Bad wheel wobble above 100mph after damaging my CL hub lock nut
#1
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I had my CL hub lock nuts off for about a week, waiting for tire mounting/etc. I wrapped the hubs in shop toweling, and when I put them back on, the circlip in one of the front hubs must have popped out. I didn't notice it, and put on the hub then torqued it to usual spec. After several laps at the track at normal speed, I noticed a bad wobble above 100mph, and thought maybe my balancing weights had fallen off. I decided to put on my rain wheels/tires, and when I took off the wheel and hub, I found the circlip sticking out of the groove, and the outer part of the flange damaged by the circlip ends. The circlip itself was bent badly, and the groove for the circlip was also gouged and damaged. I bent the circlip back to nearly its original shape, put it back together, and tried a few laps. Still with wobble. Then I took out the circlip so the parts would be flush again, and still the wobble. The part that sits flush in the wheel and makes contact, i.e. the beveled conical surface is not damaged, nor is the inside of the wheel. Not sure why the wobble exists, but am going to just replace the whole CL nut assembly and hope I didn't damage anything. Anyone else ever have t!his? Also, Suncoast sells the red and black, but not the grey CL nuts that my .2 GT3 has. I hope they are available.
#2
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I decided to put on my rain wheels/tires, and when I took off the wheel and hub, I found the circlip sticking out of the groove, and the outer part of the flange damaged by the circlip ends. The circlip itself was bent badly, and the groove for the circlip was also gouged and damaged. I bent the circlip back to nearly its original shape, put it back together, and tried a few laps. Still with wobble. Then I took out the circlip so the parts would be flush again, and still the wobble. The part that sits flush in the wheel and makes contact, i.e. the beveled conical surface is not damaged, nor is the inside of the wheel.
#5
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Sorry, retaining ring may have been a better description. If you take apart the CL hub nut it is what keeps the conical part connected to the nut. Will take pics if I get the piece back, but at the shop now. Agreed, without pics kind of a lame question!
#6
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UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES OPERATE YOUR CAR LIKE THIS...
you or your dealer should probably inspect the hub etc as specified in the sticky thread on CL inspections before you drive it ... esp on track
you or your dealer should probably inspect the hub etc as specified in the sticky thread on CL inspections before you drive it ... esp on track
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#9
Race Director
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Who installed your RSS LCA's?
Do a complete nut and bolt on your car by a qualified race type of shop that has done this work and has the torque values for each connecting piece.
Do a complete nut and bolt on your car by a qualified race type of shop that has done this work and has the torque values for each connecting piece.
#12
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The final story: New CL nuts both sides, left front lower control arm tightened. At track today. Still with bad vibration at speed. Put on rear rain wheels/tires--no vibration or wobble. Guess I lost my wheel weights!