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First DE in RS with video

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Old 04-16-2013, 03:39 PM
  #31  
Gofishracing
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talking tires !!
Old 04-16-2013, 08:13 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JCL59
On Mid ohio in the wet... Met Johnny Oconnel @ bondaurant in feb, when he heard I was from Ohio he said MO was the slickest track he'd ever driven especially in the wet.

It's my home track also.. Good to know there's more grip at most other tracks. Looks like rain for my first day on fri in the RS with new R6s. Should be fun..
Be gentle!
You mean first track day?
Please let me know! What setup for the R6?

Originally Posted by dantzig
+100

At the end of the afternoon on Sunday, I sat in for a fellow instructor who had to leave early. His C student was super aggressive and completely lost it in turn 1 on the first lap. He tried to downshift when he was already under the bridge. Fortunately, we didn't collect anyone else or hit anything. I gave him exactly that speech!
Pfew, fun moments, I reign them in a lot, but sometimes they just do something stupid unexpectedly! Scrary rides for sure. I love to ride in other cars and it can be very rewarding with the right students, but man sometimes it is a luxury to just drive yourself..
Old 04-16-2013, 08:55 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Be gentle!
You mean first track day?
Please let me know! What setup for the R6?



Pfew, fun moments, I reign them in a lot, but sometimes they just do something stupid unexpectedly! Scrary rides for sure. I love to ride in other cars and it can be very rewarding with the right students, but man sometimes it is a luxury to just drive yourself..
U bet I'm goin easy Tcar... Meant first day in Trakcar 3.1. Did my first DE in 1984 at Nelson's ledges btw. Set up basically the same not sure on exact specs let u know how it feels to the .1 RS. Bought a second set of matching OZs... Good wheel for the $ for starters
Old 04-16-2013, 09:29 PM
  #34  
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Joe, of course I meant first day in 3.1 :-)

I think i remember your guy changed it a bit, If you have not changed it you will need more negative camber in the rear from -1.7 to at least -2.5 and more front sway bar, probably middle or almost full hard..

Look forward to hear how you like it.
I think she will feel soft, comfy with some movement but hangs on, sticking like glue
Old 04-16-2013, 09:36 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dantzig
+100

At the end of the afternoon on Sunday, I sat in for a fellow instructor who had to leave early. His C student was super aggressive and completely lost it in turn 1 on the first lap. He tried to downshift when he was already under the bridge. Fortunately, we didn't collect anyone else or hit anything. I gave him exactly that speech!
I've got a C-student this weekend in an STi, so I'll likely be giving my "over-driving" speech early on.
Old 04-16-2013, 09:51 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AudiOn19s
My preference is somewhat inbetween the two. 6 feet is too far off it in my opinion...I'm probably 3 ft off the curb though. If you use the inside curb on T9 to rotate and shoot the car off the corner you should be able to be full throttle in 3rd from the apex of T9 until you crest the hill, slight lift to set the nose for 10b then a squeeze onto the throttle for a short spirtz to get you to where you need to square up to scrub speed for 11.

That's where it looks like to me you're leaving the most time on the table....though overall everything you're doing is VERY good.

I'm not the fastest guy out there so take my comments at face value.
I prefer this approach as well. For me, being that far down on the track at speed is just scary, and doesn't leave much margin for error. You get oversteer down that far, and there's not much track to gather it up.
Old 04-17-2013, 03:27 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dantzig
The two most difficult turns are the carousel and the keyhole, which open onto the two longest straights on the track.

Jon
So true, the patience and discipline to be properly placed going IN is what yields the benefit coming out. Most folks lose a ton of time either going in or "waiting" on the car to turn in the middle. Completely self-induced.

Nice video.

Trakcar, I could help you like this place...
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:35 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by gt2r
Jon

What kind of video recorder and data loger are you using? With the inbeded infor that you have it is a nice set up. I would be interested in knowing if this is a GPS or hard wired set up

Thanks
You can add a tach lead (included in the TraqSync cable) but the system is very good, very simple and inexpensive, IMO. Now, with the Replay XD HD, that is another HD option. There's a rebate on now for the Traqmate Classic Complete HD (old, monochromatic display setup with everything but the camera) and the TraqDash Complete HD (new touchscreen display, SD card file transfer and built in track database.

No connections other than power required for what you see in the OP video.

Originally Posted by AudiOn19s
6 feet is too far off it in my opinion...I'm probably 3 ft off the curb though. If you use the inside curb on T9 to rotate and shoot the car off the corner you should be able to be full throttle in 3rd from the apex of T9 until you crest the hill, slight lift to set the nose for 10b then a squeeze onto the throttle for a short spirtz to get you to where you need to square up to scrub speed for 11.
Excellent observation and right on with the advice.
Old 04-17-2013, 03:35 PM
  #39  
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Very nice Jon, thanks for sharing
Old 04-17-2013, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ProCoach
So true, the patience and discipline to be properly placed going IN is what yields the benefit coming out. Most folks lose a ton of time either going in or "waiting" on the car to turn in the middle. Completely self-induced.

Nice video.

Trakcar, I could help you like this place...
I lost you at patience and discipline
Old 04-17-2013, 06:30 PM
  #41  
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Lol
Old 04-18-2013, 12:35 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
Joe, of course I meant first day in 3.1 :-)

I think i remember your guy changed it a bit, If you have not changed it you will need more negative camber in the rear from -1.7 to at least -2.5 and more front sway bar, probably middle or almost full hard..

Look forward to hear how you like it.
I think she will feel soft, comfy with some movement but hangs on, sticking like glue
Initial set up for r6 is -2.5 frt and -2.1 rr.. Have to check frt bar setting. Did the M&M btw.. I really think that's the way to go with the side mufflers deleted for track use. Great sound different than a bypass not as loud as the gmg I had previosly. Let you know how it feels initially anyway..
Old 04-18-2013, 09:58 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by JCL59
Initial set up for r6 is -2.5 frt and -2.1 rr.. Have to check frt bar setting. Did the M&M btw.. I really think that's the way to go with the side mufflers deleted for track use. Great sound different than a bypass not as loud as the gmg I had previosly. Let you know how it feels initially anyway..
Not a bad place to start. My friend runs 255/335 R6's on his bone stock .1RS, and says that he gets great tire wear using -2.9 front, -1.9 to -2 rear, and he pushes drives it hard. The .2RS is a bit stiffer, so it will like a little more rear camber, so my guess is you'll be really close on the rear, and you'll end up wanting a bit more up front. Those 255's are actually a 275 section width, so they will likely want -2.8 to -3.

Nice to see one of the many "trakcar's" up in our neck of the woods.

I'm actually testing -2.1 this weekend on 305's, which is the least I've ever gone. Trying to find that sweet spot between tire wear and grip. -2.3 to -2.4 gives slight bias to inside wear, I have a feeling -2.1 to -2.2 will be the ideal range for the 305 to 315 size at Putnam and Mid-O.
Old 04-18-2013, 06:33 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Mvez
I'm actually testing -2.1 this weekend on 305's, which is the least I've ever gone. Trying to find that sweet spot between tire wear and grip. -2.3 to -2.4 gives slight bias to inside wear, I have a feeling -2.1 to -2.2 will be the ideal range for the 305 to 315 size at Putnam and Mid-O.
I find Putnam Park to be much harder on tires than Mid-Ohio.
Old 04-18-2013, 08:13 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Mvez
Not a bad place to start. My friend runs 255/335 R6's on his bone stock .1RS, and says that he gets great tire wear using -2.9 front, -1.9 to -2 rear, and he pushes drives it hard. The .2RS is a bit stiffer, so it will like a little more rear camber, so my guess is you'll be really close on the rear, and you'll end up wanting a bit more up front. Those 255's are actually a 275 section width, so they will likely want -2.8 to -3.

Nice to see one of the many "trakcar's" up in our neck of the woods.

I'm actually testing -2.1 this weekend on 305's, which is the least I've ever gone. Trying to find that sweet spot between tire wear and grip. -2.3 to -2.4 gives slight bias to inside wear, I have a feeling -2.1 to -2.2 will be the ideal range for the 305 to 315 size at Putnam and Mid-O.
Thanks mvez... Good to know that set up is on the passive side. I'm new to r6s so any feedback helps.

Look fwd to meeting everyone over the wknd..


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