Please help educate me to the finer points of a PPI on a 2010 GT3
#16
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steve-- never mind on barrier. thought you were in Seattle. Dealer is still a good place for the PPI but get a body guy to take a close look. Remove wheel liners and the vent in front of lid. They can spot repairs. If it was fixed right I would not worry about buying a car but I would use it to drive the price down.
#17
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Steve: Barrier Will do a great PPI for the mechanical and such. Ask for Jeff in service. I would also ask for them to get Steve from Queen City Auto Rebuild in Redmond to come there for a body inspection. If you do not want to go to dealer: Collin Cantrell and Chris German Auto are super and on the Eastside. I have had nothing but great results working with all of them with my GT3's. Barrier will have the most experience with something as new as a 10. Would be interesting on the clutch to see what the over revs reveal. I know of PP give up the ghost with money shift.
The car is in the Bay area so I cannot use local dealerships to help. She will be all mine by the time she's up here if I go through with the purchase. Sonnen Porsche will be doing the PPI for me.
The car is being represented as a daily driven car that has been tracked at 2 HPDE days in it's life. Obviously I'm looking towards the PPI to help me assess this since the DME scan should at least reveal some interesting points. I've done a bit of research on the owner and he sponsors some race teams but also has access to race cars, and this car was supposedly left bone stock its entire life and driven to work and back. It does have over 50k miles though, so the appetite for stock tires and brakes could be accounted for (relative to a 10k mile car). I'm eager to see what I'll learn from the PPI of course!
#18
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Steve: maybe offer if PPI passes you buy if it does not he pays for the PPI. I had Ferrari of Seattle agreed when I was looking for a 997 GT3. The car failed and they paid the $600 for the inspection.
#19
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That's an interesting thought Robert, I'll give it some thought. In reality the PPI is just great insurance for me going forward so it's not some kind of huge burden (meaning, if well executed could save me from a LOT of problems later). What do you mean by your definition of having a PPI fail though? In my mind practically no used car is going to have a perfect PPI result if you include everything, so what would constitute an outright failure in your mind?
I'd think something like accident repair/structural issues, too many over-revs and rev limiter hits, or some kind of detectable engine, transmission, or braking (PCCB) issues would qualify for a failure...but curious if you meant something else? Thanks!
I'd think something like accident repair/structural issues, too many over-revs and rev limiter hits, or some kind of detectable engine, transmission, or braking (PCCB) issues would qualify for a failure...but curious if you meant something else? Thanks!