tcsracing1

sounds like the PCA region president has done too many wine and cheese tours....

jakermc

So if switching from PCCB to steel on a 997.1 the front is a simple direct bolt-on of the 997.2 front rotor, no other changes necessary? How is the rear converted in this case?

10 GT3

$4k/rotor (4 x $4K = $16K/set). They've gone up. The salesmen probably don't talk about that when they try to sell people on checking the PCCB option.

10 GT3

.2 Front rotors are a direct bolt-on with no changes.

Rears are the same basic setup for both gens and all brake options. The .2 has a 2-piece rotor that is lighter. The rear steel rotors from a .2 are interchangeable with the steel or ceramic rear rotors on a .1. It is a direct bolt-on with no other changes necessary. The nub holes on the rotor are correctly positioned and sized to fit a 5-lug hub.

I have 26K miles on my .2 and still have the original set of the rear rotors on the car. When I do need to replace them, I am going with another set of OEM .2 rears. I have never seen a rear rotor, OEM or aftermarket, wear so well with high track use.

For the front though, the .2 steel fronts have some flaws in the design. They start cracking bad at around 4 track days and develop structural cracks by the 12th track day. Hence I am on my 3rd set of OEM fronts. I have given up on the OEM steel fronts going forward and have already purchased a set of the Gen 2 PFC (circular lug holes) rotors for my next front rotor swap.

Since you are in Plano, just go up to Porsche of Plano and talk to John Gladwell, Cliff, Robert, Aaron, pretty much any of the techs. They well tell you going from .1 PCCB to .2 steel is just a standard rotor swap. They have done this swap many times.

jakermc

Thanks, that is very helpful. I actually moved to Lake Worth, FL and need to update my info. But I certainly know the guys you mention very well and still call John when I have a track side problem. (I've lost count how many states I've been in where he has fixed me from Plano!). Roger Reynolds is still my go to guy for parts as well.

I just picked up 2007 GT3 on Friday and got to know the car on the 1,200 mile drive home. My current plan is to initially try the PCCBs on track with Pagid Green 050 motorsport pads, then make a decision about the conversion.

paver

Jakermc, I have never tracked my pccb's but I have read many posts on here that say P50's eat them up fast. Apparently Porsche no longer says P50 are compatible with PCCB's.

jakermc

So many various opinions it is tough to tell what's true! I had based my decision on this thread:

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/g...ack-users.html

but who knows the real story?

Spyerx

Just to add to this... I have a .1RS that came with PCCB. I have .2 steel rotors front and back and have .2 oem / street pads on it right now, all bolted up w/o issues. Literally, bolt on, .2 part numbers w/o any tweaks. Also have a set of pagid yellows that are .2 part numbers that bolt right on. As stated here, most will suggest pfc, or maybe stoptech or brembo rotor swaps with appropriate pads vs. oem steel rotors. Save or sell the PCCB to fund the steel setup. Or budget for PCCB replacements...

GT3DE

rear OEM on the .2 wear out and crack in a less than 5 track days of hard driving. Cheap steel replacement is the turbo OEM rotor at $350/pair on Suncoast website - bolts right on.

CRex

There are half-truths and part facts in all of the above.

.2 rotors are ALL interchangeable between PCCB and cast iron cars. Both are in 380x34mm / 330x28mm format, same offset. Lots of ppl been there done that got the T-shirt. I've run a set of OEM cast irons at 10/10's myself no problem whatsoever

.1 rotors are NOT interchangeable as OEM steels are 350x34 / 330x28.

Hence, .2 rotors of either kind can be swapped into .1 PCCB cars but not steelers. Your PCA regional pres may be referring to that.

RSRanger

I know the discussion is about interchange of rotors.
Regarding calipers though, I believe if I recall there is a difference in piston sizes between the .1GT3/RS red and yellow calipers. The reds have larger pistons and use a different upright.
In the .2GT3/RS's the piston sizes are the same in the red and yellow calipers.
Sorry for going OT.

Ranger (six silent men)

10 GT3

I have over 30 track days on mine and a total of over 26K miles. I could believe the fronts, but certainly not the rears. In fact, I didn't even have my first crack in the rear rotors until 2 years and the longest is less than 1/4". It could make a difference if you don't have the extra brake cooling the .2 has in the back (2 scoops per corner). With the fronts, I would have cracks starting at a 1/4" long in 4-6 track days. They always start from the center holes that are larger diameter. At 10+ days with each set I start getting structural cracks between the holes and at around 12 track days they start playing connect the dots and are structurally unsound. The cause is either a poor cross-drill design or the iron that is used is to brittle.