.1 GT3 Clutch Replacement
#16
Race Car
I do not disagree with this but I use the unsprung PP with the LWFW and have no issue with it - you would think it may not be streetable but it works with almost no noticeable difference - there is a tiny bit but it is little. There is far more of an issue with the cup cables than an unsprung PP in my experience.
#17
Rennlist Member
Interesting info here. I was going to try this setup because the clutch in my car only had 5-6k miles on it. In the end I couldn't find anyone that was using an unsprung clutch with the single mass flywheel and I feared chatter with this stup so I upgraded to the proper clutch.
For me though, the upside just doesn't outweigh the unknown downside. I'll install some stiffer tranny bushings for a more direct tranny feel and leave it at that.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
With putting 6000km on the car each year and about 6 track days, what is a fellow to expect from a clutch as far as mileage?
Apples to oranges really but I consider myself to be fairly easy on clutches. Example 2002 TDI Jetta daily driver with ECU program, larger injectors and I am at 350,000 km on original clutch.
The GT3 has 60,000km on this clutch so I would think that is reasonable like for this type of car.
BT
Apples to oranges really but I consider myself to be fairly easy on clutches. Example 2002 TDI Jetta daily driver with ECU program, larger injectors and I am at 350,000 km on original clutch.
The GT3 has 60,000km on this clutch so I would think that is reasonable like for this type of car.
BT
#19
First, I'm not sure you need to drop the engine to replace the clutch. I think you can just lower the engine part way, but I may be wrong. If so, you can't do the coolant lines unless you decide to go all the way. Second, I replaced my clutch at around 40,000 miles, only because I was replacing gears, and it plenty of wear left on it.
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
60,000 km is roughly 40,000 miles so clutch material may be okay. Whenever I track the car I had one thing hanging in the back of my mind, coolant lines and what it may do to me and worse yet what it may do to others behind me. Now with the new Forgeline wheels and new R6s now I will be very cautious to make sure I don't end up with a herniated tire .
Has anyone had a clutch grenade on them?
Another factor will be to see if my CPO warranty will be voided if I pin or weld the coolant fittings.
Has anyone had a clutch grenade on them?
Another factor will be to see if my CPO warranty will be voided if I pin or weld the coolant fittings.
#22
Rennlist Member
Interesting thread. I have 35k miles on my GT3. Heavily tracked. Probably half the miles, maybe more, DE'ing.
Still running the original clutch (knock on wood).
I already have the EVOMS pulley (long story). My thought when the time eventually comes was to just use the factory GT3 clutch and RS flywheel. Setup seems to work really well. No need to reinvent the wheel here.
Still running the original clutch (knock on wood).
I already have the EVOMS pulley (long story). My thought when the time eventually comes was to just use the factory GT3 clutch and RS flywheel. Setup seems to work really well. No need to reinvent the wheel here.
#23
Drifting
44k km, 50+ track days, original clutch. It feels like the pressure plate is getting tired, but the clutch still grabs great and will chirp the tires into 2nd. The extended warranty is up this year, so am thinking of a whole bunch of fun stuff including a 3.9 or 4.0 L conversion.
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Deputydog, I am starting to think the same. Just checked with Suncoast and if the flywheel needs to be changed then I will go with the RS single mass I would think and use the factory GT3 pp and disk as per Mvez's advice.
Still waiting on the dealer to address whether or not my CPO will still be valid if I do the coolant lines.
Will keep you posted.
Brent
Still waiting on the dealer to address whether or not my CPO will still be valid if I do the coolant lines.
Will keep you posted.
Brent