Steve Theodore

Hey guys/gals,

Reasonably long-time member, but definitely more of a lurker around these parts. I understand that this is *THE* place for GT3 owners, so you have my undivided attention!

I dropped off my Turbo for a consignment sale today after being disappointed with the tire kickers and general time wasters that I had to deal with. I'm sure some of you can relate.

At this point I've made an offer on a 2010 GT3 and the car is being scheduled for a PPI in the next couple of weeks. Now obviously I plan to work directly with the dealership who is performing the PPI, but I want to be as well educated as possible to address the urgent points specific to this car. Here are some details in case it helps to guide input/advice:

- High(er) mileage 3.8L motor, well maintained with all service records
- PCCB brakes
- Factory options include nose lift, dynamic engine mounts, carbon seats

Much as when I bought my 996TT 4 years ago, I was pretty nervous to ensure I got a good inspection since it can be such an expensive car to repair. The things that I'm personally nervous about include the PCCB brakes and the fact that the car has higher than average mileage.

Can you give me any other specific tips about things I might want to focus the dealership on? I did chat with SharkWerks on the phone and they were quite helpful about pointing something out specific to the 3.8L where the cams are concerned, but I'm still looking around to find those details online.

I did read this tuning guide already, but it seemed geared more towards upgrading/modifying than just a solid understanding of the points to focus on with a 2010 GT3: http://sharkwerks.com/porsche/porsch...10-2011-a.html

Thanks for your help and guidance. I hope to join the ranks of happy GT3 owners soon.

For now I clearly need to

ChrisF

Congrats on moving into the fold. I would want:

- DME readout.
- complete maint and warranty history
- CPO for sure even if you have to run sale thru dealer to get it
- paint thickness checked.
- check if LSD is gone

Btw, what is higher than avg mileage?these motors are pretty stout. Under 50k should be non issue other than in assessing value

Steve Theodore

Thank you Chris.

It's an exceptional car in that it was used as a daily driver for the past 3 years. Go figure! So the mileage is actually above 50k. However, this is also the reason that I can afford the purchase price of the car in question, and it's a pretty special car overall too.

That being said, I need to proceed with eyes wide open and ensure I feel comfortable moving forward with the purchase. I do appreciate your reply and will add these points to my discussion list for the dealer. The dealer in question doing the PPI will be Sonnen Porsche in Mill Valley, CA (but the car is privately owned, not a Sonnen owned Porsche).

Do you know what the thresholds of getting CPO are? I know age isn't the issue this time around, but mileage certainly could be. Thanks again.

mooty

50k miles
but to CPO, the dealer must own the car.
so you have ot arrange such that dealer buy it, the cpo it, you buy from dealer.

Buddhamonk

Hi Steve,

Could you tell me which dealer has your car on consignment. I might check it out if it's a white 997.

Manny

Steve Theodore

Thank you mooty, I suspect an aftermarket warranty might be my only available option then? That actually does make sense now that I think about it (regarding the term CPO).

Manny, it's a 996TT (2001). Not a 997. Sorry I didn't clarify that. This is a big potential upgrade for me!

Buddhamonk

Some have been successful getting the dealership that does the ppi to buy from the private owner and sell it back to you at a higher price (price of the cpo)

Steve Theodore

That's an interesting strategy for sure, but I might be able to throw that question into the ring. Thanks!

mooty

^ buddhamonk's description is how it's usually done

ChrisF

FWIW, the dealers in LA that I spoke with back in 2010 when I was looking for my car quoted $2.5K for the CPO cert + cost of any consumables (tires, brake pads under 50%) + $2-4K markup for the transaction.

Best of luck with the deal and once you get a car, let's put a meet together. Seems to be a lot of GT's up here.

Spyerx

If you want to go CPO route PM me for name of dealer in Bay Area who will do this. Charge is about $3k for inspection + CPO warranty PLUS any needed repairs to CPO. At the time I talked to them they didn't ask about any points for the transaction, but you may want to budget some $ for their time.

My suggestion would be if you want to investigate CPO have the inspection done at this dealer. Sonnen would not do this type of deal when I talked to them a few weeks ago.

Most of the dealers would rather sell you an aftermarket warranty, they make more on them. But, finding one that would cover this car may be tough, at least for a reasonable price.

Macster

You shouldn't have to focus the dealer on any areas for a PPI. By offering a PPI the dealer (in this case) is saying it knows how to do one and correctly. I mean you are not having the car PPI'd at a Maytag repair shop.

One of the important aspects of a PPI is the inspection focuses on the entire car. It is not a PPI if the report comes back the radiators are dry but misses the fact the engine runs like you know what.

Or the engine sounds like new by the alignment adjustment is all used up trying to get a bent car to track halfway true.

Before you have a PPI done you should if at all possible spend time with the car riding in it and then driving it and in both cases in a variety of situations to get a real sense of the condition of the car and the engine.

If after the test ride/drive you still like the car then give it a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you verify it does. The 111 point CPO check list can be used. But any good used car check out list works. I mean the car is just a used car.

Then and only then if you still like the car and believe you can reach a mutually agreeable deal with the seller then have the car PPI'd.

There are several benefits. One you eliminate cars that are not worth a PPI.

Next the PPI comes *after* the car has been driven, the engine run, and this gives the PPI a better chance of finding any leaks.

Then since you are the last person to drive the car -- ignoring the PPI might drive it some -- the DME reading is as fresh/recent as it can be. The wrong thing to do is find a car, have it PPI'd then wait and then buy the car. This risks having someone in the meantime overrev the engine and essentially render what you and the PPI learned about the car worthless.

Steve Theodore

Thank you very much for the continued feedback, it's quite useful.

I've received the full service history of the car now (via PDF) and it's fairly comprehensive, meaning the car has been to the dealer pretty routinely during its service life. The car has had several visits to the Porsche dealer while under warranty for things such as:

- Exploded clutch, new factory clutch installed (I understand this did happen to early 3.8L cars with some frequency). This happened at 31k miles.
- Lithium-Ion battery issues twice (since replaced with conventional battery)
- Shift **** wore out, replaced
- Clutch pedal switch replacement (twice)
- Replaced front spoiler lip
- Brake pads replaced
- Centerlocks replaced
- Rear muffler replaced after crack found
- Engine lid adjustment
- Taillight adjustment
- 48k official service
- Brake fluid change (numerous times)
- Tires/alignment (numerous times)
- Replace hood release switch
- Evaporative system check and leak fix (after CEL) - twice
- Gas cap replacement

I'll be having Sonnen Porsche perform their standard PPI, but want to focus attention on the condition of the PCCB rotors and will also probably opt for a compression test as I'd love to have that bit of knowledge and don't think it's a standard test on PPI.

Thanks again!

roberga

Steve: Barrier Will do a great PPI for the mechanical and such. Ask for Jeff in service. I would also ask for them to get Steve from Queen City Auto Rebuild in Redmond to come there for a body inspection. If you do not want to go to dealer: Collin Cantrell and Chris German Auto are super and on the Eastside. I have had nothing but great results working with all of them with my GT3's. Barrier will have the most experience with something as new as a 10. Would be interesting on the clutch to see what the over revs reveal. I know of PP give up the ghost with money shift.

kyrocks

Sounds like its been tracked...which isn't a deal breaker.