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.1 engine clicking/knocking noise

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Old 08-08-2013, 08:35 PM
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CRex
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First order of business is identifying the source of that rpm-related knock. You'll need a lift for that. Tranny or engine. Inside the crankcase or external...
Old 08-12-2013, 09:12 PM
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cec3
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sorry about crappy video. no loss of power on track.

talked to mechanic today - plugs & coils all checked out ok - noise seems to be coming from cylinder 6 - engine coming out

well cared for car with only 12k - wtf?

what else (besides coolant line fix) would be prudent to upgrade while torn apart?
Old 08-12-2013, 11:25 PM
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Mvez
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Originally Posted by cec3
sorry about crappy video. no loss of power on track.

talked to mechanic today - plugs & coils all checked out ok - noise seems to be coming from cylinder 6 - engine coming out

well cared for car with only 12k - wtf?

what else (besides coolant line fix) would be prudent to upgrade while torn apart?
Bummer, I wonder if it's a burned exhaust valve.
Old 08-12-2013, 11:49 PM
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Jamie_GT3
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You can do a 4.0 Bore and stroke or all bore while you're in there...
Old 08-13-2013, 12:28 AM
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superfast02911
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Subscribed. Let us know what they find with engine out.

My .1 3.6 grenaded at the track in March...#4 con rod broke at the wrist pin and shredded the case. 50K miles.

To my uninitiated ears, it sounds a bit like a spun bearing? Do these engines do that?
Old 08-14-2013, 06:51 PM
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sharkster
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Originally Posted by cec3
sorry about crappy video. no loss of power on track.

talked to mechanic today - plugs & coils all checked out ok - noise seems to be coming from cylinder 6 - engine coming out

well cared for car with only 12k - wtf?

what else (besides coolant line fix) would be prudent to upgrade while torn apart?
hi ched bottom corner of the engine is also what the cam adjuster coming apart sounds come from. Did they check the oil for any shavings?
Old 08-14-2013, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cec3
sorry about crappy video. no loss of power on track.

talked to mechanic today - plugs & coils all checked out ok - noise seems to be coming from cylinder 6 - engine coming out

well cared for car with only 12k - wtf?

what else (besides coolant line fix) would be prudent to upgrade while torn apart?
And if the engine is coming out have them do this:
http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/techni...urbo-cars.html
Old 08-14-2013, 07:28 PM
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CRex
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Originally Posted by sharkster
hi ched bottom corner of the engine is also what the cam adjuster coming apart sounds come from. Did they check the oil for any shavings?
Hey Alex--it's a 997.1 so no vario-actuators on the exhaust cams in the bottom. More importantly, have you seen the actuator problem on earlier cars too?
Old 08-14-2013, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CRex
Hey Alex--it's a 997.1 so no vario-actuators on the exhaust cams in the bottom. More importantly, have you seen the actuator problem on earlier cars too?
Luckily for .1RS owners that's true. But it still sounds like it's coming from there And yes I have seen that issue sadly many times. More than I'd like. Any LWF equipped car that gets tracked and aggressively geared down it's a matter of time
Old 08-15-2013, 01:08 AM
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Mvez
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Originally Posted by sharkster
Luckily for .1RS owners that's true. But it still sounds like it's coming from there And yes I have seen that issue sadly many times. More than I'd like. Any LWF equipped car that gets tracked and aggressively geared down it's a matter of time
So is there any early audible warning signs of the intake actuator bolts backing out? I assume a preventative maintenance would be to Loctite (red) the bolts?

Just wondering how big of a job it would be to do this...
Old 08-15-2013, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mvez
So is there any early audible warning signs of the intake actuator bolts backing out? I assume a preventative maintenance would be to Loctite (red) the bolts?

Just wondering how big of a job it would be to do this...
It takes a while but once there's enough separation the low oil pressure light comes on but that's about 1-2 seconds away from loosing timing and disaster. For a while the screws will rattle and Chafe away at the aluminum cover first. That stuff will show up in the oil. They can get to them easily with the engine out. The factory released a newer replacement part with higher friction surfaces but it doesn't help much. A ****ty design And not manufactured with good tooling either it seems. The bloody hole aren't even exact either. They quickly become oval.
Old 08-15-2013, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sharkster
It takes a while but once there's enough separation the low oil pressure light comes on but that's about 1-2 seconds away from loosing timing and disaster. For a while the screws will rattle and Chafe away at the aluminum cover first. That stuff will show up in the oil. They can get to them easily with the engine out. The factory released a newer replacement part with higher friction surfaces but it doesn't help much. A ****ty design And not manufactured with good tooling either it seems. The bloody hole aren't even exact either. They quickly become oval.
jesus, with my car just out of warranty, I think I'm going to change the oil and inspect it. I've noticed some seemingly louder rattling, including a metallic sound upon startup, but I thought it was from using a heavier weight oil (5W50) and infrequent use.
Old 08-15-2013, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mvez
jesus, with my car just out of warranty, I think I'm going to change the oil and inspect it. I've noticed some seemingly louder rattling, including a metallic sound upon startup, but I thought it was from using a heavier weight oil (5W50) and infrequent use.
I would too. Seen it too many times. This is what you don't want to see
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:13 AM
  #29  
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Holy crap batman...
Old 08-15-2013, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 911rox
Holy crap batman...
Luckily you have a non rs and the dual mass so you're a less likely candidate for this awesome design failure


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