ or for the project itself.
I don't think I would do it anyway as I don't have patience for this kind of project anymore, but a lot of people do. That all considering that the car was really well cared on top of everything.
Wrong wheels and also has one of those hot air intakes, that makes me think I'm mentally challenged.
I would much rather buy a clean 996GT3 for the money, but again I don't know if you're doing this to save $ or for the project itself.
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Second observation...Based on the questions you are asking, it would not appear you are going to be able to do much if any work on the P-car, nor have the expertise to detect other hidden issues.
I am basing my comments strictly on your post and info provided, and just an opinion, which is what you asked for.
Good luck with your research.
DC
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car is junk.
The driver side rocker panel is bent in and most likely the tub is twisted as result.
You will never get a proper door fitment and alignments would be questionable.
You can buy new rear quarter panels, used doors, used fenders etc, but by the time you rebuilt this little sucker you could have bought a complete car for 60-70k that needs nothing.
The repair bill on this car would be all of $50k
I would buy this wreck for the uprights, brakes, engine and transmission.
no cheap fix here...
The driver side rocker panel is bent in and most likely the tub is twisted as result.
You will never get a proper door fitment and alignments would be questionable.
You can buy new rear quarter panels, used doors, used fenders etc, but by the time you rebuilt this little sucker you could have bought a complete car for 60-70k that needs nothing.
The repair bill on this car would be all of $50k
I would buy this wreck for the uprights, brakes, engine and transmission.
no cheap fix here...
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Also, it appears that it has been stripped of several very expensive parts post-accident, the cost of which are most likely not included in the estimated repair cost.
Unless I was able to do most of the work myself (i.e., if I owned a body shop), I believe I would pass on this one as repairing this car correctly is going to be a very expensive proposition.
Unless I was able to do most of the work myself (i.e., if I owned a body shop), I believe I would pass on this one as repairing this car correctly is going to be a very expensive proposition.
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Thanks guys for your info, I was just wondering about it all. My friend showed me the website copart.com where they sell cars like this and others. Some are not damaged but have been stolen so its a risk all around. You think the repair bill would be $50K if I bought all the parts my self and fitted them, Im mechanically inclined. The only parts that I would do at the shop would be paint, and possibly frame work. Its hard to tell I dont know if the auction brokerage lets you see the vehicle before biding on it. Anyone familiar with the process?
Thanks
Thanks
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Thanks guys for your info, I was just wondering about it all. My friend showed me the website copart.com where they sell cars like this and others. Some are not damaged but have been stolen so its a risk all around. You think the repair bill would be $50K if I bought all the parts my self and fitted them, Im mechanically inclined. The only parts that I would do at the shop would be paint, and possibly frame work. Its hard to tell I dont know if the auction brokerage lets you see the vehicle before biding on it. Anyone familiar with the process?
Thanks
Thanks
remove engine
remove interior
remove rear fender
remove drivers side rocker panel
Tub would need to be put on an alignment table for installation of new rocker panel and rear fender.
Need the following parts new or used:
drivers side front inner and outer fender
headlights/tail lights
front rads
drivers side door
All this is possible, IF the tub is not twisted and the damage underside indeed is limited only to the rocker panel area.
One would wonder why the front and rear bumper are taped in place and why the lights and exhaust are missing?
Im willing to bet there is more things missing from behind those bumpers...
And what is with the turbo II wheels and ride height?
The mechancial work is the easy part (engine drop and interior strip)
The hard work is all the little missing parts, proper panel fitment and frame geometry.
Considering a decent body shop world charge upwards of $10000.00 for a paint job on a perfect car and I can spot $20000.00 worth of missing parts alone from this car leads me to believe that this car is easily going to eat $50000.00 at a body shop even if you do all the "mechanical" work yourself.
It is a parts car.
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Best place to full the frame in our area would be The Ultimate Paint Shop in Lake Bluff. They have the right jig. If you decide to go this direction.
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