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I've mentioned it before-if you already have a laptop, a PIWIS III costs peanuts these days, $300-$500 depending on which software version you get. For 997 cars you don't need the latest version.
Do a complete VAL, Vehicle Handover, read and clear codes, perform the tests at home just like the dealer would-
But even with Piwis, some issues do not show up-or rather, can't be pinpointed. The change-over valve which controls the disc valve in the transmission is a perfect example. Only through extensive reading did I find out a stupid $45 change-over valve that died created such an insane problem. Even dealers back in 2010 replaced thermostats and even water pumps because they didn't diagnose the change-over valve issue-
But having a Piwis these days is so affordable I don't know who would waste time and money on a Durametric tool-don't do it-and PIWIS comes with an update enabled PETKA app-
I've mentioned it before-if you already have a laptop, a PIWIS III costs peanuts these days, $300-$500 depending on which software version you get. For 997 cars you don't need the latest version.
Do a complete VAL, Vehicle Handover, read and clear codes, perform the tests at home just like the dealer would-
But even with Piwis, some issues do not show up-or rather, can't be pinpointed. The change-over valve which controls the disc valve in the transmission is a perfect example. Only through extensive reading did I find out a stupid $45 change-over valve that died created such an insane problem. Even dealers back in 2010 replaced thermostats and even water pumps because they didn't diagnose the change-over valve issue-
But having a Piwis these days is so affordable I don't know who would waste time and money on a Durametric tool-don't do it-and PIWIS comes with an update enabled PETKA app-
JB
Thanks JB and yes, appreciate the reminder on PIWIS. I’ll need both a windows machine and the other PIWIS components, but will come out similar in price to a Durametric. Only downsides with the PIWIS is needing the large battery charger. I won’t be coding, but it seems smart to follow the recommendations. Also, would rather not use the cloned PIWIS software and buy an original product but it is much more robust than Durametric, I know.
I've mentioned it before-if you already have a laptop, a PIWIS III costs peanuts these days, $300-$500 depending on which software version you get. For 997 cars you don't need the latest version.
Do a complete VAL, Vehicle Handover, read and clear codes, perform the tests at home just like the dealer would-
But even with Piwis, some issues do not show up-or rather, can't be pinpointed. The change-over valve which controls the disc valve in the transmission is a perfect example. Only through extensive reading did I find out a stupid $45 change-over valve that died created such an insane problem. Even dealers back in 2010 replaced thermostats and even water pumps because they didn't diagnose the change-over valve issue-
But having a Piwis these days is so affordable I don't know who would waste time and money on a Durametric tool-don't do it-and PIWIS comes with an update enabled PETKA app-
JB
I admittedly haven't done a ton of research on 997 compatible PIWIS. Where would you recommend sourcing one in the $300-$500 range out of curiosity?
The PIWIS isn't cloned, the VCI is. It's a VAS for VW/Audi, cloned to use on Porsches. A used Lenovo laptop on eBay can be found for $200, VCI on Aliexpress or eBay for around $68
Piwis software $200 up, version 38.250 is fine for 997.
The "Received My New Piwis III" thread has lots of details and has become the main source of information.
PM @rnlst_log, he installs the software remotely while you're at work or sleeping-100% support, unlike certain pirates o garageforum and other sites. Do not buy a "turnkey" Piwis from internet sites-
I might have finally fixed the P0455 Tank system - major leak CEL that would trigger frequently.
1) I went to a dealer that told me it was the vent line located in the engine bay - so I paid them for the diagnosis, bought the part and replaced myself.
not it.
2) I went to an independent shop that smoke tested the car and did not find a leak, but replaced the fuel level sensor.
nope. (still get a code for the fuel level sensor. someone suggested they may not have calibrated it - *sigh*)
Did a bunch of digging and found some posts on the cayenne forum that suggested that it could be the fuel vapor detection pump. The bosch part is $60 on amazon The leak diagnosis pump is inside the charcoal canister located in the frunk. It's a bit of a fiddly fix, but it is possible without too much trouble. I replaced the pump and I'm 200 miles and no CEL. It usually would come back after a few miles of driving.
the pump is inside the canister even though I could hear the pump turn on and off when controlling from the durametric, it was most likely cracked or performing poorly.
Looks like they were trying to replace the leak detection pump - same as me. The info you posted helped me get into the carbon canister. Replacing the pump has fixed my CEL / P0455 error code.
I might have finally fixed the P0455 Tank system - major leak CEL that would trigger frequently.
1) I went to a dealer that told me it was the vent line located in the engine bay - so I paid them for the diagnosis, bought the part and replaced myself.
not it.
2) I went to an independent shop that smoke tested the car and did not find a leak, but replaced the fuel level sensor.
nope. (still get a code for the fuel level sensor. someone suggested they may not have calibrated it - *sigh*)
Did a bunch of digging and found some posts on the cayenne forum that suggested that it could be the fuel vapor detection pump. The bosch part is $60 on amazon The leak diagnosis pump is inside the charcoal canister located in the frunk. It's a bit of a fiddly fix, but it is possible without too much trouble. I replaced the pump and I'm 200 miles and no CEL. It usually would come back after a few miles of driving.
the pump is inside the canister even though I could hear the pump turn on and off when controlling from the durametric, it was most likely cracked or performing poorly.
@andrewgt3 I've had the same P4055 CEL since I bought the car three years ago. The previous owner disclosed it and noted that the dealers he worked with weren't able to resolve it.
I was never able to let the tank go below 1/4 without the light coming on, and couldn't fill it all the way without the pump stopping -- so my realistic range was like 130-150 miles. I tried a new gas cap and nozzle adapter, and brought it to a reputable indy who basically wanted to rip out the whole fuel system lol.
Anyway, saw this post and for $60 decided why the F not. "Fiddly" is the perfect word to describe the installation. I got hung up on a few things like reattaching spring clamps onto the charcoal cannister and removing one of the screws on the side of the pump, but it was totally DIY-able. 200 miles later, no CEL and I was able to fill the tank without any issue!
THANK YOU so much for taking the time to share this fix! You've saved me $$$ and given me more time to enjoy driving instead of thinking about that damn CEL
I bet that your part and mine are the same since they're in the same location, but I likely paid genuine part pricing, since I went through the dealer vs you getting OEM pricing. I'll update my thread next year when I am filling up my car.