2010 GT3 Clutch Replacement to GT3RS 4.0
#1
2010 GT3 Clutch Replacement to GT3RS 4.0
Hey guys, long time lurker, first time poster.
I wanted to do the conversion on my GT3 since it's apart anyway - saw the kit posted on Sharkwerks and Suncoast... Wanted to know if there are any issues of doing this as well as the part numbers necessary for all of this - I found some of the parts numbers but would like get everything down. Anyone who has done this, please chime in with your experiences and expressions. Ive heard things such as increased noise, stalling (reset tcu should fix this), not for the street, etc.
Also does anyone know if this voids the warranty?
Parts and Part No's:
4.0 RS clutch disc - 997 116 013 91
Throw-out bearing - 944 116 080 01
Guide tube -
Flywheel bolts -
Pressure plate bolts -
Ring gear -
4.0 RS pressure plate (bolts instead of rivets) - 997 116 027 91
4.0 RS light weight flywheel -
Thanks.
I wanted to do the conversion on my GT3 since it's apart anyway - saw the kit posted on Sharkwerks and Suncoast... Wanted to know if there are any issues of doing this as well as the part numbers necessary for all of this - I found some of the parts numbers but would like get everything down. Anyone who has done this, please chime in with your experiences and expressions. Ive heard things such as increased noise, stalling (reset tcu should fix this), not for the street, etc.
Also does anyone know if this voids the warranty?
Parts and Part No's:
4.0 RS clutch disc - 997 116 013 91
Throw-out bearing - 944 116 080 01
Guide tube -
Flywheel bolts -
Pressure plate bolts -
Ring gear -
4.0 RS pressure plate (bolts instead of rivets) - 997 116 027 91
4.0 RS light weight flywheel -
Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
Just did this to my car. You have the standard rattle that all RS have with the lightweight flywheel. Otherwise clutch is perfectly streetable and the flywheel lets it rev up faster for quicker and easier rev matching. Rattling is main downside, and oh maybe a shorter life on the clutch since the pressure plate is prone to premature failure. Voiding warranty with Porsche parts seems odd, but I have seen posts where Porsche dealers have said it denies warranty, where others have had their dealer install it.
YMV...
YMV...
#3
Rennlist Member
Read Sharky's guide to upgrading GT3's. 2010 GT3s come with lightweight pulleys already (I think) so you won't need to address that other side of the crankshaft. Part numbers below:
Guide tube: 950.116.813.30
LWFW: 997.114.012.90
Flywheel bolts: 999.119.017.01 (x9)
RS Pulley: 997.102.017.90 (in case yours doesn't have this part but a prelim read says all MY10+ Mezgers do)
Pulley Roll Pin: 900.012.068.00
Ring gear is reused.
Guide tube: 950.116.813.30
LWFW: 997.114.012.90
Flywheel bolts: 999.119.017.01 (x9)
RS Pulley: 997.102.017.90 (in case yours doesn't have this part but a prelim read says all MY10+ Mezgers do)
Pulley Roll Pin: 900.012.068.00
Ring gear is reused.
#4
Just to clarify, you want to do both the RS 4.0 clutch upgrade AND the LWF? I understand that you can do each separately, but there are synergies to doing both at the same time. Is this correct? TX
#5
Rennlist Member
#6
I would be VERY reluctant to do this upgrade. Search this forum about all the clutch/flywheel issues with RS models. There are multiple threads on this topic. RS clutches only seem to last 4-6k miles, hence a very expensive and regularly replaceable upgrade for very little benefit.
#7
Rennlist Member
I had Premier Sportscar service in Las Vegas do the upgrade on my GT3 RS 3.8 to the 4.0 pressure plate. After speaking with Kent Moore, who is a World Champion technician, and knows the GT3's inside and out, I decided to do it as a preventive step. He showed me the rivets and where they fail on the pressure plate. It's not something you just try to hope not happen.
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#8
CRex - thanks for the part numbers!
Thanks to everyone else for all the posts and opinions as well - the parts have been ordered and will hopefully be there soon to be installed - opinions and thoughts to come!
montoya - why early clutch failure? I was under the impression of switching to the 4.0RS PP (bolts as opposed to rivets) would increase it's longevity.
Thanks to everyone else for all the posts and opinions as well - the parts have been ordered and will hopefully be there soon to be installed - opinions and thoughts to come!
montoya - why early clutch failure? I was under the impression of switching to the 4.0RS PP (bolts as opposed to rivets) would increase it's longevity.
#9
Rennlist Member
The car I'm purchasing bucks that trend, assuming that multiple people are reporting clutch failures on 2010+ RS models in such a short period of time. The original clutch lasted over 30k miles and the replacement is still healthy after about 25k more miles. It is a 59k mile 2010 RS and is on its second clutch. I'd hate for people on this forum to think that these clutches are 4-6k mile time bombs.
I would be VERY reluctant to do this upgrade. Search this forum about all the clutch/flywheel issues with RS models. There are multiple threads on this topic. RS clutches only seem to last 4-6k miles, hence a very expensive and regularly replaceable upgrade for very little benefit.
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#11
Rennlist Member
CRex - thanks for the part numbers!
Thanks to everyone else for all the posts and opinions as well - the parts have been ordered and will hopefully be there soon to be installed - opinions and thoughts to come!
montoya - why early clutch failure? I was under the impression of switching to the 4.0RS PP (bolts as opposed to rivets) would increase it's longevity.
Thanks to everyone else for all the posts and opinions as well - the parts have been ordered and will hopefully be there soon to be installed - opinions and thoughts to come!
montoya - why early clutch failure? I was under the impression of switching to the 4.0RS PP (bolts as opposed to rivets) would increase it's longevity.
#12
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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CRex - thanks for the part numbers!
Thanks to everyone else for all the posts and opinions as well - the parts have been ordered and will hopefully be there soon to be installed - opinions and thoughts to come!
montoya - why early clutch failure? I was under the impression of switching to the 4.0RS PP (bolts as opposed to rivets) would increase it's longevity.
Thanks to everyone else for all the posts and opinions as well - the parts have been ordered and will hopefully be there soon to be installed - opinions and thoughts to come!
montoya - why early clutch failure? I was under the impression of switching to the 4.0RS PP (bolts as opposed to rivets) would increase it's longevity.
I had Premier Sportscar service in Las Vegas do the upgrade on my GT3 RS 3.8 to the 4.0 pressure plate. After speaking with Kent Moore, who is a World Champion technician, and knows the GT3's inside and out, I decided to do it as a preventive step. He showed me the rivets and where they fail on the pressure plate. It's not something you just try to hope not happen.
I am busy going through similar decision process for my 997.1 gt3. I would like to know whether you have installed the new rs 4.0 clutch? would you recommend it?
also, main concern which seems to be discussed with varying opinions is the 4.0 life span. is it really shorter than the normal gt3 setup? if so, that's definitely a choice I would avoid.
thanks
fadi
#13
Nordschleife Master
The car I'm purchasing bucks that trend, assuming that multiple people are reporting clutch failures on 2010+ RS models in such a short period of time. The original clutch lasted over 30k miles and the replacement is still healthy after about 25k more miles. It is a 59k mile 2010 RS and is on its second clutch. I'd hate for people on this forum to think that these clutches are 4-6k mile time bombs.
4-6k track miles and they are pretty worn out